BikBok Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 ARE THERE ANY AFTER AFFECTS TO ICH? there are only one or two spots left on the choc zebra but his skin is looking a little cloudy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 not usually. ich usually occurs because of a compromised immune system as is associated with stress among other things. a compromised immune system can however lead to other complications. If i were you i'd use the normal dose of white spot cure. i can't understand who said the dose has to be halved. if that were the case i can assure some marketing person out there would have captured the market for 1/2 dose white spot cure for plecos, loaches and other catfish. keep the water changes up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 thanks, I don't have the original bottle so don't have the instructions. This was decanted to me from a very nice LFS from their bulk supply as they didn't have any retail bottles. I just want to clarify whether I redose each day or just the amount that has been removed in water changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 I was just on PC (again :oops: ) and came across this - http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... =4&t=29978 seems people use 3/4 dosages as well, but i'd still stick by a full dose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos & Siran Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 44 I was just passing on what we were told by Linyloo and Whetu when our clowns got Ich a year ago: BEWARE Clown Loaches are Scale-less Fish, which make them abit more sensitive to meds than other Fishys, you should really halve the dosage it says on the Bottle. I have Clown Loaches too, so if I get an attack of White Spot, I up the Temp to 28 then I dose with halve the dose they say on the Bottle, then re-dose again 3 days later, after doing a Big Water Change. The White Spot will have most certainly come from the Neons :roll: Good Luck Lynda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 REDOSE ? the water has turned clear over night. Do I need to redose , and what amount? As I said, I don';t have a retail bottle of white spot cure (blue circle) so am just going off what I can find online which is 2 drops per Litre, which I have halved for the plec but was going to increase today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 SPOTS GONE . I didn't have time to catch and QT him this morning so did it after work.. but MOST of the spots are gone! uh-oh .. does this mean that ich will be rampant in my main tank now? It means they have hatched and are swimming around looking for fish to attach to. You can't kill the spots, only the tomites floating around in the water, which is why I do large frequent water changes during treatment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 It means they have hatched and are swimming around looking for fish to attach to. You can't kill the spots, only the tomites floating around in the water, which is why I do large frequent water changes during treatment. that's what I thought. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me over the next couple of weeks. Litte Red Platy is flicking so I'll pull him out and put him in QT as well. QUESTION : once a fish has rid himself of the spots and has been clear for say 5-10 days, can he get reinfected? From what I've gathered on the net, treatment needs to continue for 3 days after spots disappear. After a few more days would it be safe to put Zeb back in the main tank? (with the chance there still might be tomites lurking) I'm just trying to avoid putting the blue stuff in main tank, hoping to control with salt and temp and will only pull out fish one at a time if I notice they are flicking or spotty. My QT tank is only 20L so i can't put too many in there at once!.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Litte Red Platy is flicking so I'll pull him out and put him in QT as well. QUESTION : once a fish has rid himself of the spots and has been clear for say 5-10 days, can he get reinfected? From what I've gathered on the net, treatment needs to continue for 3 days after spots disappear. Yes they can be reinfected, its not something they build up an immunity to. Treatment should continue for longer than 3 days IMO, depending on your temperature. In cold water tanks their life cycle can take weeks. I read an interesting technique that involved transfering the affected fish between two tanks, every time the spots hatched it was moved to the other tank and the first tank emptied, sterilised and refilled with clean water ready for the next move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 UPDATE Most of the spots have gone but I'm concerned about his skin condition. It has cloudy patches on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-town... Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 where did you get your blue circle whitespot cure from? thought it was a discontinued product in nz? ive used it and it works wonders! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrienne Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 as in cloudy like a covering over the colour or as in blotchy patches of colour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 where did you get your blue circle whitespot cure from? thought it was a discontinued product in nz? ive used it and it works wonders! discontinued? that's why i couldn't find any - what a shame! I got mine form a LFS owner who kindly decanted some from his bulk container into a smaller one for me. Didn't even charge anything for it. as in cloudy like a covering over the colour or as in blotchy patches of colour? more like blotches , as in the photo. It's hard to tell but I think it is loss on colour as against a film over top.. or could be both. Here's another pic: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrienne Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 With the ones I have just sold, the colouring depended a bit on which tank they were in and the wood colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 he should be fine. its just a reduction in the slime coat. use stress coat if you have some or a little salt to agitate the epithelial layer thus producing slime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 yes I have stress coat. It's what I've been using to dechlorinate the water in the Q.T Maybe I'll up it a bit. I read that when the white spots come off they can leave mini exit wounds so that can't be helping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-town... Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 yea the blue circle stuff was great had no effects in my heavily planted tank and the water was clear the following day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 yea the blue circle stuff was great had no effects in my heavily planted tank and the water was clear the following day! yes, mine goes clear the next day too.. so do I need to redose the initial amount or just the waterchange portion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted June 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 hey guys.. there's a couple of fish now flicking/flashing in the community tank. I've tried the salt and heat but maybe it's time to treat it with cure. It would have about 155L so how much medication would it need.. based on 2 drops per litre. Do I really have to count out 310 drops! or is there an easier measure lol. I'm a bit concerned about the silicone being stained but I'd rather have living fish! The tank has kuhli loaches, otos, baby whiptail, dwarf gourami and betta (female) - should I halve the dose? Is it going to wipe out the filter bacteria? This is really turning into a mission. I have the zebra in the QT still, along with 2 guppies and a platy who were showing signs of begin irritated. Zebra has a few more spots again and one of the guppies is now covered. I really can't put any more fish in there as it's only 20L. And I'm still not sure if the redose should be the full amount or just the water change portion. Clearly the first dose which was half strength for the Zeb has not been enough. Getting a bit panicked .. help ! I don't want to lose all my fish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted June 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 :bounce: bumping up for the morning crew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navarre Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 count how many drops of blue circle make up a ml and then work that out from there 20 drops per ml is what we use at work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 Hi bikbok, +1 to what Nav said. Also, I never have and am unlikely to half the dosage. Although I haven't had to deal with white spot in my home tanks for years, it is all too common a sight in stores. I have treated discus tanks with many fancy plecos with a full dose of white spot cure and salt. same deal with clown loaches and any other loach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted June 8, 2010 Report Share Posted June 8, 2010 Keep the temp up, add salt and keep up the big regular water changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplants Posted June 8, 2010 Report Share Posted June 8, 2010 Salt is good for a lot of skin related issues. I use 1 tablespoon (20ml) per 20 litres, just like the label says. My discus, hatchets loaches, plants etc seem quite happy - after all it is only a concentration of approximately 0.1%. Not necessarily a cure-all though. I'd be wary of constantly moving fish, showing Ich symptoms, to a QT for treatment and ignoring your main tank. As a number of posters have said on this thread, the medicine does not work on the parasite attached to the fish, it only works on the free swimming stage (that cannot be seen with the naked eye). I suppose as you completely empty your main tank of fish the parasite will eventually die out! :lol: As long as there is a single fish in your main tank there will still be ich present. As for dosage, I have used double doses on clown loaches with apparently no long term effects. Clowns always seem to get Ich first and the last to get rid of it! These are based on my experiences, others may disagree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikBok Posted June 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2010 I'm dosing the main tank this afternoon and that will hopefully get rid of any free swimmers looking for hosts. I'm a bit nervous on how it will affect my sensitive fish - but here goes! My spotty fish who i know have definitely got ich will be continued to be treated more aggressively in the QT tank, I'm aware that the spots have to disappear to get the parasite at it's vulnerable stage. But at least by keeping the spotty fish together I can be sure to get the ich when it's vulnerable. temp in both tanks is 28oC - can I go a bit higher with the fish I have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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