Nano tank attempt experience.

[Godly3vil]

wow!, just WOW.

[Joe]

I even joined a while ago so I could comment on his tank :facepalm: :slfg: :happy2:

[HelifaxNZ]

I've just setup about a month ago a nano tank. Dymax IQ5 with a Dymax 30w heater and a Dymax Venturi Protein Skimmer. I got a lid made as HFF did not have any stock of the Dymax lid.

I've imported a couple of Cree PAR38 lights. One is 6x6 - 6 white and 6 blue. The other is 8x4.

The 8x4 is brighter and would be good for Acros. The other is a nice balance.

The tank comes with lights but is not strong enough for Marines.

Hard to say which I prefer as both are just as nice.

I've just this week added some Zoos. They seem to be enjoying the light.

I'm working out an auto top off as evaporation is faster on a nano, but has reduced since I put the lid on.

Definitely cheaper to run than bigger tanks, BUT you need to be more meticulous with maintenance.

I personally think top up water is the most important as the salinity will fluctuate greatly if a lot of water had evaporated.

[Fruju]

I've just setup about a month ago a nano tank. Dymax IQ5 with a Dymax 30w heater and a Dymax Venturi Protein Skimmer. I got a lid made as HFF did not have any stock of the Dymax lid.

I've imported a couple of Cree PAR38 lights. One is 6x6 - 6 white and 6 blue. The other is 8x4.

The 8x4 is brighter and would be good for Acros. The other is a nice balance.

The tank comes with lights but is not strong enough for Marines.

Hard to say which I prefer as both are just as nice.

I've just this week added some Zoos. They seem to be enjoying the light.

I'm working out an auto top off as evaporation is faster on a nano, but has reduced since I put the lid on.

Definitely cheaper to run than bigger tanks, BUT you need to be more meticulous with maintenance.

I personally think top up water is the most important as the salinity will fluctuate greatly if a lot of water had evaporated.

Did you get HFF to import the setup for you? Yeah I have got the impression from reviews that lighting and skimming on the ready to go systems is often inadequate.

Well water chemistry is likely to swing much faster etc in smaller setups; do you use any supplements on the tank?

Where do you get auto top off tech? I haven't seen any for sale here. Have you used a refractometer at all?

Is the skimmer doing a good job? That was one of the ones I was looking at.

Also are you running a sump/refugium?

Thanks

[HelifaxNZ]

Did you get HFF to import the setup for you? Yeah I have got the impression from reviews that lighting and skimming on the ready to go systems is often inadequate.

Well water chemistry is likely to swing much faster etc in smaller setups; do you use any supplements on the tank?

Where do you get auto top off tech? I haven't seen any for sale here. Have you used a refractometer at all?

Is the skimmer doing a good job? That was one of the ones I was looking at.

Also are you running a sump/refugium?

Thanks

HFF already have stock. I know they were selling like hotcakes!

I have not used any supplements yet. Waiting a little longer before I start. Might use Zeovit Starter. Still thinking about it.

I definitely use a refractometer to make sure salinity is right. Usually betweek 1023-1025, but with an auto top off it's pretty stable. Made it myself as buying one just costs too much. Easy to make using a battery powered air pump. Check on Youtube for DIY. You will have to import the floating switch though as I haven't seen any small ones in NZ.

Skimmer is still breaking in. Did change the airstone (wooden one that came with the skimmer) to a Redsea and 100% better. Smaller bubbles which is what you need.

No sump and no refugium.

Here's a link to my tank...

http://www.nzmas.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12479

[Fruju]

Awesome, went and checked them out today.

How much are refractometers? I haven't seen them for sale in store?

Also where did you source the LED's? Are they expensive?

Yeah I read other recommendations to change the airstone as well.

I want to try something like this but on a tank around 50-60L

Looks great btw.

[Fruju]

Never mind about the refractometer question, did some research.

[HelifaxNZ]

I'm trailing the lights. If it is a goer which I think it will be, I'll import some in and sell them. Will be around the $180 mark which includes the stand.

If you decide to start a nano. I might consider loaning or selling you the other light I have so you can test them out. I've taken some video footage of the Zoos I have. Once I have collated them I'll be posting it up.

[Fruju]

That would be really great, I was a member of nzmas but never did anything on there, might get back on there I think.

Will do it this summer after I find out whether or not I will be moving around for work.

[TBrewerton]

I am fairly new to Fishtanks, jumped in the deep end and brought a 60L tank.

Its been up and running for about 3months now and all params are pretty steady.

Im using no filtration system besides the live rock and do frequent water changes 1-2 times per week.

From memory it has about 25-30KG of Rock in it plus 10KG of sand, I have 2 true perc clowns and a sandsifter goby as well as a hermit.

I kick started the tank using the "dead prawn" technique which put the tank through its cycle within about a week.

Currently my Params are:

1.024 Salt

Nitrate 0

Ph around 8

Phoshate 0

The tank was a "Brillux" brand kit you find at the shops, recently i did a retrofit in the canopy though and stripped out the single T5 and replaced it with a Panaroma Pro LED strip from ecoxotic.

After the retrofit I have added a small cluster of Zoas and a Ric Mushroom - Both of which seem very very happy.

Cost.... Well I am now over the 2k mark, some of that is from bad advice from shops which meant I brought stuff I didn't need etc - but all part of learning i guess.

That also includes purchasing a ro/di unit and also importing the LEDs etc

All in all I find the tank fairly simple to look after, but it does need constant care as far as water changes go. For this i now have a 55L tub set up with its own heater and pump to mix water in, that way I always have a decent supply on hand incase any params do swing quickly.

[HelifaxNZ]

I am fairly new to Fishtanks, jumped in the deep end and brought a 60L tank.

Its been up and running for about 3months now and all params are pretty steady.

Im using no filtration system besides the live rock and do frequent water changes 1-2 times per week.

From memory it has about 25-30KG of Rock in it plus 10KG of sand, I have 2 true perc clowns and a sandsifter goby as well as a hermit.

I kick started the tank using the "dead prawn" technique which put the tank through its cycle within about a week.

Currently my Params are:

1.024 Salt

Nitrate 0

Ph around 8

Phoshate 0

The tank was a "Brillux" brand kit you find at the shops, recently i did a retrofit in the canopy though and stripped out the single T5 and replaced it with a Panaroma Pro LED strip from ecoxotic.

After the retrofit I have added a small cluster of Zoas and a Ric Mushroom - Both of which seem very very happy.

Cost.... Well I am now over the 2k mark, some of that is from bad advice from shops which meant I brought stuff I didn't need etc - but all part of learning i guess.

That also includes purchasing a ro/di unit and also importing the LEDs etc

All in all I find the tank fairly simple to look after, but it does need constant care as far as water changes go. For this i now have a 55L tub set up with its own heater and pump to mix water in, that way I always have a decent supply on hand incase any params do swing quickly.

Where in NZ are you from? Up in Auckland I collect Saltwater from Takapuna when the tide is rising. Maybe you can do the same which will save you salt costs. Takapuna water salinity is around 1.026 so I have to add a little RODI water to dilute it down.

[TBrewerton]

Hamilton, a bit to inland for that

Cool idea though, I guess I would be a little scared of impurities though... Have you ever had any major issues with it?

I guess by getting the in coming tide water theres less chance of crap being in it. Do you get it from the shore or a little way out?

Tim

[HelifaxNZ]

From the boat ramp. You do have to pick your days and time. Never had any issues and never had any fish die. A lot of marine people do this and have no issues. Saves a lot of Moolas!

[F15hguy]

tested some Tauranga Harbour water the other day, had an ammonia reading of 0.25ppm and a nitrate reading of around 10ppm

now I collect my water closer to the entrance on an incoming tide. (until I get a bit more serious on growing some algae)

[marinefish4life]

tested some Tauranga Harbour water the other day, had an ammonia reading of 0.25ppm and a nitrate reading of around 10ppm

now I collect my water closer to the entrance on an incoming tide. (until I get a bit more serious on growing some algae)

We uasally collect around the chapel street bridge near the gas station

[F15hguy]

lol, the water I tested came from the Mobil wharf at chapel street, about 1 hour after high, 2 days after a big rain

I was assuming it might be fertiliser run off, but then again, the creek at the top of that estuary is rated as one of the most polluted streams in the BOP area.though better safe than sorry.

anyway Fatso seems to prefer the mount's water

[livingart]

about 1 hour after high, 2 days after a big rain

almost as bad as collecting it at low tide

1/2 hr before to just on high is best

[HelifaxNZ]

Also recommend waiting a couple of days or three after rain before collecting.

[F15hguy]

could be interesting to do some basic water sampling from a range of tides and a range of weather conditions

I'd hate to see what sort of pollution comes out of the rotting sea weed everywhere

p.s. watch out for the sea lice i the estuary there, they get really bad after a long sunny period for some reason, and they bite really bad when your wading on the mudflats (but they do look cool up close)