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kiwiraka

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Everything posted by kiwiraka

  1. Perch are a pest fish and therefore it is illegal to posses live specimens. In New Zealand options are very limited. Goldfish are a possibility (I don't imagine they'd taste very good though) Tropical fish are another possibility, maybe oscars? Another option would be mullet, not sure if this has been attempted yet.
  2. Banded kokopu: 4 x 1.5 feet Bluegill bully: 1.5 x 1 feet Common bully: 2 x 1 feet Common smelt: 4 x 1feet Cran's bully: 2 x 1 feet Dwarf galaxias: 2 x 1 feet Giant bully: 3 x 1 feet Giant kokopu: 4 x 2 feet Inanga: 4 x 1 feet Koaro: 4 x 1.5 feet Koura: 2 x 1 feet Long-fin eel: 6-8 x 3 feet Redfin bully: 2 x 1 maybe upto 2 x 2 for a single territorial male? Short-fin eel: 5 x 2 feet Spotted eel: 6 x 3 feet Torrentfish: 3 x 1 feet Upland bully: 2 x 1 feet What do you think?
  3. Good point, I imagine you'd be correct about Dwarf Galaxias and Bluegills I don't think any of the diadromous galaxiids or smelt should be kept in anything under 4 foot long, smelt and inanga may be alright in three foot but if kept in a tank that short I'd recommend it should also be at least two feet deep (front to back)
  4. I'd say the minimum volume per full-grown fish in a well filtered tank would be... Banded kokopu: 100 Bluegill bully: Maybe 15 litres? Only suitable tank mates would probably be torrent-fish Common bully: 30 litres Common smelt: 30 litres Cran's bully: 20 litres Dwarf galaxias: 20 litres Giant bully: 50 litres Giant kokopu: 200 litres Inanga: 30 litres Koaro: 100 litres Koura: 60 litres Long-fin eel: Maybe 1000 litres Redfin bully: 20 for a female maybe upto fifty for a male for space for his territory Short-fin eel: 600 litres Spotted eel: 800 litres Torrentfish: 60 litres? Upland bully: 20 litres
  5. I would recommend excluding mudfish and shortjaw kokopu to discourage removal from the wild. But good idea, I will add to your list later when I get inside
  6. Mammalian fat is the problem with heart, I imagine feeding heart to fish is like us eating fast-food. The salt will be fine, but I have no idea what the glazing would be... I dont imagine itd be anything too bad though...
  7. !drool: Looks awesome and natural! Incentive for me to do a rescape
  8. I haven't used one. Should easily cope with your tank, you will need a pump or filter to push water through it. The chiller comes with required hose.
  9. I had 4 sliders a few years ago, the males were much more interested in each other than the females
  10. Looking great I agree about the background, but much better than anything I could do good choice in wood though, I'm looking forward to seeing it full of fish
  11. Yes, just set the temperature and the chiller will kick in when the water hits that temp. Although they are much more expensive than heaters. Water is the same as all fish as long as they've adjusted to the parameters. Feeding can be anything from once a week to everyday. They can be fed bugs, raw shrimp/prawn, animal heart and high protein fish food. Not all fish will accept commercial foods and most will take awhile to adjust.
  12. Sounds like it was too warm, native fish stress at temperatures over about 18-20 degrees. Chillers are generally required although bottles of ice can be helpful. Older fish (especially bandeds) usually don't adjust well, generally fish caught under 10cm are alright. Make sure they can't jump out, any other questions just ask
  13. I think there's one or two on Trademe at the moment
  14. Looking forward to seeing this tank finished and stocked, is a nice setup :spop:
  15. They should look like... Well mini-mudfish I guess They are non-diadromous so there wont be any real transformation from young fish to adult. f they're at the actual "fry" stage you have no chance of identification til they grow. As Willyp said, be very careful with mudfish. They're endangered and shouldnt be removed from the wild... Anyway, welcome back EDIT: if they are mudfish I highly suggest investing in a chiller. You don't want to risk it with something as rare as mudfish
  16. It is common for inexperienced males to eat the first spawn or two. Better luck next time
  17. In the rock, it's a doorway to another dimension! And it's being guarded by a giant horned sea beast :cophot: :gopo: :spop:
  18. The eggs should be fine as the male will protect them. But as soon as they hatch there'll be a feeding frenzy. Best way to protect them is to remove them. Will be easiest as eggs. Congratulations on your new inanga, the staff at MTI are great and very helpful
  19. Hi there They definitely will, although collecting a large enough number could be difficult. Are you planning on breeding them? If you have anymore questions just ask
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