DonnaM

Responded well to dry docking and Baytril bath

Hi guys, I thought I'd tell you a few of the latest rescue turtle stories. I thought they may be interesting/helpful to people. Ninas Story. Nina was found wandering in someones garden early spring. She was covered in soft spots over head and limbs, but shell was unmarked. Shell had several tissue thin layers of unshed scutes which had gone flakey.

Don't know if its any help, but these guys in UK are pretty useful when it comes to reptile bulbs and how/ what /where etc. I sent an email about a brand of reptile bulb I was wanting to check out for the turts and theres a link to a web site in the reply... now if I can just work out how to transfer that info without losing all this typing :roll: ......The tubes that have proven hazardous, to date, have all been of Chinese manufacture. The Chinese use combinations of glass and phosphors which can allow hazardous, abnormally short-wavelength UVB and UVC through. I tested some Chinese samples a while back, which Chris sent me because he suspected they could be dangerous. He was right. However, Sylvania Reptistar tubes have a very good spectrum. They are ideal in my opinion for use with reptiles. They are made by a German company and are very high quality. I tested one about a year ago and the results were very good. Here is the "Conclusion" from the report I wrote for that lamp - a 24", 18-watt T8 tube: Conclusion These results indicate that this lamp has a spectrum which is very similar to that of sunlight in the UVB and low UVA wavelengths and does not have any significant output at lower wavelengths which are not found in natural sunlight. This is close to the ideal spectral power distribution for the production of vitamin D3 in the skin. This lamp produces UVB in the wavelengths required for vitamin D3 synthesis, but the output is low and even at fairly close range (between 15 and 30cm) never exceeds UV Index 1.0 - that of a heavily overcast sky or relatively deep woodland shade. This lamp is likely to be appropriate for general use in a small vivarium where it can be sited appropriately above the reptile’s basking area. It might be suitable for species which normally live in habitats shaded from intense sunlight. Species which, in the wild, bask in intense sunlight would normally require a higher UVB level at the basking spot, since very prolonged exposure to this lamp would be needed to produce the equivalent ‘dose’ of UVB radiation to that provided by short-term exposure to full tropical or sub-tropical sunlight. The lamp does not produce significant amounts of visible light and the spectrum is discontinuous. In most situations, it would not provide sufficient visible light, on its own, to simulate daylight in a vivarium. Like all UVB fluorescent tubes, it would be best combined with an intense full visible-light spectrum lamp (such as a halogen or metal halide lamp) to produce a basking spot resembling natural sunlight. You definitely want to remove ALL plastic or glass from between lamp and reptile. UVB (which they need to produce vitD3) is completely blocked by almost all ordinary glass and plastics. Some of the light fittings - even ones sold for reptiles!!! - have so-called "transparent" covers which say that they let all the beneficial rays through, but believe me, they don't!! I haven't found a single one which is any good. Something else it's worth knowing, is that the UVB from a tube is strongest towards the middle of the tube and tapers off at the ends. So if you hang one long tube over several tanks, the end tanks will go short.. I don't have a diagram for a Reptistar but the ZooMed Reptisun 5 tube is almost exactly the same. (Actually I believe from looking at the spectrum, that they are the same.... they both come from Germany....) Here is what the beam looks like: (I made these diagrams for a talk I did for the British Chelonia Group last year) Sylvania Reptistar tubes (like all fluorescent tubes) do not produce the same amount of UVB as direct sunlight. As you can see, they produce about the same amount of UVB as you'd get in outdoor shade on a sunny day, if you hang them at about 8 -10 inches above the turtle's back. You can improve this by fitting an aluminium reflector strip behind the tube, so it reflects all the light, including the UV, down towards the turtle... you can almost double the UVB... but although this is better (and I'd recommend doing it), it's still not like real sunshine. If you have species like some tropical Asian turtles that live in leaf litter or mud, and in forest shade, these tubes would be ideal. If you have species that bask in full morning sun, like the American Red-eared-slider turtles so popular in the pet trade here - and Mediterranean or African tortoises that live in dry arid grassland and would get a great deal of sunlight - especially if they are suffering from metabolic bone disorder from insufficient vitamin D3... I would recommend one of two things. First - can you give them real sunshine? Not filtered through glass or plastic of any sort? Outdoor tortoises and terrapins usually get plenty of UVB all summer in the UK, and NZ is mostly at more sunny latitudes than here... Secondly, if they must be indoors - do consider high quality mercury vapour lamps, if you can get some. If only for treating the worst cases of MBD. I don't know what you can get in New Zealand, (Chris will know - maybe he already supplies them?) but I would suggest avoiding anything made in China, and anything with a totally clear glass face. Some of them have dangerous pencil-thin beams of UVB that are far too high. Others produce little UVB at all...I've tested a couple of Australian mercury vapour lamps. The "Oz Bright" lamp from UltimateReptiles.com.au was very poor quality. It was Chinese-made. The UVB beam was little better than from a fluorescent tube. The ReptileUV MegaRay from AnimalAttraction.com.au is a Canadian lamp made for a small but dedicated home-grown company in the USA, and that lamp has always performed best in all the tests on UVB mercury vapour lamps I've ever done. Most turtles that bask in sunlight would do well under a 100W MegaRay lamp hung 12 - 14" above them when basking. With these you get UV Index 5 - 7 (ie. strong mid-morning sun) at the centre of the beam. But you need quite good ventilation and reasonably big tanks because all mercury vapour lamps give off heat as well as light and UVB. Here's what the beam looks like. This was a 60W EB lamp (needs separate ballast box) but the beam is the same with the SB (self-ballasted) lamps. Do write again if I can help further. Best wishes, Frances Baines http://www.uvguide.co.uk -----

As above If the turts are healthy and over a year oldish... you can slowly drop temp to around 22. If a little older they dont really need a heater on these warm summer days. Just check the UVB can get thru directly onto the turts and there is no perspex on the light fitting as it will block out the UV. Also lights not sitting on glass or anything either. Adding an ordinary 40watt light bulb will make the basking area warmer and encourage them to stay there and dry off well. They have nerve endings in their shells like our teeth, so hes possibly just itching the irritated shell scutes under the log. Something they love to do. This pic may give you an idea of the lights over the basking area...(NB this was in winter and the tanks arent usually this populated. Also the stones have been removed as stones are a significant killer of turtles due to impaction :-? ) Would be good to see a pic of your set-up and turtles

Yes mine are black as well The older they are the blacker they become.

I'd say definately red ear sliders. I have about 4 or 5 like that as well....from no lights, sunlight filtered thru glass and filthy water....no not at my place...before they came to me They dont seem to shed like a normal shell either. Others with the rough, thick scute build-up peel alot quicker then these sort of shells. These shells are really hard, smooth and almost like the scutes have all fused together somehow...altho I know they haven't. Otherwise mine seem healthy...just waiting on some normal scute shedding to occur :roll: I wonder how long those poor guys have been in the bath

Yes I've had many arrive with shells like that and variations of it. Keep all the right things happening with the lights and ensure hes basking and drying properly and it will rectify itself. Tho it will just take a bit of time. Also dont try and 'force' the shedding in any way. Its easy to cause a wee nic in those skin layers that you hardly even see and have it set up a nasty ucer under the shell. Good luck !

Any chance of posting a pic? My thinking is yes, just wait, but would be good to see a pic if possible. If you have your lighting right (see care sheet for turtles thread for ideas) and no lid/ humidity etc, I expect it will just take time. Good on you for stopping it possibly having to die a slow miserable death somewhere

:lol: :lol:

Only 5 Carol? Which one of you is on a diet?? :lol: :lol: Whose house is that in Halswell? Unfortunately I'll be working, but you can eat lots of things for me! :lol:

> http://www.happyturtlespub.org/smf/inde ... ic=16305.0 and here it is again, just in case

Thanks Perpin. I redid the link jnniferh... It jumps all over the place when trying to edit... so hopefully will work. The whole link doesnt seem to show in the post...but when I clicked on it, it did take me thru to the web page, so if its still a problem, can you let me know again.

Congratulations...let the fun begin :bounce: :bounce:

Hi Josh, The internal filter would be Ok to start with, but as LA said, you'd need to be pretty strict with your water changes and cleaning out the filter regularly. You'd need to look out for an external filter on sale at some stage and save your $ up in the meantime. If you have everything set, then 'baby alan' is ready for pick-up

Wow I just learnt heaps about geckos...and I don't even have one! Great info. Under the section "Tail" I think there must be a word missing in the last sentence? Is the missing word 'shorter?'

Reptile vets Hornby veterinary clinic, 7 Tower st Christchurch Ph (03) 349 5311 email [email protected] Vet: Ross Blanks ,specialising in turtles. Vet: Pauline, with an interest in other reptiles.

Turtle Rescue and rehoming. Providing -Care for rehomed, neglected and abandoned turtles. -Rehabilitation for your sick or injured turtles. -Turtle 'vacations' while you are an holiday. -Information on turtle care in general. There are currently over 50 turtles in care, with 25 needing to be rehomed. Donna receives no financial help to pay for the upkeep or vet bills of the rescue turtles. For further information, contact Donna at [email protected] or 021 2020 185

Is it Ok to post my details for " Turtle Rescue and rehoming?" email and cell phone on the site? :-?

Common species found in N.Z. RED EARED TERRAPIN. Chrysemys scripta elegans HABITAT: From North America’s Northern states to Mexico. Usually in slow moving streams, ponds and lakes DESCRIPTION: Females up to 30cm long, males smaller. Male with longer tail and long front toe nails. Females can lay up to 15 eggs per clutch approx. every 3 weeks during the breeding season, but N.Z. is too cold for the eggs to naturally hatch. In America they sunbathe on the sides of ponds, as soon as danger nears they slide into the water. Hence their American name of sliders. Diet: Feeder fish, (NB/ Goldfish are considered to be too high in fat for turtles), frozen Hot House turtle food, earthworms , water snails, crickets, aquatic plants such as duckweed, 02 weed, watercress, azolla etc, dry fish (all products by JBL are excellent foods), and turtle pellets. REEVES TURTLE Chinemys reevesi DISTRIBUTION: From southern China, Korea and southern Japan. The Reeves' is a small semi-terrestrial turtle, usually 4 - 5 inches long. DESCRIPTION: The shell has three well defined keels on the carapace, which is usually brown. The tail is quite long, the body is usually grey with yellowish spots and the head has a pattern of stripes. Some Reeves entire body and soft parts might be completely brown or black. DIET: Eats almost anything. Commercially prepared frozen 'hot house' turtle food, JBL products, pellets, feeder fish, earthworms, snails and some aquatic plants as above EASTERN LONG NECK or SNAKE NECK TURTLE. Chelodina longicollis RANGE: The eastern snake-necked turtle, occurs throughout south-eastern and eastern Australia. It is typically found in swamps, lakes, slow moving waterways, creeks and billabongs, sometimes migrating overland during the summer months often being found wandering on overcast days during this time. DESCRIPTION: The long neck which gives it its name can measure over half the shell length which may reach up to 30cm in length with most averaging 20cm. Generally brown/black all over with yellowish markings on plastron. Specimens will emit a strong smelling liquid (called musking), as a means of defence. This, however, ceases as they settle into captivity. Check out the Aussie website AFT ( Australian Freshwater Turtles) for excellent care sheets on the Australian turtle species. BREEDING: Breeding takes place in spring or early summer. Clutch Size may be 8 to 24 eggs with an incubation time of 3 to 4 months. DIET: in the Australian wild includes frogs, tadpoles, small fish, yabbies and crustaceans. In captivity they will feed on Commercially prepared frozen 'hot house' turtle food, small mice, insects and feeder fish. In general they are carnivorous and will readily eat feeder fish, bugs, crickets,daphnia, dragonflies, earwigs, grasshoppers, flies, moths, nymphs and larvae, slaters, water-snails, water boatmen, worms (start a worm farm...great free food) raw fish cut up to bite sized pieces. LIGHTING. As for RES. However snake necks tend to float at the surface of the water rather then climb out onto a basking ramp and so it's important to place the UVB light over the full length of the tank, not just the basking area. They also prefer a natural piece of wood to climb up and bask on rather than a glass ramp. You cant beat natural sunlight and they will thrive in an appropriately set up pond and happily bask on logs near the water. RED EARED SLIDER TERRAPIN The RES originates from America where it lives in deep, mud lined ponds with few rocks. A turtle’s shell is made up of bone covered with a thin layer of skin, which gives the shell its colour. The outer layer of skin is called a scute, is shed once or twice a year and not as tough as it looks. Scutes are easily scratched by minor trauma or prolonged immersion in warm water. Turtles slide off their basking area at high speed and the bigger the turtle, the harder it hits the water. In captivity they often land in shallow water, hitting a rock or tank bottom which can cause minute cracks in their scute. Water gets into these cracks, leading to infection which is not visible under the scute and gradually spreads throughout the turtle. Its not unusual for it to take several years for the turtle to slowly die from the infection. This Ulcerative Shell Disease is preventable with the correct environment. (Information adapted from Mark Feldman's care sheet on the NZ Herp web site.) WATER TEMPERATURE In the wild, the RES lives in deep water where, even in summer, it's always cool a foot or two below the surface. Turtles are cold blooded so regulate their temperature from their environment, moving between sunning area and the layers of warm and cool water. Warm water causes their scutes to swell and soften, like fingernails in a hot bath. When they bask in the sun, their scutes dry and firm back up. If their Water is too warm, they can't bask for long, because they’re already hot. So the scutes can't dry out, but continue to swell and soften leading to White Shell Disease. Warm water can also create a build-up of unshed scutes leading to deformity and irritation. A temperature of 26c is needed for a hatchling. After 1yr, slowly reduce temp (during summer only) to 22C. At approx 2 years of age, a healthy turtle won't need a heater in the summer but a temp around 22-24C is recommended over winter. Change temp slowly. If turtle stops eating or is too lethargic, it’s too cold, so increase the temperature. Prolonged temperature above 28C will lead to rapid, excessive growth and associated organ damage of the turtle. LIGHTING and BASKING Turtles spend half their lives basking in the sun to absorb warmth and UV. The UVB helps the turtle produce Vitamin D which it needs to absorb calcium, develop strong shells and function normally. They need a reptile light AND a heat source such as a reptile heat-lamp in a ceramic clamp lamp 12 hrs daily. The heat source encourages them out of the water to dry their scutes. Use a timer for convenience. Position lights 26 cm to 30 cm away from the turtle and always over the basking area. Often turtles are kept in a warm tank with UV lights sitting on top of a glass lid. The glass filters out nearly all the UV rendering it a waste of time. Lights need to get the necessary UVB and UVA coming from it. If you have a mesh lid over your tank the grid must be larger than 1½ cm to allow the UV through. Sunlight streaming through a window onto your tank is NOT enough, as the UV rays your turtle needs are blocked by the glass. FILTERS Large, external filters can seem expensive, but are the best system to keep your tank clean. Always remove all media from the filter such as carbon. Only use some form of bio-balls and coarse sponge as filter media. (Filter wool is fine but will clog quickly). Ammonia removers, carbon etc quickly loose their ability to work effectively and begin to leach toxins back into the turtle tank which can lead to illness over time. Never underestimate how dirty turtles can be. You need to change up to half your tank water weekly and all your water monthly. Internal filters need weekly cleaning with your water change. External; filters should not need cleaning for up to 3 mths or more depending on size of tank, amount of turtles etc. Place a 'pre-filter' sponge over the intake hose to decrease the waste matter going into your filter. e.g./ cable-tie a coarse sponge around the inlet filter and remove it for cleaning weekly. This stops loads of bio waste getting inside your filter. (NB/some turtles will eat the sponge so you can't use it for those turtles.) Remember that for every poo, turtles do 5 times the amount in wee, so change at least 1/3 to 1/2 of your water every week so they aren’t drinking and swimming in a sewer. Do a full water change every 3 to 4 weeks as well. TANK SIZE Don’t be fooled, turtles grow rapidly and a baby needs a 3 ft tank and maximum swimming space to stay strong and healthy. Adult males need a 4ft (120cm long) tank minimum and females a 6 ft (2 metre) tank. Don’t have a ‘lip or edge’ on basking area as it causes injury. Ramp needs to be deep into the water so turtle can easily climb out to bask and water level MUST be right up to the basking platform to prevent injury as the turtle dives off. Recommendations indicate that turtles need 40 litres of water per 1cm of shell size. The larger the tank, the happier the turtle. Also aquarium stones in tanks are one of the biggest killers of captive turtles. They explore their world by taste and can easily swallow small aquarium stones leading to impaction and death. Any stones in your tank should be larger than the turtles head so they can’t swallow them. Some smooth river rocks a few cm in size can provide interest for your turtle without danger of them swallowing them. A decent sized piece of driftwood creates security for your turtle, provides interest in your tank and turtle can scratch with it, even bite at it without causing injury. Don't have rocks in your tank. They can cause small scratches in the shell which leads to ulcers and shell rot. Many turtles get trapped between rocks and drown. HUMIDITY Lids on tanks are a disaster as they cause a buildup of condensation which can literally rot the skin off the bone. They also lead to respiratory issues such as pneumonia. If you need a protective cover, use a mesh with a gap of 1½ cm to allow UV in and condensation out. Solid Rimu lids look nice, but are endangering the turtle’s health. Cut neat holes through the lid to allow air exchange and prevent your turtle from suffering. Remember never sit your Reptile light on top of glass. OUTSIDE ENVIRONMENT A healthy turtle over 15cm can live outside in a soft environment in the North Island. The South Island poses challenges for hibernating turtles and should only be done if you have a warm, sheltered area for your pond and research the correct way to safely hibernate them. A soft pond environment means either a natural clay bottomed pond or pond-liner over sand or carpet. DO NOT use concrete and avoid any rough rocks. Have water around 60cm or more deep for adult females and ensure there’s nothing the turtle can bang into when it slides into the water. Position your pond for maximum sunlight, as turtles need a sunny basking area with access to shade. Artificial grass, logs, garden or lawn make a suitable basking area. Use vermiculite or a mix of clay and loam or fine soil to provide a suitable egg laying place for your female. For hibernation an ideal is to have mud in the bottom of your pond, 46 cm below the frost line, for them to burrow into. Don’t attempt hibernation without finding out some information about how to go about it successfully first. Barley straw anchored near the bottom of the pond in one end is also great for turtles to hibernate in. (Don't use other types of straw.) FENCING Secure fencing is critical to prevent escapes from a pond. They can squeeze through Small gaps, climb up netting and shrubbery, or dig their way out; particularly a female wanting to lay eggs. I've had turtles scale a 1 metre fence! Use smooth wood or large, natural boulders or plastic netting with an overhang at the top. A fence that the turtle can't see through is best. If they can 'see out', they want to 'get out' and become stressed trying to escape all day. Whatever you choose, remember other animals, children and burglars can also be an issue for your turtles outside so think carefully about where you want to position your pond. FOOD Feeding is one of the most important functions of a turtle owner! Feed an amount of food equal to the size of the turtles empty head. (Feed greens freely). Hatchlings - feed daily. Adults- feed every 2nd day. Remember...turtles live in the water and have a fish based diet, they don't climb out and eat cows! Think green! Turtles need to eat greens! Have plants/greens in tank at all times. An all protein/pellet diet leads to shell deformities and organ damage. Apply 'tough love' to get turtle eating greens Protein = pond snails, worms, insects, pellets, fresh or dried fish, whitebait, ready-made 'wet' turtle foods e.g. 'hot-house' turtle food. Hot house food is a great source of appropriate minerals, calcium and vitamins. You can't beat plenty of live food for any turtles to eat, especially feeder fish. JBL products such as Energil, Classic or Agil and freeze dried crickets from Insect Direct are excellent turtle foods. You can also use Hikari Cichlid Gold fish food for turtles. Daily = O2 weed, watercress, duckweed, water lily leaves, azolla other aquatic plants and dandelion leaves. Occasional carrot sticks, frilly lettuce, mesculin salad or kumara skin can be used if you are unable to source aquatic plants. DON'T feed any form of red meat, processed meats, cabbage, Kale, spinach, silverbeet, rhubarb, beets, celery, broccoli, mince, dog food, raw chicken, salty fish, brussel sprouts or avocado. (Avocado is lethal for reptiles.)

Ok, heres some info on turtles. Some of it is from Livingart and the rest is from a brochure I put out at the pet expo in CHCH so could only contain a small amount of info. Also had photos on it which were very specific to the written content. The description of where turtles come from was adapted from some info I received from Mark Feldman and it is readily available on the herp site in a paper he wrote for that. Feel free to add, subtract and comment

Thanks for the update Heidy Always interestng to hear whats going on