Interfecus

Yes, it seems to come and go depending on traffic levels. This is getting quite annoying.

Thankyou, hopefully it will work properly this time. It's quite odd how they claim 99.9% uptime but at best so far I've had 60 to 70%. Anyway, It seems that if it works at all it works quite well.

Uhhh, just as I say that they free webhost goes down. What was that they said about 99.9% uptime even for free plans?

Hi all. If anybody noticed before I did that the KMAC website was completely stuffed by the banners the free webhost decided to add, the problem has now been resolved. We now have the website hosted at http://www.kmac.5gigs.com. This is also a free host so we may have poor speed in accessing the site, but at least the website itself looks OK. This website has been updated a bit and now includes a forum for club-specific issues. This includes a forum for discussing the newsletter and giving ideas, a member polls area that KMAC members can vote in, and general discussion areas. Most of the forum is open to the public but we have a couple of fora available only to KMAC members for any issues that might require such a restriction. Cees, please could you update our website address? The old one is completely stuffed, with big ugly banners stuck in every frame :evil: . I guess it's only what's to be expected with free hosts. Oh, and I should actually be able to come to the next meeting . I'll see you all tomorrow.

I'm here, and I'm not hard to get hold of! I check my email ([email protected]) daily. The key thing at the moment is getting a current list of species (rather than the one on the website which is several years out of date) and polishing the interface.

Where are you????

Of course there's one way to get more heat into your tanks than energy you expend and that's to take that heat from elsewhere. If you're willing to spend quite a bit at first, you can get a heat pump system. Even in winter they manage to be more efficient than regular heating. The other step to reduce heating bills is to reduce heat loss by adding better insulation. If you have all your tanks on polystyrene bases, have them well covered to reduce evaporation, and stick polystyrene sheets to the back and sides then you'll cut your heat loss quite a bit quite cheaply. This is not, however, suitable if you have a space heater.

I always use dechlorinators. I figure they can't be more harmful than chlorine and I can't spare the space to leave water out for any length of time.

As Caryl said, you don't want pics to be the full size of the screen or they tend to take too long to download. For full screen viewing, 640 by 480 is sufficient. If you want to post large pics here, I suggest you create a smaller thumbnail linked to the full-size image. This lets people view samples of all your pics in advance and decide which ones they want to spend the time downloading and which ones they want to see first.

Sorry guys, the system opened for a while but then closed to test for bugs. It should be up and running properly in a few weeks once all the bugs have been sorted out (we hope) and several confusing aspects have been clarified. If you would like to help with the testing (no serious use yet) please send me a PM or email and I'll give you a password to get in. For those who had access and now don't, please send me an email if you don't get one from me to get access again.

The NZKA Killifish Exchange is now up for testing. It needs a lot of work before it'll look nice, but the basics are there. Feel free to have a look around, register as a user, and test it out. Go to http://nzka.fnzas.org.nz Click on "Killifish Exchange" on the left This is a service designed to aid the exchange of killifish, both as eggs and grown fish, by providing a place to advertise them. This exchange is based on the principle on swapping fish and will hopefully allow killies to spread more easily throughout the country and reduce the loss of species. If anybody would like to assist with the remaining work such as creating a set of buttons rather than those ugly text links then the help would be appreciated. Any suggestions for improvements, reports of bugs, or general ideas would be much appreciated.

Java moss can survive practically anything. I had some living outside in a large tub of water with nothing else and it survived fine. I drained the tub a few months ago by punching holes in the sides, several centimetres above the bottom of the bin. The container now consists of several centimetres of thick wet mud in the bottom. The java moss is still alive! It's growing out of the mud on the bottom and covers pretty much the entire surface. It looks just like a moss when growing out in the air (presumably where the name comes from). I also have java moss growing on top of an old heater in one of my tanks where the top has to be out of the water. The java moss just has some trailing strands in the water which collect moisture and the rest is pretty much entirely out of the water. As long as it has access to some supply of water and some light java moss should be fine pretty much anywhere.

I'll bring some to the meeting on Wednesday. See you then.

Inside NZ there are no restrictions on living hand luggage. It's only illegal to bring living things into the country from outside. To avoid the x-ray scanners (if they have them), open the container and request a manual inspection. The radiation could be harmful to living creatures.

I'm in Karori and have plenty of java moss at the moment. PM me with your phone number and we can arrange to meet up.

Here's my view: If your tank is well aerated then a volume estimate is usually better; if it isn't aerated then the lower of the two is the one to use.

It's great to see more members . For other Kapi-Mana members, I am still alive! I'm afraid I forgot the last meeting despite being reminded by Kevin the previous day. With exams things have been very chaotic. I WILL get Waterlog out this month. The problem last month was that it was simply impossible to fill in the time I had.

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I would suggest glass too. Be VERY careful about chemicals that may be present on the glass when you get it. Wash it before you put it in and wipe it thoroughly again after the glue has cured. I don't know what experience you have with frogs, so if you already have quite a bit of experience just skip the rest of this. With frogs you have to be careful to avoid any cleansing agents, fertilisers (including fertiliser coming in in the soil of plant roots), paints, soap or chlorine in the tank. Unless you know for sure, treat everything as if it is deadly to them. Frogs are incredibly sensitive to many common household chemicals. Also avoid sharp edges or rough metal mesh. Having said this, don't go over the top. You don't need to sterilise the soil. You don't have to boil a stick before you put it in like many people suggest. Some people seem to keep their frogs in a sterile environment, but for most frogs you're wasting your time for no benefit if you go overboard. I personally put a layer of rinsed gravel from the garden centre on the bottom of the tank then covered it with soil from the garden, which hasn't been fertilised within living memory. I have 5 young whistling tree frogs in an 80L all-glass terrarium and grow things like ferns, mosses, a liverwort, a hornwort (NOT the flowering plant species which is banned in NZ, I mean 'hornwort' as in one of the whole family of primitive plants), and a few other moisture-loving plants. I have a glass lid and used two thick strips of soft plastic mesh to prevent them from escaping through the corner holes of the lid. The tank is lit with two 18W fluorescent power-saver bulbs in a DIY light fitting. So far this setup has been very successful. Good luck with your frog-keeping.

Cool, I was adding extra water to it since that was how I originally got mine but I'll try again without.

I've been trying to work out how to post some but can't find bags that won't leak :evil: .

I heard that they hate most fertilisers so I grabbed a bag of organic potting mix for mine. I have them in a large pot designed for trees and shrubs, filled part-way with the potting mix. They also have some moist bread under a clear plastic container lid weighted down by a rock. The whole thing is under cover outside. I live in Karori so once the population has built up a bit I could give you a small starter.

The ads on this page are funny. Do any of you have tapeworms? Planaria are scavengers and shouldn't harm your fish.

I hope you just said that as a simplification. The reason for relying on this would be because of relative clarity of these features in different sexes. Genetically an equal contribution for all traits must come from both parents.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/3009170.stm is quite good. The one about genetically modified sperm being used to produce an organism (zebra danio) is also interesting.