Wallzy Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) HI Guys,I have just purchased a chiller -Hailea HC 300A - and need to install on a aqua one 620 tank (90L?)So need to buy a pump could somebody send me a link or recommend the pump I would need. would like to go a little bigger than I need incase I upgrade the tank.You can see I the pic I have it plumed through the wall, so the pump will need to powerful enough so the water can complete the cycle over the distance.I have some Koura on the way and have 12 whitebait and 3 bullies. I would also like to know what the operating parameters should be.Also what would be the best temperature to aim for with my setup?Any help appreciated as im a complete newbie!Thanks Steve. Edited November 23, 2015 by Wallzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shilo Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) The rods are a bit heavy tackle for practising in the fish tank aren't they? For the pump you will need to work out the head height from the top of the water level of the sump (see below) to the height of the water in the tank. Using this head height look at the graphs from the pump manufacturers to work out how many litres per hour certain sized pumps will put out. Because you are pumping through a chiller I would go up a size, Also the diameter of the return pipe and the number of elbows or right angle bends produce friction which can also mean going up a size. If your "whitebait" are Inanga, banded or giant kokopu & your bullies are common or redfin's you won't need a strong flow and 400-500 litres per hour from your return in the tank will be good enough for a 90ltr tank. Because of head height and friction this may mean a 1000lph is needed. Some natives like Korao (a whitebait species), torrent fish, and some of the bullies will need more current.A flexible option is to get a DC pump which you can adjust via its control pad to what you want and get at least double the size that you think you will need. These are also more power efficient then the normal AC powered pumps. I'm using a Jabeo DCS which so far has been great but there are other makes of DC pumps out there. I am assuming here that you are using a sump. If you have a canister filter then just attach the canister outlet to the chillers inlet then have the chillers outlet going into the tank. Because of the extra friction from pumping through the chiller you may find you will need to get a larger / stronger canister filter. You want a minimum of 3x but preferably 5x or more your tanks capacity for lph flow in your tank. Edited November 23, 2015 by Shilo livingart 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrienne Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 I am delighted to see that you have done the research needed and gotten a chiller before you put the natives in the tank. Shilos advice is good and sound. If you haven't already, take a look at our natives section on the website as it may, or may not assist and also the natives section on the forums. Hopefully they can provide added guidance. Keep us updated, we love pictures and updates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) Aquarays nz http://aquarays.co.nz/product/jebao-dc-2000-variable-return-pump/This may do your job, I have sourced all my pumps fro them and service has been excellent Edited November 23, 2015 by livingart Adrienne 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallzy Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Thanks for the help.27deg in Christchurch today and tank at 16degHave 3 happy Koura, sorting out their new digs they have had a wee feed on some cucumber but haven't eaten much really.Any help on the best temp and how often I should be feeding the little fellas would be good.Ended up with a Hailea HC 500A chiller, it only pumps out the water 0.4 deg lower than the tank temp is this normal or should it be higher?Thanks Again Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallzy Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shilo Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Mines a 500A andi it takes about 20 minutes to drop the temps in a 500ltr tank down 1C. One thing to remember with the chiller is to allow a lot of air movement around it and it will be pumping out heat which will unfortunately heat the room and thus your tank if it is in the same room. If you can leave a window open it will help a lot to keep the room temps down. I think most natives (inc Koura) are happy at 15C, they will be Ok up to 18C but will start to stress once it goes above 20C. I have my chiller set to 15C and the tank temps will rise to 16C then the chiller clicks on and brings it back down to 15C.Your crays are a great clean up crew and will find all sorts of yummy morsels amongst the gravel. Left over fish food, algae, dead plant material, the odd fish if they can catch them - anything they can put in their mouths. If you want to feed them specific foods then choose something with a blend of protein and veges or let them clean up what your fish miss and just throw in a Spirulina wafer now and again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrienne Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Interesting to see how long the 500A takes to drop the temp in your tank Shilo. I have the 300A on my 250 litre marine and have just purchased a 500A for my new marine build. My 300A only comes on for a couple of mins at a time fortunately as its on the wall that backs to our bedroom.We have 'led light' windows in our lounge area and I find leaving those open certainly reduces the heat within the room. Any high up in the room windows that can be opened are great. I also leave my cabinet door open at night an if I am out during the day to give the chiller more air space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shilo Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 I think the long time to chill is because the 500A is at its upper limit with a 500ltr tank and amount of flow from my pump (rated 7000 lph less head) is higher then its recommended 1500-3000lph. The higher the flow the less water contact time and the lower the hp the harder it has to work and thus the longer time it would take to chill. The good thing about it is that even with the ambient temps being 25+C it only comes on a few times a day because the larger water volume means the tank takes longer to rise in temperature.The chiller is in a separate room to the tank with 2 windows (security stayed) open above it and the door permanently open, which helps to avoid heating up the sump water (next to the chiller) as well as venting the hot air. Also fitted security stays on the office window beside the tank so I can leave that open as well to reduce the ambient temperature. Anything to keep those temps down! Haven't noticed a change in the electricity bill since the chillers been running but the camps bill is so large and fluctuates so much that I doubt I will ever notice a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrienne Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 We don't pay our electricity so I wouldn't have a clue what its costing us and we also have 36 solar panels on our roof so to my reckoning - on the days the chiller is running hard at it then we must be taking in a whole lot of power through our panels. Last summer we returned 2/3rd of it to the grid.I am lucky in that my 500A won't be pumping to a head height so that will help it as it will also be maxed out on the tank and sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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