cracker

im glad i use jansens!

nice.... :lol:

it wont be a problem though if he has large pieces in the display area.

yeah, shes a cool fish, didnt want to lose her. let me know when the two weeks are up and she has no spots.... I'll grab her then. she needs to be free of visable spots for the experiment. what was the start date? Cheers A. Craig

It will not be any good for marine tanks. It may leach all sorts of garbage including lime, silicates, metals etc. This will/may in turn create massive algae issues. coral sand is the best as it is made of reef components....exactly what is required.

awesome A. Im going to get her soon and put her back in as part of a test procedure. theoretically, the medication should be stopping the "theront" stage. this can be proved by adding her back in....she should not get any spotting. I will keep the thread informed. has she any spots still A?

if you have parasites in your system, the summer peeks will stress the fish a little and will be more likely to be less immune to the parasite than before. in the cooler months the temperature is more stable creating less stress.

agreed....immunity for the fish only lasts about 6 months.

Thanks Cookie, Ive added the second dose today and all fish are still ok. (Not 100% sure about my large female Tomato, I might lose her yet...fingers crossed). I didnt not know enough, or have the product at the time to save these guys and the infections have gone too far. The remaining fish are just purely fighters! As of tomorrow, the spots should be dropping off for their second stage. and the fish will get a break for awhile. then in a few days the tomites will hatch and voila..... Mr Salifert should grab the buggers and kill'em all! We'll soon see........

One for you Reef! I want to be clear on this point. I do not believe Cryptocaryon irritans is always present in our systems. With a strict quarantine protocol, it is possible keep an Ich-free aquarium. I just believe that there have been enough hobbyists who have misused a treatment or utilized an ineffective treatment option, such that they never really fully conquered their initial infestation. Their continuing problems over the course of many months, and the posting of those experiences, seem to be enough to promote this aquarium myth. Cryptocaryon irritans can be eradicated from an infected system with a proven treatment and can be kept out of the system if good quarantine practices are employed. Steven Pro

Look, I didnt start this thread for argumentative bullshit. If you wanna learn something read it, if you dont, just shut up and go to another thread. Im trialling something here that seems good. whether its ICH, MV or a quick kick in the pants i dont care. Some people are intersted and if i can help someone, great. I'm learning shitloads myself from this and WILL work out a solution for ME. Craig

heaps of tanks have been wiped out by whitespot, especially the hotter countries.

its not velvet, but the Salifert deals to this also. i will know the progress of the salifert in 2 or 3 days time... heres hoping.

yip, thats because in nature you cannot remove the cause... in a box you can. FYI 8)

This will take awhile so will do it in stages. Removing one cycle will remove Ich/MV from your system. 1: Marine Ich, (cryptocaryon) and MV, (Marine Velvet), is a marine parasite that feeds on fish tissue and requires 3 other cycles to reproduce. THIS DISEASE IS VERY SERIOUS ONCE FIRMLY ESTABLISHED AND WILL QUICKLY WIPE OUT AN ENTIRE TANK IF NOTHING IS DONE. DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE ITS KILLING POWER. Especially MV. (There are a few ways which I will cover shortly). 1: Salifert has a reefsafe product as you may know called "Stop parasite". This product seems effective for ICH and VELVET parasitic infestations.and comes from a good name. This product must be used at the right time or it may not help. If left too late the damage caused by ICH may create bacterial and fungal infections on the host fish and they will die from this even if you are dosing the product. Marine Velvet is veryt bad and sometimes the symptoms are too fast and will kill overnight. It has personally worked for me and will provide statistical results shortly. 2: Parasites are directly related to temperature. This is why we notice them more in the summer months as the cycle rapidly reproduces when the temps go up. RAISING TEMPERATURES TO ERADICATE HEAVY "ICH" or "MV" IN YOUR TANK WILL PROVE FATAL UNLESS YOU ARE IN THE PROCESS OF TREATMENT. This is what I did and murdered my fish...... :-? IF YOU DO NOT HAVE ANY PRODUCT, KEEP OR DROP YOUR TEMPERATURE TO 24 DEGREES, (SLOWLY), UNTIL YOU GET SOME PRODUCT. (If you cannot get product, cross your fingers and leave at 24 degrees). THIS WILL SLOW DOWN THE CYCLE, GIVING YOU AND THE FISH TIME TO FIGHT IT AND FIND PRODUCT! 3: OPTIONS OF ERADICATION: A: Removal of all your inhabitants rocks and corals/Inverts and treating them. B: Treating the whole tank as I do and relying on Mr Salifert (Large aquariums are a pain in the arse to dismantle the entire aquarium). C: Making sure NSW users are using at least 2 week old collected water, preferably one month. D: Treating all new things going into your tank. ICH or VELVET can be in your tank invisable for months, cycling as per normal with fish that are immune or partially immune. THIS MEANS YOU DO NOT KNOW THE PARASITIC INFECTION IS IN THE TANK/SYSTEM. The fish can be immune and show no signs. the parasites are operating in small cycles and the spots may not be visible. THIS IS WHEN TEMPERATURE, STRESSES AND THE LIKES REDUCES THE IMMUNE SYSTEM OF A FISH AND ALL OF A SUDDEN CANT DEAL WITH THE PARASITE LIKE IT COULD BEFORE. SO NOW IT STARTS TO SHOW WHITESPOTS AS IT CANT KEEP UP WITH FIGHTING THEM OFF. OR you add a new fish that is not immune and they get nailed. THIS IS WHERE YOU KNOW YOUR SYSTEM IS A CARRIER. IF YOU GET THROUGH THE WARMER PERIODS AND STRESSFULL PERIODS WITH NO SIGNS, THEN YOUR TANK IS MORE THAN LIKELY PARASITE FREE. TO KEEP IT THIS WAY, EVERYTHING ADDED TO THE TANK NEEDS SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS. 1: TREATING FISH 2: TREATING CORAL 3: TREATING LIVE ROCK ERADICATION PROCEDURES: 1: REMOVAL OF ALL INHABITANTS: (NOT using SALIFERT) A: take all fish from your display and put them in a temporary tank with skimmer, carbon heater, etc. B: raise temperature to 28-29 degrees and leave tank fishless for at least 28 days, preferably 45 days continuing to maintain your corals as per normal. MV can still be present after 45 days. C: add copper to the temp hospital tank following copper medication instructions and keep all fish here for the full 45 days. DO NOT add any more fish, rocks or coral to this hospital tank. If you have seen no signs of white spot at all for this entire period, you hospital tank should be ICH and VELVET free. if you have seen spots again you will have to dose more copper. Copper doesnt 100% guarantee success if it is MV. Antimalarial medication works better. D: Slowly add fish back into system. (Whitespot should now NEVER show up again as long as you do not add anything to your tank) that is: live coral live rock more fish live sand. inverts. 2: ADDING "THERONT" ATTACKING MEDICATION DIRECTLY TO THE REEF: A: TO BE CONTINUED............ Craig

starting another thread! Lost my small tomato this morning, the stages were too far in for salifert to assist. check out the new thread.

ive done a heap of reading over the past couple of days...and it doesnt matter what fish you have you can successfuly put it in your tank with no issues...just got to do it right. there are definite procedures. i will be doing this from now on.

howdy.... sounds good. my suggestion would be to only use the coral rubble in the small compartment and the caulerpa area. larger coral rocks are better if possible as they can be cleaned easier. you dont need ammo lock, waste of dosh. you dont need filter wool or bioballs or noodles. waste of money and nitrate producers. in the other small compartment you could run phosohate reducing media and carbon. I wouldnt use anything else on the whole system except the LR in the display. thats it!!

this is a mean arse disease once fully in place.

update..... lost my 2 oscellaris clowns in the hospital tank....we wont go there... Flame angel succombed to ICH...DEAD. blue tang and all else seem ok and will probably make it now that the salifert is in place. still a lot of ich in the tank. lost 7 fish in the last week: 1 x watanabe angel, (unknown reason....simply vanished into thin air) 1 x pink skunk clown (ICH) 2 x oscellaris (jumped out of hospital tank and gobbled by puddy tat) 1 x flame (ICH) 1 x banggai (not sure, just a pussy from the start). 1 x kole tang (ICH) still got: 9 x chromis, sweet as 1 x yellow bellied damsel, sweet as 2 x tomatoes covered in ICH 1 x blue tang covered in ICH 2 x yellow tangs covered in ICH 1 x six line wrasse, sweet as 1 x sailfin tang, going great in the hospital tank so far. My flame was one of my first purchases in my original cube tank and he was tough as boots. gutted. :evil: and its not over yet.....

:lol: cool.

talk to drifty. he runs flouros's only.

it seems after as much info as i can get regarding this product that you need to finish the last dose. maybe even a bit longer. otherwise it comes back with avengence and kicks ass. just like what happened to me.

Unbelievable. marine reef tanks are seriously in their own little world.