Pies

The wooden airstone is a stupid idea If its not doing anything maybee the pump using to feed it is under-powered? Most skimmers dump air bubbles into the tank. This is one of the major advantages of using a sump! Ever wounderd why so many sump designs have 'baffles' built in? Its to stop the bubbles from the skimmer! All is not losts, there are a few DIY soultions you will be able to apply. Eric Bourneman sais that the Micro Bubbles are not harmfull in anyway so at least its not a problem. As for the skimmer skimming. If its under powered it wont. But it make take a few hrs of even days for it to fire into life. Pies

In the end you are looking for surface area and water flow. I have heard of people being told to use drinking straws cut up, but when tried they have reduced the flow of the water through them too much. This gets worse in 'dirty' tanks that can easily clog them. I would look for some CHEAP bio balls. Often shops that sell marine fish supplies have these very cheap. If you 'HAVE' do use something DIY try the $2 shop and find anything that has some tubing on it and butcher it. A guy in the states uses 'plastic devils pitch forks' were he tanks the long handle and chops them up with a hack saw. Also perhapps try a micture of different thinks of different sizes. I use EHIEM, FLUVAL and some cheapie ones I got with some cheap filter and some siporax and a few bio balls all at the same time. Can't hurt right? Good luck and good purchase, the ECCO filters (I am an Ehiem fan) are very good and should last you a lifetime. Pies

Thanks Desh. Were your ones the same as the ones in my photo? How many times did you need to dose your tank? Did you use single doses or doubble doses or even tribble doses? I understand that the more flatworms the more EXIT is required as more is depleted as more are killed. I don't have that many now, perhapps less than 100 visiable, but I am worried. It seems that everyone has had a different experanve with them... I hope to get some new bits and pieces in a few weeks, so I am not going to dose until the new stuff is in the tank incase it re-introduces them. At that point I am 99% sure I will just go for it. So here is my plan: 1. Syphon out as many as is possilbe 2. Shutdown the sump & Skimmer, then fill the sump it to the brim 3. I will take out about 60L from the display tank 4. Dose the FLATWORM EXIT - single dose calculated at 550 litres (700 less the 60 taken out, less 40 because not filled to the top less 120+ kg rock and sand) 5. Add 1KG of carbon to the plumbing that feeds the sump (ice-cream container with holes drilled in bottom, filter wool and full of carbon with filter wool on top). This way ALL water from the display travels through the carbon 6. Wait for 10 minutes... 6. Syphon out another 120L of water from display (will I see dead ones that should be syhoned out? Do they die and float or explode? 7. Turn on the sump slowly 8. Slowly add the rest of the top off water to make up the 160L I intent to swap out 9. Wait 3 hrs.... Change carbon Thats it what do you think?

Well after the discovery of these little pests about 4 months ago I have been syphoning them out every week or so. I concede, they have me beat... For those that don't know what they are but are reading. Flat Worms or Planaria of this type are a pest. They are photosynthetic (or at least partially) and can be a real problem. Why? Because there number are so great they will out compete coral for light by smothering them. They also are prone to mass die off and release toxin that kill fish and coral in a tank. FLATWORM = B A D. So whats one to do? SALIFERT FLATWORM EXIT here I come. I have it in my hands right now, I am ready to go, my finger is on the trigger. Anyone who had any experance with eradicating these little monsters? Anyone with any advice now is the time to share it, I am listening. Ohhh and I don't want to hear about the natural method. I have Mandarin, Scooter Blenny and Six Line wrassee and they are not interested. I hardly feed my tank as it is, so its not that they are getting their food elsewhere, they are just not interested... The Natural Method is a myth, raw firepower is the only way to go...

Dissagree! Ehiem are far and away the best and if you want a filter to last FOREVER then its no contest. However it can be hard to justify the price of an Ehiem, especially when you may get 2 fluvals or 3 or 4 or 5 'jebo' or other 'kamakoosa' models You can get spare parts for the Fluvals and they are a lot cheaper than the Ehiems, and often come with media too (the Ehiems don't come with any, well the ones i've brought don't). I own both and think if I had to buy another it would probably be a Fluval, half the price. I would NOT buy the cheaper makes (again!). I've tried them several times, and you can ocasionaly find one thats been running for a while, but its less likley. Not many people with Ehiems parked up cause they don't go. Also the cheaper ones just don't always fit together well, rust, are made of brittle palstic, have poor seals etc. The Ehiems and FLuvals have been around for decades and they have their designs sorted. This debate has raged many times but I think its fair to say that Ehiem are by far the best. Fluval are a 'top' brand but are the Toyota compared to the Lexus. The 'Jebo' and other Kamakoosa makes are the Hyundi & Lada. Built to be cheap not build to last. Parts will be hard to come buy, especially as importers change brands over and again to find cheaper prod0ucts or as tiwan companies change. Cancel that last statement, Fluval are Toyota, Ehiem are gold plated BMWs with diamond encrusted mag wheels Good luck Pies

I wish the calustrea in my tank looked that nice! I think my tank is to brightly lit for it. I have 3 pieces and none are doing particulary well. From my experance the Pavona likes strong indirect light and med-strong current. I have 2 pieces, the last piece I got was brown when it arrived, its looking sweet now: More pics! Pies

Yep thats right but they ain't a fish. So you get too pick another animal for that. They do however taste like Squid I love the cuttle fish. Any dive in which a cuttle fish is present is a highlight, they are smart, often they will mimic your movements, swim right up to you but NEVER allow you to touch them. Very inquisitive. They change colour and pattern all the time too. Sometimes several times a second. Spellbinding.

That clam looks very nice, i'd love to get a nice clam myself, my 2 are very dull. Yeah no problems on fragging that coral. I have 2 very nice purple acroporas so you should be able to get a piece of each, just have to wait a few months for a little more growth. Montipora capricornis is the monti I ment: http://www.frags.org/memberfragdetails.php?fid=264 Pies

OK here I go. IRA thats a cuttlefish, they can get huge. Its really a squid. Cuttle fish are considered to be very intelligent, more intelligent than any other invert. I have seen dozens in the wild. I am sure their are different flaovors, many of the onnes I have seen have been over 3ft in length! Very pretty, changing colour several times in a second. Often pet shots sell cuttle fish for birds to nibble on, long white beak shaped things. Layton. Morish Idol is indeed a very pretty fish. One of the nicest fish for marine tanks, no doubt. I agree with your comments about not having a suitable tank to keep them in however they are considered difficult and picky feeders. May expamples of them feeding fine in one tank, being trasported just a few minutes away and never eating again. The banner fish are not as 'nice' as the Idols, but they are more hardy and many species are reef safe. The one in your tank looks great from the photos you posted. Understand though that they are NOT reef safe. They will without a doubt feed on coral polyps and consume soft corals. There are dozens of accounts of this on ultimatereef and reefcentral. Often smaller idols are find for several months, eating nori and hand feeding from their owners. Then one day they start on corals and thats the end of it, coral eaters for life. I have yet to read of anyone keeping one in a reef tank without coral predation. They will also consume the flesh from LPS corals. This is a picture of my partner Jane with a banner fish Here is a morish idol in the wild Pies

Interesting as my clowns have also adopted a Sacrophyton for a host too. As has my Bi-colour blenny... And 2 Hawkfish... Its getting a little crowded I have 2 pink seriatoporas and could easily frag a piece if you were interested. I have about 7 species of Acropora, always looking for more. 2 are purple, neither are very big, but I am sure in a few months I can hook you up. Also have one metellic green. You are more than welcome to small frags of what I have. If you get a chance to find any nice coloured (infact any non-brown) Montipora capiella i'd be very interested in a piece. If your in Wellington or know someone who is i'd be happy to chuck some frags your way. Look foward to seeing more pics! Pies

Tank looks good! I too like the 2 'structures' approach, much better that the 'wall of rock' that we all seem to end up with. Good camera choice. As Steve said, I went through quite a lot of debate of the G5 and the C5050 before settling on the Olympus. I'd love to see an in focus 'higer res' photo of your tank, corals structures. I have mucho bandwith, so send them via email if you worried about posting some high res monsters. Ohhhh and I'd be keen to hear anything you have to say about Anemone keeping (I assume thats an anemone with the clowns?). I just got a H. Magnifica and have no real idea what I am doing. Hope it doesn't eat all my fish Nice tank. More!

Lets see some more pics! Here is my tank as of tonight: Pies

Caryl As you know I use a pre drilled tank, with sump for my marines. Ira has seen it, as have many others. If you have questions etc just yell out, I can take photos and send them through. Leaks are the biggest concern, but can aslo be easily avoided. I like the sump becase using gravity is great, as its 'free' source to power many different pieces of equipment. I am looking at a new freshwater tank for Jane & I. It will be a modest 5ft tank. It will almost definatly have a sump. My biggest concern is leaking and over flowing. With marines, its different. There are no Java fern leaves to block my weirs. And this is another problem, depending on the fish, the weirs will have to have very thin combs attached to them. This will restrict water flow considerably. Something else to consider with a sump is noise. They can be noisey, as the water system is not 'closed' noise escapes. Doesn't sound like a big deal but I know of several people who have torn down their tanks because of the noise (I think the really annoying noise was comming from their wifes but thats a different subject). Another thing to think about is that external filters take their water from the bottom of the tank, a weir takes it from the top. Waste sits at the bottom. Now this can be relicated by using a Syphon. As far as I am concerned using Syphons to circulate water from tank to sump is for suicide pilots only, I am not playing that game. Their are way around it, but I can point you to many disasters, far to may to make it a good move. So it seems to me that the weir is the biggest challence. If you keeping large fish then its not a problem, for smaller fish it will require some form of 'ghetto action' I suspect. Using a prefilter spounge over the weir combs for example. I would use gravity to drop onto a tricle filter. Siporax/bio ball/efi strat combo with a easy clean plate and space for bags of carbon and Rowa-Phos. Then into a sump containing 1 heater (I have never needed more than 1) and lots more bio/balls/noodles etc. If I was going to also use a canister filter they would all run in this chamber. Then some baffles to remove bubbles and trap any more gunge, then return it to the tank. I would probable return the water at the bottom of the tank, aimed at an angle along the back at the ground. Stiring up anything settling and forcing it into the water to get filtered (it has to be suspended to flow through the weir as we will take water from the surface not from bellow the surface). I would love to know what you decide to do. Mark

Brown algae is almost certanly Diatom. If the tank has only been running for 1 month, than a little algae is just part of the cycle and even though its ugly their is little to be done. My tank has 0 algae - Regular water changes (10% a fortnight) Phostphate removing resin (phos-ban, Rowa-Phos, Saliftert Phosphate Killer) Use of correct spectrum lighting Water changes have been done to death, you will know if your not doing them enough Phosphate removal is a key, silicates and phosphates feed algae. These resins are great value as they last forever (that is they last until completely depleted but don't expire). Lighting. The use of impropper specrtum lighting is going to cause algae also, esp diatom. You should be using lighting between 6000-6500 Kelvins. Lighting spectrum falls over time also, hence the reason to replace bulbs regulary. 9 months is the accpeted average. Just because they don't look different doesn't mean they havn't shifted. I have 5 tubes on my tank. I replace one every 2 months, that way it spreads the cost and keep me honest. Tubes between $10 - $20 ea. I think its most likley they you tank is just cycling, or in post cycle stages. Adding algae eating fish, as far as I am concerned, does not resolve your algae problem, it reduces the algae, but the problem remains. Good luck Pies

Ahem, thats Kalkwasser... [not often I spot spelling mistakes] Its German: Kalk = Lime Wasser = Water

All back up and available...

www.homereef.co.nz is unavailable. I am using Netware 6.5 NDS 8.5 and MS AD 2000, the X-400 (dirxml) connector is not authenticating from NDS to AD. Should have it sorted by lunch today. Have good fun in aussie. Let me know what you think of the stores. What digital camera you looking at? Cheers Pies

momma

1.028 not 1.28 for SG. Here is a tip, don't leave they hydrometer in the tank, unless you want to covered in algae. And we are talking about marine alage, it doen't just wipe off... Don't change the SG more than .0005 a day, it can stress any animals present and can cause die off of bacterria. 28 degrees seams VERY hot for a tank with no heater. I can only assume that you have added one. Most people keep their tanks between 24-26 degrees, and are unhappy when it reaches 28+. If your tank is reaching 28+ buy a chiller. I feel VERY sorry for that fish, and any other animal you have added to the tank. Taken from the wild, introduced into a tank that had been setup that day, temprature is then raised to be twice as high as it should be, specific gravity is fluctuated. I assume it is also going to be fighting overfeeding, amonia, nitrite and nitrates all in high concentrations. Ira, you said you were going to run it as a coldwater tank to cycle for many months and now your running your tank 4 degrees warmer than my tank! Turn down the heater. I did offer to get you a Salifert test kit for Amonia. Take that fish back to the wild, it can't survive the tank conditions you are providing it, what you are doing to it is cruel. Just because you didn't pay for it, does't give you the right to torture it. Remember if your adding tap water (in fact any non filtered water) you are adding nutrients and phosphates into the water. These will fuel alage blooms and cause more instability to your water paramaters. Mark

Its very nice, frag me a bit and send it down bro What colout is it? Yellow, green or brown? Bit hard to tell. Looks like it might have pink tips though. Pies

Does anyone know where I can get calibration fluid for an electronic PH monitor? I think I need 2, 7 & 9. Cheers Mark

Wiggy! Nice effort on the clownfish eggs. Now breed me some clowns. More pics please!

Nice to see a tank not in the normal dimentions. I would love for my next tank (marine of course) to be L shaped. I think I would do mine the other way around though, that is you look 'in' the L if you know what I mean? Anyway good effort.

I run a DSB in my sump. Nitrates are 0.

Just something to note about Nitrate and water changes: If you have 100ppm nitrate and you want to reduce this to 1.5ppm it will take 16 25% water changes to accomplish this. Or 6 50% water changes. This assumes that no Nitrate is being re-introduced by the water change and that no more nitrate increase during the period between water changes. The math is published. Warrens comments are correct in that getting to the source of the Nitrates is important and avoid introducing them. Marine tanks & nitrate. The plenum 'technology' has been abanded for a DSB (Deep Sand Bed), similar principal without the plenum plate. The plenum needs to be so big (large surface area) that its impractical for most systems. Doesn't mean you can't have one, it just won't do anything benificial. You can now buy/build liquidosed nitrate filters that use a biologically active media that is slowly depleted as nitrates are reduced. Reef runs one on his tank, I also have a friend that runs one on a marine tank in Invercargil. They don't work in freshwater. Nitrate is more of a problem in reef tanks and reducing it to 0 is important for sensile invertibrate health and growth. I run a high load, heavly planted freshwater tank, and my nitrates also creep up. Using RO/DI water systems is probably the best. I have measured my tap water and its about 30ppm Nitrate, which doesn't help. I do big water changes often, run lots of biological filteration and hope for the best now though Pies