I dropped the water level to half before i did it. I dont think i will need to drop the water that much to put euro bracing on it. I just need to put a couple clamps accross it whilst it dries..... Im gunna get some glass cut o it tommorow i think.

So how did you go with the installation of the bracing?

Yer middle brace is back on, but clamps are still there until it fully cures. Thanks everyone but obviously people were wrong this time?! :lol:

Thanks

That statement makes me think of the cheese ad.

It takes time, for a tank to break, but one day, it will, and with tragic results.

Not only to the furniure, but to the inhabitants in the tank.

But have you thought of what happens when the tank finally goes??

Glass shards absolutely can go flying, anyone in the way could potentially gets sliced up. Think of an inquisitive baby, tapping at a fish in the tank possibly with it's bottle.

I had a tank 1.2 x .5 x .5, 6mm thick, braced both ends and centre.

Went out to the fish room one morning, years after it was made, to find my prized 125mm silver dollar school all over the floor of the fishroom, the floor was flushed clean with a sediment of gravel now coating it, and the tank shattered, top to bottom front pane.

There were large dangerous shards of glass pieces scattered about.

The only good thing was that I wasn't near it when it went.

I swore I'd never go above 450mm for another 1.2er, and then I'd use the Euro bracing.

You were lucky this time Rogan, you may not be next time.

If you have used the cross bracing as it was before, I'd suggest that you put a 50mm piece under each side of the centre brace, on it's flat, and up against the outside glass, this will double the area of glue holding it.

Also, the centre brace can easily be broken with something dropped on it; to help prevent this, a piece of glass, 50mm wide glued underneath the brace, on edge, front to back, will act as a strong back for it.

The reasoning behind both these, is that if the joint or brace fail while the tank is full, then a huge sudden stress hits the glass, and it will probably fail at a 45o angle from one of the remaining braces.

Alan 104

If the glass was distorted when the brace was on then the brace would have been put on while the tank was distorted with water. I would empty the tank and add euro bracing at least front and back. If you leave the back brace off to install a filter you might as well leave the front one off as well and then the tank has a choice to break in the front or in the back.

Yer you are right with all that info Alan, I am lucky. But why did so many people, Even Warren with all the calculations, say that yes it would be sweet without it, but it wasnt, Obviously it comes down to the chase, and people saying that it will be sweet is just a guide, but you will not know until you try it....

I cant empty the tnak Alanmin because it is full of plants and fish and it is all perfect ATM. I have glued the middle brace back in (it has been sweet with this brace for a while) But still have 'F' clamps accross the tank until the silicone fuly cures. The tank is sitting half empty now until it cures aswel. I will put some other pieces underneath the edges like you said Alan, once it has dried.

Thanks guys

The calculations show it will be fine. The distortion of 1.88mm (1.66mm mentioned before was for 10.41mm glass) is measured 1/3 of the way up the tank. There will be approx 3x this at the top of the tank or about 5.5mm when full. Everything matches the calculations so it should be fine and you will still have a safety factor of about 3.5.

I've never made or used tanks without full top bracing as the bend has always worried me even though the calculations say it's ok.

Have you measured the glass thickness, is it 10mm or is it 8mm? Use good quality calipers and check just to be sure.

Yes the tank is definately 10mm, i just measured with calipers. 6-7mm at the top just seams like way too much, and i dont trust it so have put the middle brace back on for now.

Thanks