Ira

No...BUT I WILL NOW!

Measurements are in the breed standard on the NZKC website Sorry, had to do it... :lol:

And I've had a filter off for 4 hours during a power outage, got up in the morning to find everything in the tank dead. Fortunately there is a huge bacteria INSIDE the tank where it is safe from filters being turned off.

I have some moderate evidence that it does. My big tank had a very thick coarse sand bed. Back when I paid attention to nitrate levels, would slowly drop with just water changes. Then if I went and did a big vacuum and disturbed all the substrate the nitrates would jump to a higher level for a while before the started to slowly drop again. Sounds like what I'd expect in a DSB that's removing nitrates.

Awww, you edited your post so I couldn't ridicule you for saying 3 out of 7 is 50%.

Should have thrown her in. There are more 6 year olds than tigers in the world....

I find it funny that you posted pictures you took at a lion park and the majority of your pictures are not lions.

I think I can be more confident of the math for this one, another idealised case that doesn't account for differences from heat loss, substrate, premature switching off, etc. Say the heater switches on when the temp drops to 25 degrees, off when it hits 26 so we're talking the time required for a 1 degree rise in temperature. Your tank plus sump would have a volume of about 80 liters or 80,000 grams of water. That would take 80,000 calories to raise its temp by 1°C. 300 watts= roughly 258,000 calories per hour. So 80,000/258,000=.31 hours or about 22 minutes. Hardly a strobe light turning staying on that length of time, and in reality once you throw in that it also has to counteract the cooling while heating it's going to be far longer. Like I said, that would be a peak, the average rate would likely be a fraction of that.

Ok...Let's see...If I'm doing this right. We'll do a super simplified case of just taking into account the heat loss through the front, sides and back of the sump and tank because the top and bottoms will be relatively more insulated. The equation is Rate= h*A*Diff Temp h=Heat transfer coefficient A=Surface area Diff temp= obviously the difference in temperature. First we need to find out the heat transfer coefficient of the tank. This is basically the how quickly heat will transfer through the glass to the outside world. and is h= k/x where k is the thermal conductivity of glass(About 1.13w/(m*K)) and x is thickness in meters. We'll use 6mm in this case. That means h= 1.1/.006 h= 183 This is the number of watts lost per square meter per degree temperature difference. Next, we need to calculate the surface area of the tank plus the sump. Everyone should be able to figure this out on their own. So A= .89 square meters Difference in temp is 8 degrees. That leaves us with Rate=183*.89*8 Rate 1303 watts Which...Is a LOT more than I'd expect in practice. I think this will be basically the absolute peak heat loss in this situation before theair against the glass warms up and the temperature difference drops.

The math is difficult to do, experimentally would be much easier. Plug a power meter into the tank, see how much it draws on average over a week. I'm working on figuring out the math for a vague simplified case approximation...If I do I will post it. I'm having trouble finding values...

What's the average temperature of the room and what temperature would you like the tank to be?

Nope, should be surface area, not volume. :lol:

That's why you use cubic neons per liter.

Looks like about 80mmm. Longest I have are about half that. But my one bhut plant probably has somewhere around 2 dozen. All my chillies have survived well, I started them inside under lights in about August. It was probably too cool for them though. Then in a small greenhouse outside around November where they grew MUCH faster. I'm thinking this year I'll set them up under a light inside again, but in maybe June or July and with a heater to keep them nice and warm.

It was pretty mild. It was just a little green one though. Hopefully they heat up as they get bigger and ripen? Pretty much run out of summer this year.

woah, definitely wouldn't pay someone $40-50/hr just to run errands. Something I don't have the knowledge/skill to do myself yeah, But not to run and get groceries. Maybe to change the oil in my car because I always make a huge mess...

Then you have to either yell for someone to bring you some or do the waddle to wherever they're stored...

No. This is of course dependent on the price. If I could get someone to go do all that stuff for $5/week then yes. But I'd expect a realistic price would probably be something more like $15+/hour, in that case...NO!

Depends who you ask, but most phosphate test kits don't measure low enough...So generally if it has a reading you could do with lowering it.

So, basically you're complaining that your bag of crap was full of crap?

What's wrong with that? Having 9 rolls of toilet paper in a cabinet somewhere doesn't do any good when you've just finished pooping and find you don't have any TP. Gotta keep it all in reach.

Here we had a short 1 second powercut then sudden torrential rain and winds and thunder. 7-8 more short powercuts over the next 20 minutes or so then it settled down into moderate wind and rain.

How does the room layout rule out metal halides?

Small tank like that the biggest you could do is probably some african cichlids, they tend to stay fairly small. 400-500 liters. Preferrably more. Always a good idea.

lol, who is Belial?