ryanjury

Oh that is what your talking about I would just goto bunnings and buy some 13mm plumbing gear and make yourself a spray bar or put an angle on it so it is spraying across the tank rather than straight down..

You can also freeze the fish, apparently they shut down slowly and die but a good solid whack on the concrete does a good job

I call the ones that I use rocks as they seem to work quite well

Yeah I guess a 120 x 40 x 30cm tank would be fine for an oscar

An oscar in a 150L tank? Yeah they are definitely great at disposing of culls and have personality's but a 150L tank is probably not a good long term home for one

You could do a colony of peacocks in a 150L tank Maybe add some dems too..

P44 is a guy Although I have heard disturbing stories about drag but we won't go there.. Sounds like some good advice on the fry and raising them, in a mature tank they will find stuff to pick at when they are younger anyway but java moss is always a great place to start Good luck and keep us posted, I hope your female is a good mum and not an egg eater..

I would say you could only do a colony of brichardi/pulchers(daffodil) or jullies as they occupy the same space and you don't have much of it. The brichardi are pretty cool as these guys breed in groups and all the siblings work together to raise subsequent batches of fry. Or you could do a pair of jullies in there, the jullies are a bit like the brichardi in that older fry wont eat new ones but the parents can start getting a little snotty at the fry when they get to around 1" one (which is convenient as this is when they are ready for sale) so it is best to remove them then.

I reckon all black back ground and rocks and sand with some bright white and blue lighting.. IMO the fish stand out and colour up alot more over darker substrate. And get some yellows/dems if you want marine like colours with the blue bulbs they glow, I have had people mistake them for marine fish plenty of times in my fishroom Watch your ice blues in that setup males can get very agro and give the other fish a very hard time, and ultimately your tank would be too small for a colony of adult frontosa it might be ok for a male but he will most likely get big enough to eat your yellows and things like that of course that is probably 2-3yrs down the track from when you get them if you get them from a breeder. This guy here breeds and sell frontosa fry cheap in Auckland if you did decide to proceed with them. http://www.fishkeepers.co.nz/forums/vie ... =11&t=3005

It really depends what cichlids you plan to keep in it How big is the tank?

Cool good work There is always the risk of other males slipping in and having a go when they breed in mixed tanks, are there any other zebras in your tank? Are you planning on catching and stripping the female if she goes full term?

Wow they look like little apistos already Well done! Have you had any luck breeding them again?

Sweet! I would love some of them Are they in a breeding or mixed tank?

I have kept africans in all manner of water conditions and sold and shipped them around the country and not had issues like what you have I would say it is just aggression, the fish will probably get over being skittish in time or add some swordtails or barbs or something to give them confidence. 26ish is good for africans, usual story though they will adapt to anything at lower temps they will eat less grow slower and live longer, and higher temps they will eat more grow faster and have shorter lives. You could try a colony of brichardi or pair of jullies or something similar in that sized tank, maybe even some shellies but it is not really suitable for the mbuna. I wouldn't bother with salt it is not going to magically cheer the fish up.

lol that would be funny.. I had assumed due to availability at the moment they were agassizi, but you can get double/tripple red cockatoos as well

So are you going to drill the tank and run an overflow pipe down? Or divide off a corner and run a durso? You mention fitting a box in does this mean you are going to try an overflow box and siphon type system? lol fair enough, just a sump on a 90L tank is a fair bit of effort when you could just pick up an external or even internal quite cheaply and use it. How are ember tetras in flow? I think they should be ok but it might be worth checking out, also if you tried java moss in there with that flow rate you might just end up with it all blocking your overflow as it tends to get blown around a bit and block filters up.

I would be interested to see photos of this fibreglass/glass tank How thick is the glass? I would be worried about how strong it is being 80cm tall.

Firenz and smidey are spot on here the tank is too small those 620T although they hold a bit of water don't actually have a footprint much bigger than a 2ft tank and that is what most cichlids need to have lots of to establish territories and hide if they are getting a hard time... Yellows are more likely to work in this smaller tank but you would need to have 1m and multiple females and it will be very hard on them, I would recommend a reasonably big 3ft minimum for yellows. The zebras (if they are zebras) you have got need to go back before they grow up and take over the tank, most zebras are pretty nasty and shouldn't really be kept in anything smaller than a 4ft tank once they are a reasonable size. The fish that was cowering in the top corner had probably been beaten/chased/harassed to within an inch of its life and had nowhere else to hide so it went as far away from where the fish that was beating it up was. You always have to be worried when a fish that seeks refuge in rocks is hiding in the top corner of the tank. How are the fish looking today?

I guess it is really hard to tell, the loss of control of swimming suggests a swim bladder problem (like you suggested) but I don't think this usually occurs with parasites especially if the fish are not showing any other symptoms typical of parasites. I would still be going by something bacterial wiping them out, I would be tempted to try a massive water change and a heap of salt as a first course of action? While the injuries are not caused by aggression housing lots of aggressive fish together can cause stress which leads to disease and other issues down the track..

I would say she hasn't got eggs you will notice her change colour and stay coloured up and she wont tolerate the male at all, and yeah she will hang around and protect them..

With red steaks in the body and patches it could be some sort of bacterial type infection? What made you suggest a internal parasite were the fish off their food or fading away at all? I am wondering how many fish and what sized tank they were in, it is possible something has set in with the stress of fish being overcrowded the zebras especially can be quite hard on other tank mates at times.. Did he treat with drontal (has prazi and some other stuff in it that I am not sure how good it is for fish but they died when I used it) or droncit (pure prazi) when he treated his tank?

You really need to ask what the pumps actually pump at your 1.2m head height before you can make a decision.. Like Ira has suggested there is usually a diagram on the side of the box.. I would say the middle one would probably be fine, but the bottom would be better, however that depends on what they actually flow at 1.2m. I am not sure what the 16mm overflow it sounds a bit small to me, is that the size of the tube of the size of the hole drilled in your tank or are you running a different overflow? Another thing, have you considered using a canister filter on this tank considering it is only 90L? Unless you are going marine or have any specific reason for going to a sump..

In a 180L tank I would add some more caves/rockwork/plants and maybe another female or 2 to spread the aggression on the single female. This can backfire if you don't provide enough hiding places as the least dominant female can get it from the male and most dominant female. Failing that just keep an eye on them and remove or separate her if things go too far.

Plenty of info on here using the search function But your options are to strip the fish or to let the fish spit. There are advantages and disadvantages to both methods. Stripping is good in that it doesn't let the fish get too run down, and means you can let the female hold in the tank with the other fish so she doesn't loose her place and cause her more stress. It is unnatural though and can run the risk (very low) of injuring the fish through handling it. Letting them spit is natural and easy and the fish lets them go when they are ready. Disadvantages are the fish can hold and not eat for upto a month letting her (and the fry) get quite run down this is not really an issue as you can fatten her up away from the other fish before you introduce her. The other problem is most of these fish are colony forming fish and removing the female to spit means she looses her place in the colony which again can cause her stress when you stick her back in the tank. The mother will end up eating the babies eventually but wont for a while after spitting them. Another consideration if the fish were bred in a tank with other africans is if they are pure babies.

How big is the tank? As that determines the size (flow rate) of the pump you need , ideally you want one that turns over 4-5 times the volume of the tank (you could go even more depending on what type of fish you keep and the size of your overflow) at your head height. The pump with the 0.6m head probably wont pump the 1m you want it to.