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Yeah, I've been seriously considering getting something like that. Even though I usually only grab 200 or so liters per trip. Would beat lugging 20L containers 50 feet across the beach...But, that also means I'd need omething like 50+ feet of power cable and 50+ feet of hose...

Their water is a LOT warmer than here.

I just had a thought after I posted that, if the DI media is packed tight enough that it won't settle to one side it shouldn't matter. But if it's relatively loose, so it could settle and leave an open area the water could just flow straight past the media and out the other end. I'll give it a shake tomorrow and see how tightly packed the cannister is.

No, they sink once they're defrosted, it's only the frozen cube of them that floats.

They're not the same thing, they're just in the same ballpark. A ton is 2000 pounds, a tonne is 1000 kilograms 2205 pounds. That's just being pedantic. Wait, I feel like being pedantic...Hehe, So a ton is a unit of force, a tonne is a unit of mass so it's comparing...apples to uhh...Oranges that look and taste like apples. Ok, I'm done. :lol:

Since we're on the subject, would it matter if a DI filter is mounted horizontally instead of vertically? Just because the units won't fit in my stand vertically but WILL fit horizontally. Thought it'd be nice to actually have it in the stand instead of throwing them in a closet when I'm not using it like I am now...

I don't think in a freshwater tank you need to worry much about the phosphates being added. When I feed my big guys bloodworms I defrost it in a glass of water and stir it up simply because if I don't then I end up with a couple fish swallowing a cube of bloodworms each and the rest not getting anything.

Oh, you left it in for 10 weeks, not 3 days, I misunderstood. And yes, I know about curing rock. However, I still stand by what I said. Curing really is for live rock, not dead dried base rock. You curing the rock is essentially letting what is dead and dying die off and leave the living stuff on the rock. You don't have any dying on it, it's ALL dead. So there's no point trying to save any living stuff on the rock. In addition, like I said, most bacteria or animals that did collect on the rock over the 10 weeks would die when you put it in the tank and crank up the temp by 10 degrees or so. If anything you'd need to cure your "Cured" rock before putting it into your tank.

Hey, Pies, you going to be buying more liverock(or baserock) and sand for the new tank? I'm assuming you'll be ordering most of it, I was wondering if we could throw a bit extra of each on for me and maybe save each of us a little shipping? Oh, and since you obviously won't be needing that 34" TV with the new tank and the projector and all, I'll give ya $50 for it. :lol:

Hmmm, I don't see the point. Three days isn't long enough to do much more than get it wet, say you put it in for 3 weeks enough that something might start growing on it most of it would die off when you put it in your tank anyway(unless it's a coldwater tank). Either way, I'd say you're better off if you're worried about debris on it giving it a good spray with a hose and a scrub with a brush.

Why not just raise the sea swirl up a bit That way instead of needing an extra hole it's the outlet that stops the siphon? Or is that not practical with the mounting on it?

I've read of people using aptasia, xenia and macroalgae. Seems complicated.

Hahaha, Ummm...Well, yes, it is grown in a tank hooked up to my sump. That being my main tank. Pretty easy to grow. Take one tank without any real algae at all, add sand from an infested tank and 500 watts of lighting, stir and bake on high for 2-3 weeks... I should hassle Nick about the phosphate absorber he was supposed to have sent me weeks ago. That should help get rid of it.

A few buckets of spa/pool chlorine would be good enough to sterilize heaps of waste water. I think when I read the quarantine requirments that's all they require is you chlorinate it to something like 100 PPM of chlorine? Don't remember the exact number.

Evapowhation? Never heard of it. Is that what happens when you put two drunken teenagers together? I don't think that will be nearly enough to keep the tank cool once it starts getting really warm. Will cool the water in the tub a bit, and shading it will help, but I don't think the temperature in the tub will stay very low, and once it starts to warm up...Well, obviously it won't be able to cool your tank below the temp of the water in the tub. I think it'd work great in cool weather, but in hot weather it won't. I hope it does though, I'm all for cheap cooling systems.

Wait until summer when the air AND ground start to get warm.

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I'd say if they live and thrive in the water you're pretty safe saying they're suitable in a tank.

Good thing we're talking hypothetically, Alan.

Hmmm, How about another pump force feeding the iwaki? If the Iwaki alone can't get the water moving so it can clear itself then two should be able to. If it'sa good sized pump you should end up with more flow too.

Depends on the temperature of your tank and what kinda goldfish. If it's a cool tropical, like 20-22ish, a goldfish will do fine.

How about an anti backflow valve before the inlet on the pump? Or leave it struggling for a little while, it should eventually clear itself, I'd think. Give it 5 minutes or something

Once you've got the roof in all you need is a chair, a TV and a beer fridge...

Garden center, pak&save, Mitre 10, landscaping shops, etc all have it.

I think they eat anything that swims by that they can grab.