Jennifer

One thing to keep in mind, those instructions are for a high tech tank. If you have a low tech tank, things will be very different. Also, water circulation, stocking, substrate fertilisers and water hardness play a factor with regard to the dosing schedule.

There are a few people (you know who you are) who I have talked to recently about this stuff, so I just bet they will step forward and answer some of these questions for me. 8)

Answer the following: Dimensions & volume of tank Lighting Substrate Plants Fish stocking Goals - What you want from the tank, amount of time you have to maintain it, approximate budget you want to spend on it

You were using Flourish Comp a week ago...right? Anyway, do a test and tell me what the nitrate levels are in there would ya?

Flourish comprehensive has a small amount of nitrates in it, and phosphates - so that is probably why your green algae is going.

Sure, no problem. I made a new post that starts to explain some of this, click here.

http://aquariumworld.nz/plants/articles/

If you have questions just let me know. I can simplify it a bit for you in terms of dosages and the exact fertilisers that you need to put in. To determine dosages, the main thing to consider is how much light you have. You also need to consider carbon (liquid or CO2) as a nutrient (although with low tech tanks this will take on a very different approach from adding carbon to the tank).

Estimative index dosing. It is Tom Barr's theory about not limiting plant growth through adding excess nutrients to the water column. Can be used for high tech or low tech tanks. I can hook you up with a cheap and very effective fert regime if you like. 8)

The extra iron is helping a lot with those reds and I can see that the nitrates are doing their thing. If you start to see green spot add more phosphate.

Snap! I knew it was that killie. If only I was on here instead of having my arm in the tanks all evening...

Clues! :nilly: Are we talking farming animals or plants? Is there mutualism or symbioses involved? Marine or freshwater?

Faeces are good, shows she is getting something in (must have 'ins' to have 'outs') and that the intestines are at least somewhat clear and working. Keep the food and liquids up. Flushing out the system may be one of the best things you can do right now.

Absolutely, spoon away. If you don't mind modifying your syringe you can widen the tip by sticking a metal skewer or phillips screwdriver in the end and wiggling it around a bit. You can also buy lavage or catheter tip syringes at a pharmacy and can cut the tip off to the point at which the opening is large enough.

:happy2:

Good point, I make that mistake all the time. :lol:

Yes, they could spread the infection. With the stress of moving, that could make it all pop out, if the temp is quite cool, it may not show up for some time. You can remove the infected bristlenose, and that may help minimise the parasites that eventually come from its body but even still there will still be parasites in the tank with the discus. Keep the temp up, increase aeration, keep up with the medicating and it will eventually run its course.

A Damselchomisomthingorother imguessingus

Yes, but only if there is a causative toxin within the digestive tract - something that it had eaten within the last day. Considering how long it had been going on, I wouldn't think it would be of much help. Wouldn't hurt though, as far as I know. That is a good method, but the key is to be quick about it to minimise the stress. One way to do that is to have someone restrain the animal's body (or you can wrap it in a towel - beardie burrito style -and tuck it under your arm with its head in the hand of the same arm). Assuming you are right-handed, point the animal's head toward your right side and place your left hand hand over the head so that your index finger and thumb are on either side of the head/mouth. Use your right hand to move the syringe into place and deposit the food into the mouth. Blob of food, wait a second for it to swallow, repeat two or three times until you have given the desired amount. The whole process should not take more than a minute or so. Get it down right and you will spend very little time struggling - less stress for animal and handler. Small frequent meals.

Good one. That is exactly what I would do. If you find it hard to pry open its mouth for a feed, shout out as I can give you some tips.

Gut load the bug with vegies.

I would follow the directions on the bottle for the first few days. If you have to do water changes to keep water quality up (i.e. if you have ammonia/cycling problems) then just add enough extra medication to treat the volume of water you are adding. For example, treat the entire tank according to directions. If you remove 20 litres in a water change, then add an additional 20 drops (1ml) of medication to treat the new water you are adding.

No problem. If it is organ failure, then the prognosis is not always good so you may be in for a bit of a battle. You never know what can happen though, it is worth a try! :roll: Obligatory Disclaimer: that is just my educated guess, I am no expert. Taking it to the vet for tests would be the best way to narrow down the cause of the problem.

In lieu of hospitalisation, I say the treatment listed on that page is the best way to go.