livebearer_breeder Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 The price tag on that is not cool lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 The price tag on that is not cool lol not cool at all lol but it is. would mean that you dont need a computer (i think lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Finished the netting & paper on the roof and got the iron on :thup: Used up the off cuts of expol to insulate the gaps form the walls joins manged to get the building paper up despite the wind. and finality after a long day got most of the plywood tacked in place, just before it started to rain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-obstacle Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 hot damn! It's looking great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Thanks its looks like a building now lol, but can't do to much more now until it drys out a lot, I've left the back corner sheet of ply off so it will get a bit of air through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 ok so i am almost at the wiring stage and am a bit confused about how to heat and cool the room. i was thinking a thermostat that turns on the heat when drops below and turns the wall fan on when over heats (from sun etc). but i would also like to have the fan on a timer to get a guaranteed air change, but if the thermostat and timer where both trying to power the fan at the same time wouldn't the power short out???. (do i need 2 fans) I would also like to be able to have the two rooms at different temps, so i guess that means x2 of everything lol Would it be better to have 2 thermostats in each room (1 for heating and other for cooling) rather than one that does both any other ideas are were welcome :thup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Would it be better to have 2 thermostats in each room (1 for heating and other for cooling) rather than one that does both I think you'd have to have two. The thermostats I have experience with (for greenhouses) are either on or off at the temp you set, would be considerably more complicated having it switching one thing on at above X temp and then another at below Y temp. Having one for each set a couple of degrees apart so there's no overlap would be the simplest solution IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 I think you'd have to have two. The thermostats I have experience with (for greenhouses) are either on or off at the temp you set, would be considerably more complicated having it switching one thing on at above X temp and then another at below Y temp. Having one for each set a couple of degrees apart so there's no overlap would be the simplest solution IMO. That's what i was leaning to but would mean i would have to buy 4 thermostats $$$(2 for each room). a person on TM said they stock one that does both but i don't think you would be able to set the degrees apart, so the heater and fan would be always going on and off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diver21 Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 you could run it so that you have two thermostats. one does the fans and the other the heaters. and have a switch between the thermostat and each fan/heater. but then the thermostats would only be in one room. with the rooms are you planning on running each one at diffrent temps and likely to change from the reptiles in one half then a month later move them all into the other half? just thinking that if you just have one main room yould just open the door to the second room to heat it. the heater could also turn on a fan to circulate the warm air around the rooms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 thank you for your ideas Just found this it does both heating and cooling and you can adjust the tolerance so they wont be constantly coming on and off. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=389208650 but then the thermostats would only be in one room. Will have to have one in each room. with the rooms are you planning on running each one at diffrent temps and likely to change from the reptiles in one half then a month later move them all into the other half? The rooms will change through out the year when the reptiles are in brumation (probably just turn heating off). Nar no chance of switching reptiles between rooms the second room is my livefood room and is only 1.2 by 2.3m (temp wont change at all. just thinking that if you just have one main room yould just open the door to the second room to heat it. the heater could also turn on a fan to circulate the warm air around the rooms. Yer when the rooms are the same temp can just turn one thermostat off and open the door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Thought i would up date. Put the Barge board up and most of the flashing Ran all the wires and back fixings for the plugs. switchboard. Ripped down some 160x30mm to 50x30mm for the ceiling battens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MalcolmX Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 that looks real good, just wonering tho have you insulated the cealing/roof as thats probably where the most heat will escape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 that looks real good, just wonering tho have you insulated the cealing/roof as thats probably where the most heat will escape? The roof is on, but not the ceiling so the insulations is next to go in before the gib ceiling is fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 2/3 of the insulation is in and started to gib the ceiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnaM Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 Good job! Looks fantastic! :thup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted August 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Good job! Looks fantastic! :thup: Thanks Have decided not to gib the walls, going to go for a cheaper option. Found a kiction place that has heaps of 15mm 2.4x1.8 particle board packing sheet for only $15 ea and they are nice and clean, so i think they will look good after a polythene. (hopfully wont be able to see much of the walls soon any way) :thup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Have just started to line the walls with particle board and would like to seal it off. What is a non toxic varnish or similar that will work and not poison my reptiles, anyone know any brands etc that they may have used on there diy wooden reptile enclosures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted August 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 So now the outside of the fan and air in takes are in and flashed off The flexable flashing around the door The internal door in and all the lining that i can install is in untill i put the plumbing and mains cable I still need a little bit more insulation but my dad is starting to do up his new house so should be able to get some off-cuts :thup: Still not to shore about what to seal the lining off with, help would be great with picking a varnish or something that will not poison my pets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-obstacle Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Looks great! Is it gib lined? If so wouldn't the standard plus4 and sureseal do the trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted August 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Looks great! Is it gib lined? If so wouldn't the standard plus4 and sureseal do the trick? The ceiling is lined with gib, but i used a 15mm particle board on the walls because it was cheaper and easier to fix things to the walls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-obstacle Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 hmm, price is going to be an issue but you could technically still plaster/skim the particle board and seal afterwards then paint with acrylic. If you know a plasterer it'd take them 3-4 hours max to skim the whole room/shed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason22 Posted August 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 hmm, price is going to be an issue but you could technically still plaster/skim the particle board and seal afterwards then paint with acrylic. If you know a plasterer it'd take them 3-4 hours max to skim the whole room/shed. Would i need to plaster it, why not just seal it with a paint or varnish? the particle board that is will plaster the ceiling. Have read that people just use a water based poly-urethane (and let it air out for a few weeks) to seal there MDF reptile enclosures from moisture. could someone please shed some light on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Think I just used standard old polyurethane for my lizard setup. Was thinned/cleaned with turps so cant of been waterbased? Think I was told to get acrylic, who by, who knows. Also found a pond sealer in bunnings. Suppose to be non toxic (for fish ponds so must be reasonably ok). Goes on like thinned pva glue, dries hard. needs lots of coats, mdf sucked it up hard. About 100bux for 4L? Id go with polyurethane, just takes a good couple of weeks to go off/set (heat the room if you can) and air out .. . not sure if 100% safe but she be rite :slfg: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 I painted my lizard enclosures with water based paint--non toxic and little fumes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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