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Henward's Tank build: 1700Litres - Completed


henward

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Looks awesome. Nice indoor pool you have there. :slfg:

Is the glass tinted, or just so thick that it looks darker? You must be just about at the max what glass can do before having to use acrylic. Like most people, can't wait to see it filled now.

Will be just another case of hurry up and wait for all of us now I guess. :spop:

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yeah, the last corner of the garage sitll needs to be sealed and insulated, doing that this thurs. then clean up.

arrange garage, and wait to cure the silicone.

i have also modifed sum, will post pics of that when i have placed in position

i have retrofitted a secondary sump from warren a while back to sit on my current sump for a wet dry bio trickle media, at the bottom will be a 40 to 50 litre K1 Media moving media filter. the bio media will have a recirculating type set up.

alsothe sump is all 'fully sealed' as mentioned so avoid smells and to avoid evaporation as much as possible.

the overflows/filter box on corners are tinted glass.

the bottom of the tank is all clear, sides too. but on top of the poly, i have a thin black cloth so i dont have to pain the bottom and its black, that gives a tint tot he look of the tank. when lights are on, wont notice it with substrate.

all the plumbing as much as possible are drilled onto the sump, and the inlets are on the bracing at the back. will post pics when all fittings in, should be in the next 3 weeks (as i have that much time for it to cure :D)

The lids have no corners cut out, no wires that will come out, nothing in the tank but the tank.

as for the feeding hole, greg cut a hole on the lid, the piece that came out is on a rectangular piece of glass, that is like alid

i will put 'functionality' pics when everything is done, just in case anyone wants to pick up any single idea from the build.

nervous with filling it,

cos of the size. i keep checking the seals to make sure they are all not coming off with the natural action of gravity and stuff.

seems to have settled now, so when fully cured should be very strong.

bracing on the ends are 40cm pieces of glass. middle is 15cm. Accross the length on both sides are 9cm lengths.

i will eventually spray paint the sides, back.

i will do that when the tank is filled and has not exploded or leaked. Dont wanna waste money on spray paint incase it doesnt hold:D

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sory dont nkow wha tyou mean gap.

but the door itself goes up and are in panels. quite big panels. lucky cos then i can insulate them with ply. otherwise i cant.

the gaps around the door, i will eventually put this bristly stuff on people put around smoke stop doors, dont know the name but seen itin mitre 10.

the ceiling and the side walls are heavily insulated now, so should keep heat in heaps.

after i clean up and finish garage, i will insulate the doors.

before tank is filled, doors should be insulated.

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the gap i mean is across the top of the door when it's closed, you can't see it unless your up a ladder or something. With a roller door it can be quite large, I'm not sure how big the gap is for the sectional doors. I put a blanket on it to cover the gap on mine, only thing is when you want to open the door you have to get it down.

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the gap i mean is across the top of the door when it's closed, you can't see it unless your up a ladder or something. With a roller door it can be quite large, I'm not sure how big the gap is for the sectional doors. I put a blanket on it to cover the gap on mine, only thing is when you want to open the door you have to get it down.

oh, will look, never noticed it.

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oh, will look, never noticed it.

i didn't either. i had a drought and couldn't work out where it was coming from but eventually found it was coming from there, made a big difference blocking it up and the rest of my garage is not insulated.

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the way i see it, coming from a tin totally uninsulated fridge to a 99% insulated garge, heat loss will be minimal from now.

doesn't work that way.. You can insulate to your hearts desire in all the walls but if you have a small draft it could spoil it all..

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recently at my local golf club they replaced the seal for the beer chiller door, it was mostly sealing but not totally. The difference after the seal was changed was the chiller almost instantly dropped by 6 degrees Celsius and the running costs have dropped significantly due to a combination of retaining the desired temp and being able to reduce the energy required to maintain it. All from just the door seal so it must be worth blocking all gaps.

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Looking at that I'm a bit surprised Greg opted to drill the brace for the returns rather than the back of the tank!

The returns look quite low too, are you going to raise them or drill them so they don't siphon back too much water when the power goes off? Plumbing looks pretty flash though!

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Looking at that I'm a bit surprised Greg opted to drill the brace for the returns rather than the back of the tank!

The returns look quite low too, are you going to raise them or drill them so they don't siphon back too much water when the power goes off? Plumbing looks pretty flash though!

There are heaps of holes in the return line. Above the water level so wont use my non return valve for max flow

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