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herefishiefishie

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Everything posted by herefishiefishie

  1. dear oh dear, did they not have a scientific name. I have never heard of a Blue & white zebra?? Most Zebras are aggressive, its just beacause in the wild zebras tend to have larger territories than other cichlids. Frenchy
  2. Yeah I know :oops: but I thought i would try with one, it went well, so added the others. The shop that had them kept them at about 8-8.2 ph. My water isnt that hard though. Its the same as how people keep Tinanti, red forest jewels, lionheads...(all riverine cichlids) with rift lake cichlids. Frenchy
  3. Apart from the odd get out of my way :roll: they are fine. They are in a 4 footer, with Altolamprologus calvus & compressiceps. There are plenty of plants & rocks in the tank. 12cm is a nice size I have only seen one that big. Males get to 18cm I am lead to believe. Frenchy
  4. :evil: :evil: Thats one thing I hate about this industry, companys selling fish they dont have names for, or make up names. Also what are they doing selling cichlids at such a small size. Post a pic up when it gets bigger, at that size to hard for anyone to be 100% sure. Frenchy
  5. :lol: & a tank. These make rabbits look like nuns. I have seen these pair up & breed in shops at 4 cm. Good source of feeders,(the babies)my alto's love them. Frenchy
  6. Chloro B is an anti bacterial. I will get the full name later. Great for use on bacterial infections, even seen tetras with columnaris come good. Frenchy
  7. http://article.dphnet.com/catagory-02.shtml#diseases I find this site to be useful. Keep this one for future references. The other comments about metro ...should work. Frenchy
  8. Try Siamese Algae Eaters they will eat hair algae. frenchy
  9. Has anyone here breed these??? I have five of these ranging from 5cm to 10cm. I have tried reading up on these with conflicting reports. Has anyone here breed them at all???any tips??? Thank You in advance. Frenchy
  10. I have five of these ranging from 5cm to 10cm. I have tried reading up on these with conflicting reports. Has anyone here breed them at all???any tips??? Thank You in advance. Frenchy
  11. A tad hard with that pic. I'd say its a member of the pseudotropheus family. But which one??? Frenchy
  12. I'm with Ira, Uaru, sorry but no, we have about 20 here at work, way different. Frenchy
  13. Can you get a hold of a drug called Chloro B, from vet??? 1 tablet per 20 litres. Frenchy :-?
  14. Well its an american, but what kind??? The stripe is like that of a synspilum. I like the friendly part wait till it grows up. :lol: healthy, nice split caudal fin. will heal easy enough. Frenchy
  15. nice pics, I like the colour in the dimi comp, hard to find good ones now days. Frenchy
  16. You may think that, but no. Neons are very sensitive little buggers. Therefore changes in water will kill these guys..& girls: ph,nitrites,temp..... That is why shops never(shouldn't) :roll: sell them people who are starting a new tank. Frenchy
  17. Where I work is in Brisbane. Brisbane has 2 sources of water. I work close to the border. The majority have good water for fish, slighlt alkaline(ph) & moderate dh hardness. The miniority of Brissie has water that is about 7.5 to 7.8 ph, & very little dh. What happens is that over a period of time the ph drops. (as dh acts as a buffer) We get this problem often. If your mate hasn't changed the water for 3 weeks or more his water ph I bet would of been acidic. :-? 50% water change has shocked your neons(red gills) as water is now alkaline. The other tetras have gone sweet, rainy season lets breed. There is a product here that is good for soft water, conditioning salt, keeps ph stable. The powders are useless. :evil: Frenchy
  18. There are plenty here sorry.. Frenchy :roll:
  19. Most suppliers here practise good habits, >95% of fish are great. Look at aussie, we have sent fish to Cairns, Sydney, Melbourne & Hobart, all different climates, no problems. We have had fish from Melbourne(bagged first thing in the morning) got sent to Sydney by mistake, didnt get to brissie mid arfo next day, good as gold mate.... Frenchy ps; off to cricket today, hope the guys aim up.
  20. Hello M&M how did u go?? Usually treat for a week, or 1 extra dose after spots have disappeared. I wouldn't reccomend that, the net can take the slime coat off the fish, opening them up to infections. A tip, always look at the fish you want to buy, if there are any signs of twitching, spots, sores... stay clear. If tanks are on a system, check out the fish in other tanks. Frenchy
  21. We must be a minority, I'd be checking with your suppliers. We dont med fish on arrival. Also all our tropicals,goldfish are on individual set ups. Frenchy
  22. I'd say your tank is still cycling,(if tank is new) or to many fish in a short period of time. Can people read Robs comments & see if they agree. Get your nitrites & ammonia tested, I bet that this is why you have white spot. The fish are stressed. white spot can be caused by this.What do you others think??? If your nitrites/ammonia are high, (a) do a few water changes over a few days, "about" 30% each time(then get water tested again) (b)dont feed fish for a couple of days. Discus breeders are known to change 50% of water, if water is aged & the same temp, no problems. I know of one discus breeder who changes his water 50% a day, he does feed them 4 to 5 times a day. :roll: Frenchy
  23. never heard of this drug, but the info given by Dan is good. If you turn up the temp, plenty of airation will help. When you turn the temp up oxygen levels in the water decreases. This with the increased metabolism..... :-? Frenchy
  24. How many hours a day do you have the lights on for?? to much light increases algae growth. Excessive Phosphates may be the problem, the thing is plants need phosphate to gow. there will always be some residual algae in a planted tank because it is impossible to keep the water completely phosphate free. The use of chemicals named above are only a short term fix. Add an iron-containing trace element mix, Grow fast-growing plant species that can efficiently extract nutrients, Do not use phosphate buffers to control pH. Use of these buffers may produce phosphate concentrations as high as 100ppm, almost certainly resulting in very impressive algae blooms. the use of agae eaters will help. A good no fuss long term fix is a UV steriliser. Frenchy
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