Aquatics NZ Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Hi there I am looking at setting up an enclosure for a bearded dragon around xmas/new year. I've been doing some research into them and just wanted some more info from people closer to home: 1. I am interested in a red or orange or even red and orange coloured baby bearded dragon. Where am I able to get one and how much would I be looking at spending? I would possibly go for a 9 month old - 1 year old if no babies are available. How much wold I be looking at for an older specimen? 2. In terms of an enclosure, I am useless when it comes to DIY and would prefer to buy one professionally made. Where could I get one from? I noticed one on trademe called an "EPS PREMIUM REPTILE HOME HABITAT". Includes most of the fittings and the lamp package is $99 extra. The only one they have left is 4x2x2. Is this a good unit? Would this be a suitable size? Apparently they can go 5x2x2 if I request it. 3. When it comes to feeding, I read that for a juvenile, 80% of their diet should be protein with the remaining 20% being vegetable. What would be the best foods for a juvenile and how often should they be fed? I also read that the above ratios are virtually opposite for adults. The same above question applies. Also, where would one get live foods from? Are they easy to breed? I also heard of some people feeding live mice to adults. Is this done in New Zealand? I know mice are quite fatty and if they are fed to bearded dragons, it shouldn't be done often. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave+Amy Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 that "EPS PREMIUM REPTILE HOME HABITAT" is cheap as chips AND comes with everything assembled so saves you the hassle, we had one 5'X2'X2' terrarium built 10mm glass (including pine stand+hood) that alone set us up $1500? not to mention the cables and lamps etc etc.. Baby beardys are a lot of work and if you don't have the time I suggest you buy an older lizard - live insects you can get through distributors on this site, you can easily put together a locust or cricket breeding contraption (or if you're not that way inclined get the guy who makes that terrarium to build you something that you can breed live insects with). You've got to FORCE your baby beardy veges and get it used to it - my partner spoiled ours from a young age to a point when Tequila flat out refused veges and his bones became decalcified and broke his lower back and now recovered he's a paraplegic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatics NZ Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 that "EPS PREMIUM REPTILE HOME HABITAT" is cheap as chips AND comes with everything assembled so saves you the hassle, we had one 5'X2'X2' terrarium built 10mm glass (including pine stand+hood) that alone set us up $1500? not to mention the cables and lamps etc etc.. Baby beardys are a lot of work and if you don't have the time I suggest you buy an older lizard - live insects you can get through distributors on this site, you can easily put together a locust or cricket breeding contraption (or if you're not that way inclined get the guy who makes that terrarium to build you something that you can breed live insects with). You've got to FORCE your baby beardy veges and get it used to it - my partner spoiled ours from a young age to a point when Tequila flat out refused veges and his bones became decalcified and broke his lower back and now recovered he's a paraplegic. Thanks for the reply. How old would you suggest I buy a dragon at? I still want to be able to 'bond' with one if possible. I also suppose the advantage of older ones is that they require less live food than younger ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
repto Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 not unheard of to dust livefood with calcium?in fact more like standard practise??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave+Amy Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 yup or you can even get the liquid version from vets easier and less messy than getting white powder everywhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave+Amy Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Thanks for the reply. How old would you suggest I buy a dragon at? I still want to be able to 'bond' with one if possible. I also suppose the advantage of older ones is that they require less live food than younger ones? there's heaps of breeders on this site or there's always people selling older ones on TM, I'm sure you can still 'bond' with older lizards as long as you spend time with it, when I took over Tequila's recuperation ('cos tbh my partner was semi-useless and I couldn't hold back any further) it took only a few feedings etc for him to realise what I was there for and he was good (ate everything from me) and when my partner took him back he first reused to eat from him lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave+Amy Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Tequila wouldn't touch any veges at all unless you stick it in the corner of his mouth and only then would he happil chew and swallow, convincing Tequila didn't work for the first few months we've had him and still doesn't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Sorry, I double posted below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 this site needs an article on the bds............any volunteers bd's are awesome reptiles, very easy care imo IF u get the basics rite. hot end a good 40C cool end low 20's say live food twice a day atleast for first 3-6months. no live food bigger than thy space between the eyes uv reptile bulbs within 30cm, closer the better. replace every 6 months Best to get them young watch em grow older ones are often stunted sick and or been raised on funny diets like dog food :roll: stay cool till after school 8) lol p.s regarding vege ive seen hatchlings pick away at the stuff from as young a 2weeks old. and that includes the one you got form me Dave+Amy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Metabolic bone disease seems to be a regular problem not only with beardies but a lot of reptiles. It seems simple to give adequate calcium and enough UV to help with absorption. There are other complications. People feed too much protein in the form of insects, and meat and it contains a lot of protein and often fat. Protein is a double helix of phosphates with amino acids hanging off it so this provides a lot of phoshate. I understand the ratio should be 2 of calcium to 1 of phosphate. There are other foods out there that tend to block the absorption of calcium as well and this all contributes to the problem. You don't need to force your beardie to eat its veg before it gets pudding but if there is only veg it will get hungry after a while. Reptiles in nature are not hand fed and any animal as big as us is likely to want to eat it, so hand feeding in my view is not a good thing. We may be killing our reptiles by trying to be kind. We all have our own views but these are mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 in the wild they can pick and choose what they eat in captivity they just get what we put in front of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
repto Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 people put all their humanoid emotions onto them.He likes me,he doesn`t like this or that?if its hungry it will eat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 but repto they are so lovely my girl one is called ingrid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
repto Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 i will have to check that one out if I ever get up your way!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 is there a way to test the levels of calcium and phosphate in bds? also does anyone know if theres a way to flush/detox a reptile of phosphate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 The best way is to feed food high in calcium and low in phosphate. This problem is relativly common in turtles fed a diet of cat food and other junk. There are vegatables out there that are high in calcium and low in blockers. Dandelion leaves are available and cheap. In the wild there will be long periods when not much food is available and this is why they brumate. As said previously, if you only feed good fresh vegetables they will eat it when they are hungry enough. Better than killing with kindness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 My female is called Queenie but she gets treated like a lizard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 this site needs an article on the bds............any volunteers Add to this or change it if necessary Bearded Dragon Pogona vitticeps DESCRIPTION: Males are larger than females, up to 24" a stocky lizard with prominent spines along its sides and a large, triangle-shaped head. Around the snout is a spiney jaw pouch which, when swollen, looks like a beard. Mature males have dark "beards". Wide variation in colouration from shades of brown, gray, and reddish-brown to bright orange. RANGE AND HABITAT: Central Australia, semi-arid to arid woodland, on the ground and in trees. Bearded dragons make a great pet lizard. They don’t get too large, eat a wide variety of foods, are active during the day, and are gentle animals. Bearded dragons in New Zealand are captive bred, have limited care requirements, readily available, and now fairly inexpensive. .HOUSING:A large aquarium or terrarium with a ventilated lid. Minimum of 1.2 metres x 50cm wide for 1 bearded dragon, though bigger is better. A UVB fluorescent bulb or tube a maximum 35cm away from lizard, an under floor heat pad. Substrate for the bottom of the tank, grass carpet, tiling, bark or fine sand.. A cave or hiding area for your bearded dragon and a branch rocks or logs for a basking or vantage spot.. Food bowl, smooth insect bowl, and a water dish. DIET: Omnivorous and in the wild eat many types of insects, small vertebrates, vegetation, fruits and flowers.. In captivity they can be fed Crickets, mealworms, Locusts, Slaters, Grasshoppers Etc, Frozen mixed vegetables: beans, carrots, peas, fresh vegetables: carrots, Grated pumpkin, dandelion greens, rock melon, Pawpaw, strawberries, Kitten cat food (rabbit or chicken) once or twice a week and Calcium & vitamin D3 supplement powder can be lightly sprinkled once or twice a week. Feeding baby dragons Young dragons need a lot of live food, but in smaller frequent meals. Good food will be small crickets, small mealworms, and wax worms. The insects should be gut loaded and coated with vitamin, calcium and mineral powder every second day. Chopped up vegetables should be offered every other day, the vegetables should be finely chopped and in small quantities. You will have to be careful not to overfeed the baby bearded dragons. As they get older Juvenile bearded dragons can eat more vegetables and less insects. They should be offered vegetables every day. Once they are are around nine months old insects can be fed only 2 – 3 times per week and calcium supplements can be reduced to every other day and vitamin supplements to once a week. . Illness and health problems Calcium & Vitamin D3 Deficienciescan cause seizures, stunted growth, deformities, poor bone growth, and brittle bones. Vitamin D3 and calcium problems can be solved by making sure your bearded dragon receives proper lighting and dietary supplements. Overfeeding baby and juvenile bearded dragons can cause paralysis in the hind quarters and is usually fatal. It results from the pressure of the food bolus on the spinal nerves. Therefor, do not overfeed the young lizards and do not give them insects that are too large. Respiratory Infection Signs of respiratory infection are gaping, noisy breathing, and mucus discharge from the nose and mouth. It is usually caused by low temperatures, high humidity, or both. You should keep your bearded dragon warm and at a relatively low humidity. See a veterinarian. Gastrointestinal Infections Signs of gastrointestinal infection are weight loss, lack of appetite, and foul smelling diarrhea. See a veterinarian. Fungal Infections Fungal infection are caused by a warm, damp environment. The infection occurs in a cut or scrape on your bearded dragonUse an anti-fungal ointment. Egg Bindingnding can be caused by calcium deficiency, being under or overweight, or the bearded dragon can’t find a suitable egg nest. Have a deep, soil substrate for your lizard to dig a nest. If egg binding is caused by a different reason, you will need to take the animal to the veterinarian. If your female stops eating for days and keeps running around the enclosure it maybe looking for a place to lay its eggs. BREEDING: Sexual maturity is reached at 1 – 2 years of age. Clutch size 7-16 long leathery eggs, the eggs are laid in sandy soil, incubation 3 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 i will have to check that one out if I ever get up your way!!! 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatics NZ Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 wow. thanks for all of the responses guys. I definitely think there's a little more reading for me to do. With regards to feeding a juvenile bd, are crickets the best form of live food? How often do they need to be dusted with calcium and how often does the bd need to be fed? Was I correct in stating that a baby bd requires 80% live and 20% vegetable? Also, what vegetables are best for optimal health? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 DIET: Omnivorous and in the wild eat many types of insects, small vertebrates, vegetation, fruits and flowers.. In captivity they can be fed Crickets, mealworms, Locusts, Slaters, Grasshoppers Etc, Frozen mixed vegetables: beans, carrots, peas, fresh vegetables: carrots, Grated pumpkin, dandelion greens, rock melon, Pawpaw, strawberries, Kitten cat food (rabbit or chicken) once or twice a week and Calcium & vitamin D3 supplement powder can be lightly sprinkled once or twice a week. Feeding baby dragons Young dragons need a lot of live food, but in smaller frequent meals. Good food will be small crickets, small mealworms, and wax worms. The insects should be gut loaded and coated with vitamin, calcium and mineral powder every second day. Chopped up vegetables should be offered every other day, the vegetables should be finely chopped and in small quantities. You will have to be careful not to overfeed the baby bearded dragons. As they get older Juvenile bearded dragons can eat more vegetables and less insects. They should be offered vegetables every day. Once they are are around nine months old insects can be fed only 2 – 3 times per week and calcium supplements can be reduced to every other day and vitamin supplements to once a week. live food twice a day atleast for first 3-6months. no live food bigger than thy space between the eyes others may have other thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatics NZ Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 others may have other thoughts thanks for that. I was typing with one hand for my last post and when I finally submitted it I noticed your very informative post... :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 forgot about this thread :oops: will carry on in the new care sheet thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Two sites I have had refered to me by kind people down this way are: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.c ... ition.html http://www.repticzone.com/articles/Ca-P_ratios.html They give an idea of the content of some foods and may be useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 thank you for the links, that ca;p ratio is handy to know seems im on the rite track growing mustard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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