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camnbron

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Everything posted by camnbron

  1. Is this a dual effort with you LA?
  2. As a basic, modified aquaone tank it looks "ok". But you would still need to buy: a return pump skimmer stream(s) live rock fish corals. Plus if the lights are standard, they won't be sufficient for most corals and the hood will need modifying to add more. The sump will be limiting in what size skimmer you can put in it, the prior owner may be able to assist with what skimmer that they used.
  3. Holy moley! Thats a healthy looking system. All you need now is some SPS colonies.
  4. In general for Salt water reef aquariums test kits need to be more accurate. A lot of the generic test kits are not able to provide results accurately to the levels that owners of these types of tanks prefer them to be. Especially in the case of phosphate and nitrate. There is better methods of testing than the titration test kits available at the LFS, but they are more expensive (eg hanna phosphate meter) The preferred brand of test kits in use in NZ are: Salifert, JBL, Red sea. I use JBL, I'd prefer to use salifert but it never seems to be available at the LFS's in Tauranga or Rotorua and there is not an online NZ based shop that sells them. There are other brands but they are either not as accurate or are not as available as the above 3.
  5. Cool, your new fish tank has a little TV for the fish to watch. Very thoughtful Gannet
  6. Yes there is - have a reef tank as your screen saver!
  7. Here you go buddy, Beananimal/herby overflow Have a read of that article. You'd have to scale it down to suit your nano tank, but its do-able. Gannets got that system on his 2 foot cube, looks quite smart.
  8. Best practice for freshwater topup is to to automate it using a suitable pump operated off a level switch or a timer. Its especially important on smaller tanks to keep on top of parameters as in general they tend to be less stable - smaller water volume - hence the recommendation for people starting to have a decent size tank like a 4 footer. With the timer, if you know how much water evaporates each day you can spread the topping up over the day instead of topping up all at once to minimise the risk of causing damage by sudden salinity or temperature change There might need to be seasonal adjustments made a couple of times a year though. With the NSW, you just adjust it to suit what your desired tank parameters are before using it so its all good to go. You can guestimate to some extent, but the parameters in the NSW can be variable depending on what the weather has been doing etc,. The only time I've worried about the temperature of water going into the tank is in the middle of winter when its cold as outside where my NSW barrel is. In that situation I just replace the water in parts - 10% water removed, replace 1/4, monitor temperature in tank, not too cold then repeat process until 10% water replaced.
  9. Anyway... I have 2 current batches of bangaii cardinals in the grow out phase, with another batch being held in the males mouth at the moment.. The more advanced batch of 29 exhibited the Sudden Fright Syndrome behavior a couple of weeks ago when I was cleaning the tank - water change and salinity adjustment. About 10 of them freaked out, went nuts and played dead in the water column for a few seconds before returning to normal. I had been feeding them exclusively BBS, and had been a little lax with the enrichment of the BBS. That with maybe a temperature change may have caused the freak out. All returned to normal and I've been attempting to wean them off BBS and onto other foods since then. For the 1st 6odd weeks after being released by the male, they were in a breeders cage in my reef tank and the first lights to come on over the tank were my T5's which are on are dimmable and mimic sunrise/sunset So for that time I avoided any sudden light change, after that they have been transferred to a grow out tank which has lights switched off a timer - this hasn't caused any negative effects. The second batch of 18ish is currently in the breeders cage in the display again and are doing fine. I don't know how many the male is holding now but his mouth looks more full than the second batch. Losses so far??? I am up to 4 batches including the one the male is holding now. The first batch I suspect died from lack of food. second batch - 30 babies, 1 Dead on release - fed to anenome, 29 in growout tank third batch - 18?? (hard to count), 1 dead on release - fed to goby forth batch - I'll find out in just over 2 weeks :bounce: Thats my experience anyway. If you are looking for more online information, try the International Marine Breeders Forum - MOFIB. It contains a heap of information provided by individuals, plus links to papers and articles that people think may be of assistance to other people trying to breed Marine ornamental fish and invertebrates Hope that helps.
  10. But that link has a pretty cheap price. If you don't want to buy from overseas, your LFS should either have one in stock or will be able to order one in for you. Alternately I have seen refractometers listed on a NZ online store.
  11. What it does Caper is provide you an indication of what the salinity of the water is. Unfortunately they are notorious for being inaccurate. What most people use is a refractometer, which is more expensive (isn't everything), but very accurate.
  12. Maybe you could get your future inlaws to buy it for you as an early wedding present!
  13. camnbron

    seahorses

    No you don't have to spend $2000 to set up a marine tank. It all depends on what you would like to have in your tank and how much work you want to do yourself. Some inhabitants of our tanks require good water quality, a good amount of flow and strong lighting, so we invest in bigger skimmers, bigger pumps and more watts of lighting. My advice is to have a read of the info in the stickies at the top of the section, trawl through the forum, go visit some people with reef tanks. With corals when they are in the right conditions they grow and require continual fragging (pruning), some people sell these coral frags to others.
  14. Sumps aren't really that technical they can appear a little hardcore or intimidating at first but they are very useful. Have a look at the links in the sticky titled Links to reference sites at the top of the saltwater section.
  15. I have purchased a couple of pieces of hardware for a marine tank from people on trademe. Both no longer had tanks running anymore, but theres hope you are not alone!! There are a few people with marine tanks in the Napier/Hastings area, I am aware of a new reefer in the Opotiki area, then theres me in Whakatane and seahorsecrazy in Kawerau. Once you get to Tauranga and Rotorua there are heaps more people.
  16. When the Tunze nanos first were released there were a few reliability issues with the "C" clips One problem was the 4 little tabs that held the clip to the magnet snapped off. Another problem was after a period of time the "C" clip plastic befame brittle and would snap on either side of the central part of the "C" These issues according to Tunze have been resolved. I have had both these problems with my tunze nanos but have been able to obtain replacement parts from the Tunze distributor. Overall they are a good unit.
  17. Good score on the chiller, I thought I was onto a winner until you started bidding against me! :lol:
  18. These are a few brands that are commonly used in NZ for return insump return pumps - Eheim, Laguna, Viaaqua and Aquaone Eheim is quieter end of the scale, Aquaone is the noiser end of the scale. For an overflow system I utilize a full syphon with a durso as a backup. I find it very quiet
  19. I'm tending to be going along the line of not having an excessively large display tank, but it will deninately have more depth (front to back) than my current tank.
  20. Well, it looks like an upgrade is going to happen in the near future. we're about to start building another house on the back of the section - now, if you know how councils work this could take a while - and I have the go ahead to put a tank in an exterior wall. As a way of future planning, the space is going to be where there would have been french doors onto a deck - so my width limitation is 5ft - this way when we move to another house I can just plonk the doors in. The intention is to close in around the tank with a removable structure like a garden shed or similar giving myself enough room for a breeding setup, dosing system, refugium, skimmer and storage of fish stuff. What I am after is pointers, hints, ideas. I intend on plagiarizing parts of systems that I have seen in person or read about on this forum.
  21. camnbron

    Clownfish

    The biosecurity newzealand website has a page called:Ornamental fish and marine invertebrates from all countries It contains all the freshwater and saltwater organisms that are currently allowed to be imported into the country. This link is probably a "sticky" somewhere on the forum.
  22. or it could be heaps of people getting up in the morning and checking the forum before going to school or work. Maybe there were some really interesting threads to read.
  23. Yup like I posted before, that is what Wonderworld in Rotorua are using for their marine quarantine facilities. I do not know what modification work is required to meet the MAF standards but Harold told me on friday that they had passed with flying colours what I understood to be an annual check by MAF. Sound like your dad can probably help you out in regards to the council requirements.
  24. IMO this would be a good idea - I think this is what wonderworld use for their quarantine facility and it is transportable - maybe an easy way for another importer to expand their facilities as it would be modular. It would also mean that if the proposed importing business did not meet expectations then the container could more easily be on sold to somebody else - since it wouldn't be a building on a property. Logically, to me, the container shouldn't attract any interest from the council since it is not a building but a movable container (makes sense to me!!) so could be a cheaper path to take.
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