caserole

There is nothing wrong with crossing - in fact it is important to out cross a pure strain every 2 or 4 generations( what you cross it to is important ), what matters is that they bred true as in the fry with in reason look like there Parents. There is lots of pure strains around, of cause not all strains are to everyones taste.

A pure strain is a colour type that breeds true, it does not have to be flash by any means let alone by international show standards. Is that what you mean??

I C, I clearly didn't pay much attention to what your had written A. :oops: I have some guppies growing ( 1 month old ) that are a cross between a male Albino gold platinum delta to a tuxedo neon blue type female ( she is heterozygous for the blau gene, so 50% of the fry are too ), which when grown I'll breed to an albino platinum red tail ( the one's that had been in trade and exchange ) This will activate the blau gene nicely and all the males that are carrying the blau will have blue tails - with out red, + 50% of the drop will be albino so I have a good chance of getting plenty of what I want which will be an albino Blau aka albino Tuxedo neon blue, if I breed them together 25% of the spawn will be homozygous for blau, of the 25% the albino fry will be >> Albino Super White, although like all triple recessives they are a weak looking fish. The Albino blau is a stronger looking fish, it's a shame it is impossible to make as a pure strain. The only catch is I don't know how good the tail will be, The albino platinum red tail has an ok tail but not a massive strong tail like the Moscows floating around, if it sucks I'll need to repeat the breeding using the Male tux neon blue ( which is also a moscow and a tail to match ). This will be done by breeding a female albino platinum red tail to him - when I have 1 spare ( which will be with in a week ). That will also make producing more of the albino blau easier and with a large delta tail. Good luck with your goal.

Interesting..... The top pictures are most defiantly triple/quadruple recessive guppies, are they very inbreed or do they had a mutation in them to make them so?? Nicely taken pic's, sharp!

:sml1: :facepalm: I think ever ones done something like that in the past, it still funny thought. Yep move the snails.

Yes, they breed first go.

The fry are growing nicely, there now mini fish but no colour yet. I have lost 2 fry that got squashed against the glass and sponge filter when I was doing a water change. I add the salt for my guppies, the other fish get it as it's in my sumps used for water changes. The baking soda is to stabilise the Ph as my water has next to no buffer and it takes very little waste to turn it acid which can burn the guppies. Yes 20ppm is soft and you want it that way!! or lower. I really don't understand why you are not having any luck with your CPD's you seem to be doing everything right. I bred imported wild caught CPD's in tap water, so go figure?? It would be surprising to find Brigittae in breeding condition in the shops, but yes soft and lightly acidic. If your really keen you could collect rain water for your Brigittae, with your luck I think you should use every trick in the book The Brigittae males do look much brighter in lightly acidic water.

Where do you live???

The bigger fry start hunting and do find them, you can see the white bellies in the pic Posted.

Yes, true they do. On that note Adrienne, The Gold male x Hi-fin Grey female WCMM spawning I have grew very fast once the fry reached 1cm. This was done as u would with fighter fry by keeping the clear bottom tank full of Micro worms 24/7. The oldest fry are now spawning. I don't know how old the x strain is how ever I did make a comment on my goal to create gold hi-fin WCMM in Sophie's WCMM thread, so you could check the time line( the fry I'm now breeding were not even eggs when that comment was made.) Am i right your Gold's were Sophies??

Thanks Alan.

Up Date The fry are growing nicely although still quit small.

Not long as I did it in summer, transferring the moss in Autumn into summer temps in the fish room. I didn't intend the tank to go green, it did this on it's own even thou the tank directly next to it is set up identically .l.. fish plants are the same but not green. I can only put it down to light.

I've 2 x 20lt buckets out size that contain my spare spawning moss and daphnia which is sustained with decomposition of leaf litter, so the water is brown not green. My hi fin white cloud tank has moss from out side ( moss was put inside end of Autumn ), this tank has become very very green and says this way even with regular water changes ( it when green after an addition of a bristlenose). Over the last month and a bit I've noticed just visible micro organismic that accumulate under the light tubes and attract the just free swim fry which by chance makes them easy to scoop out with a jug. I also feed the bugs to rainbow fry even though micro worms work just fine.

I don't know anything about your fish to make any comment, but if you get ride of them I buy them!

Yes I think it is good too, but over stretched noodles ........ :gigl:

Top Hat gromits?? No air stone required.

The first Google image is good the others not so. When I walk into my fish room their spawning tank is directly in front of me but 3.5 meters away. Even though it is shaded I can still see the little male if he's close to the glass. The're worth having a non tank for.

Nop, being a bit( a lot ) hopeful really. The male still has all his colour which is a good sign for more wishful thinking tomorrow morning. Oh by the way if you have not seen this species in the flesh so to speck, the males really are that red - just stunning!!

I was in my fish room this morning and saw what can only described as courting behavior by my Dominate chilly red male towards the only female in the set up ( The set up is identical to my Danio thread ). The tanks shaded so I shone a torch in but couldn't see a thing as there was a little detritus from the spawning moss. http://www.google.co.nz/search?q=borara ... 22&bih=487 I later observed an other male interupting the dominate male so I whipped all but the pair out. As this completely disturbed them I thought I'd go the hole hog and siphoned out the muck (water change ) and checked what I had collected just in case there were a lot of hidden eggs. I found 1 egg, yeah just one :slfg: , I didn't keep it. So I know what I'm doing sort of works, it should have really as it's the same set up I used for Boraras maculatus and Danio Margaritatus. Now we wait ........... It's been 3 hours since the water change ( a life time ), I'll go and see if they've spawned. Man am I impatient, it could take a few weeks :spop:

As soon as they went free swim I added some liquid from the micro worm cultures, this contains yeast and all sizes of micro-worms, so there would be something within their bit size-range. This is why Micro's are so good as a first food. The only question is would they like it??? and can it tell they're eating. Yes is it's working :happy1: , they had little white tummy's when I checked them afternoon.

Cool. :slfg:

I forgot to post yesterday that some were free swimming yesterday afternoon, hopefully the rest are today.

Do you mean anal fin? It's hard to say with out seeing the fish, if the larger males are still a good standard I'd use him. I have 6 to 8 brigittae so I'm fine thanks.

Adrienne I've been using the very same method for my gold and hi-fin white cloud X. The fry are growing so fast feeding lots of microworms ( goal is gold hi-fin white cloud ). No method is full proof, I saw my pure hi-fin wccmm breeding Wednesday last week and eggs were being eaten as they were spawned by an on looker before they feel though the trap. Yes Sophie, don't give up!! The Boraras brigittae are also getting ready to spawn, the dominant males so very chilli red it can see him from the door 3.5 meters away.