Bubbles Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 I'm speccing a new tank, and would like some input on the overflow design. The tank is being custom made, so I'd like something done properly that has more visual appeal than simple triangular corner overflows. At the moment I'm leaning towards a box shaped overflow, centered on the back panel. This would serve as a overflow and have the plumbing for the return. Any thoughts or other design ideas? Also Duke, how are your's working out? I did like the minimilist look of it. Bubs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 triangles are PITA. mines a rectangle 200x120 inside to accommodate a 40mm durso and you can get your hand in there. next time i will have the return plumbed inside it. i went dark tint glass to disguise plumbing until it gets over grown. if my tank wasnt backed into a corner i'd have gone central as well, tho youd want some idea of aquascape 1st maybe...i'd guess you would go euro bracing as well?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifty Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 I have a center overflow on my tank. If I was to do it again I would get an external overflow, but really depends on how many sides your tank is viewable from and how close to the wall it is. I also have my return coming through my overflow, keeps everything tidy but vibrates on the tank(not sure how to get rid of the vibration) again I would probably make it an external return next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KP Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 Drifty, what do you mean by external overflow? A box glued to the back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifty Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 yeah, seen a few on reef central Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KP Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 In that case, if you had enough room to have a box sticking out the back, why wouldn't you just make the tank wider and have the box inside the tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duke Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 Well Bubbles you have opened a can of worms here. Yes I like my central over flow because it does open the tank right up. To see the over flows you have too get low and look up. They are not in the usual line of sight. You have to look for them. If I was to do it again I would look at an external overflow box in the end corner if it was not a viewing end, other wise I would do what I have done. Mine is very noisy. Too much air you have to get rid of the air. 1) Same over flows - one as a safety for a full siphon system. 2) The second over flow would be full siphon with a tap on the outside, large tap and a pain to ase to tune(Cracker I took note, but had to do it my way, you know what I mean). 3) Other overflow hole could be small- full siphon tap if you don't want a safety, easier to tune. A Cracker but external! - Also thanks Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbles Posted June 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 Drifty: Any pics? Would be really helpful! Internal box overflow centered on the back panel seems the way to go. The only things that worries me is access as the tank will up against a wall. Especially as the returns will be coming through as well LOL, this is upgrading from my current 100 x 50 x 70 that's only been up for 2 weeks. Must be some kind of record upgrade Bit of an emergency is I've discovered that the front panel is slowly pulling away from the bottom bracing. Also, thoughts on starfire glass for the front panel (or heck even the sides) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 In that case, if you had enough room to have a box sticking out the back, why wouldn't you just make the tank wider and have the box inside the tank Completely agree KP!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 starfire or diamante glass scratches easier and the colour difference is not that much to worry about IMO. Overflow in the centre bad idea for access. Rectangular in corner. You will need access on a regular basis. Only my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbles Posted June 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2006 I've decided to go for an iternal overflow, about 130 x 300 x 560 is size. It'll be about 1/4 from the right hand side of the tank, making access a bit easier, and not being in the corner will also provide larger linear overflow too. Any thoughts? Bubs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KP Posted June 18, 2006 Report Share Posted June 18, 2006 Check you can fit the desired size of tank fitting/s. Also not sure how you have your bracing but make sure its not going to be in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifty Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 my overflow is 180 by 600 long, I have only just enough room to fit the 3 pipes in, had I moved the holes further forward in the tank I probably wouldnt have a problem. I will post some photos later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevan Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 I wish i had extenal overflow on side of tank. one thing I realy wish i had done was to have two overflow outlets one for normal use and one at the top as an emergency overflow (for if anithing blocks main overflow ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suphew Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Especially as the returns will be coming through as well Make sure you consider what happens if the power goes out, somehow you will need to have siphons holes in your returns. Overflow in the centre bad idea for access. Rectangular in corner. You will need access on a regular basis Depends what type of standpipe you have, the 'cracker pipe' as I understand will need to be accessed so you can keep adjusting it so your flow etc changes. A durso will need to be accessed for the first couple of weeks while you tune it then shouldn't need to be accessed again. I have coral growing up the sides of my overflow box now, hope I dont have to access it again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 and further to suphew's comments, dont 'glue' your standpipe in. just have it push fit incase you need to take it out to clean (or in my case get a coral i dropped to the bottom of the overflow ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbles Posted June 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 I've realised that due to stand design I won't be able to have to bulkheads at the bottom of the overflow. So the overflow dimensions give me 560 mm of linear overflow, or almost 5500 l/hr. Plenty IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbles Posted June 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 So the overflow dimensions give me 560 mm of linear overflow, or almost 5500 Should really clarify this. The size of the overflow is no longer determined by the size of the plumbing. It really comes down to how small I can make it (i.e. visually appealing) and still have it perform well enough. For performance, my personal preference is to not exceed 10x flow through the overflow and sump. I tried this with my current tank by pushing over 4000 l/hr through a 350L tank and didn't like it. Prefer adding a couple of streams or powerheads for more flow/current, and positioning them as needed. Bubs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 I've realised that due to stand design I won't be able to have to bulkheads at the bottom of the overflow. ummmm,... so water goes into the overflow and the overflow acts as your sump??? that doesnt make sense, you have to have a bulkhead at the bottom of your overflow otherwise da water cant git outtin' it So the overflow dimensions give me 560 mm of linear overflow, or almost 5500 l/hr. Plenty IMHO. the area of overflow (where the water falls over) does not give you lph, the size of the pipe does. the area simply gives you a lower/higher water level Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbles Posted June 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 ummmm,... so water goes into the overflow and the overflow acts as your sump??? that doesnt make sense, you have to have a bulkhead at the bottom of your overflow otherwise da water cant git outtin' it Originally I thought have having the overflow drilled at the bottom i.e. the bottom glass panel. Now I've realised that the stand's beams are going to be in the way, and so the overflow will be drilled in the back panel. There will be a main drain and a backup drain higher up the overflow. the area of overflow (where the water falls over) does not give you lph, the size of the pipe does. the area simply gives you a lower/higher water level Yes all true, however one can be limited by both the pipe diameter and the linear overflow size, at least that's what I've gathered from the reefcentral calculator. What I was getting at was that I need to make sure the linear overflow size is enough for my needs, as I know the piping will be ok. Bubs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 sweet, you're onto it then mines drilled at the back too, no problem at all with that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbles Posted June 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 sweet, you're onto it then Well let's not get ahead of ourselves Thanks for the pic, where did you get your unions from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 chesters or mico's. ask for trade price, alot cheaper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suphew Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 I just went to wrightsons because I needed a tap for my topoff barrel and found that they sold some hansen fittings. I got a 20mm bulkhead for $9 which I think was a pretty good price. they also stock the larger sizes up to 50mm. Go the farmers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KP Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Went to MICO last week to get a couple of bulkheads Hansen 32mm $12.18 Hansen 25mm $8.08 Not sure if I got retail or trade :-? :-? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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