Hamstar99

Drag the garden hose in side and poke it up the intake hoses. Fill up the canister till it is coming out the out take and you have blown all the air out. then it should go.

Does this even work? I tryed it once on limestone and it didnt do jack. Figured vinegar was just know where acidic enough? Either way river stones shouldnt alter you water. Limestone, marble etc can help lift your ph. Drift wood can soften it. cheers.

How big is it?. Personally id just go out in the evening when they are all in there and either flyspray it or dump some Carbaryl on it if you have any. Then just clean it up in the morning.

sure does. Just be aware that that stuff is 25% ammonia as apposed to 10% supermarket stuff. So you need to cut down how much you put in. Only dose to 2ppm as well 4ppm seems to stall the process. you will need to dose every few days now until ammonia is converted in 24hrs. Yes your nitrites will be off the chart (this is what all your ammonia is turned to), you will be looking at another few weeks yet to convert your nitrites. You better read this http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/fishless_cycle.php. Also look at the rest of the library. Dr Tim; http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/fishless/fishless.html note the little graph showing your nitrites. cheers

Zeebee did your ammonia come down yet?

Oops, year ignore that recipie for south americans. They would probably be fine with your tap water parameters as long as your nitrites and ammonia are zero. have you looked in this library? http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ Cheers

Get your hardness test kits from your LFS or trademe. Kh is the more important one in my own oppinion as this keeps your Ph stable. Increase your Kh with Baking soda this should also give you a Ph of 8-8.2 (ideal) Increase your Gh with epsom salts. A good start is 1tsp baking soda, 1 tsp epsom salts and 1tsp marine salts or non iodised table salt to give. This is for per 20l of water. Cheers.

i think Zeebee going fine- Just a little patience grasshopper- Its only two weeks today so thats about right anyway.

hopefully hes just pulling the edges off and not getting right into the silicone join. Certainly would want to keep an eye on it.

Yeah my last one took ages. Like 6 weeks. You think its stopped, start doubting yourself, want to start adding crap to speed it up. Then all of a sudden it comes right, literally over night. I think id rather the wait though than risk 2-$300 of fish getting burned.

ok. You dont need to keep adding the ammonia if there is already ammonia in there. Your nitrite will be off the chart for probably at least 2 weeks after you get your ammonia to zero. So theres not really any point testing untill the ammonia is down. Try and keep your Ph around or above 7 if poss. Any lower than 6 and it can slow the bacteria down a little. Give it a few more days. It (the ammonia) usually seems to be doing nothing then drops quite fast down to .25 then zero. once its at zero you can feed the tank back up to 2ppm every couple of days till your nitrite is down. The nitrite takes ages. cheers

bloudy helll!

sweet. nah it was as good as new. he did say if he had any imperfections he would put them on the bottom piece but didn't have to in the end.

Cant use one big pump and split it?

hell thats a lot of pumps. Which project is this for may i ask?

Nah. By recycled i mean re-used -not melted down etc. I did give him the option of using a tinted piece on the bottom but he didn't need to in the end.

If its on trade me it probably a unbranded piece of... with no warranty. Least you'd get your money back off HFF if it didnt do as stated.

I got one similar to this but for around $900. These guys used a bit of recycled glass to keep the price down. I imagine quite a few of the glaziers do. retail for new glass is horrendous at the moment as i found when i was pricing my latest.

check this; http://www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz/detail/view/eheim-1000-compact/m/1199/. the more water you want the bigger they get basically.

should be plenty. Most would probably be around 2000-2500 lph though i think. How small are we talking?

Like 2m of head or a 2m fountain?

What day are you up to now? What is your ammonia reading? What temperature is your water? What is your Ph? Do you have reasonable aeration, surface agitation? These are some variants that can stall, help ammonia conversion. cheers

Yeah i think that is the main reason why you see them on the horizontal. To fit them in the tanks.

is it a solid base or does it just have some cross members supporting the tank. The poly will absorb the difference if its only 1mm. It would be preferable if the base was fully supported as Ryan suggests with something like ply to help spread the load.

I dont think it really matters how you put you heater in the tank. Just make sure it has little water flow around it and is not touching any substrate.