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Over 300 watts?


Adrienne

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You can run cable either undergravel, or under tank and get better heating than a submerible heater and it uses less power than a heater.

Good for banks of tanks or large tanks

Wish I had done this in my fish area and when I do a room proper may be the way I go.

Navarre

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Most undergravel heating cables are fairly low power. Not going to work if you need more than 50-100 watts.:) And they're certainly not going to be more efficient at heating than a standard submersible.

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I'm running a 200 watt & a 300 watt in the sump of my tank. The last two days they have been on all the time and are fully cranked up as far as they go. Only holding the tank at 29 degrees. It really needs to be at 30. Was wondering if I could get a bigger one and run all three instead.

Total water volume about 550 litres I would guess.

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Hey Adodge.

Will get u a 300w Fluvel Tronic (brand New) heater if you want.

I used to use cheaper brands but after some advice from others on here have swaped to them. they seem to be much better at holding the temp.

You were gonna help me out with the guppies (and still can I hope), I hope i can help you with this, if u want.

We can work something out, let me know :D

Cheers

Johnny

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the Jager 300 watt heater is rated to run a tank 600 to 1000 litres, this might be an option to explore.

Temperature can be adjusted from 18oC to 34oC and is accurate to +/-0.5oC. Heating function indicated by an on/off control lamp. Fully submersible. protected against running dry. Suitable for fresh or marine water. Duran shatterproof glass jacket provides larger heating surface ensuring optimum heat transfer and less wattage to heat more water. 3 year warranty.

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Buy one of the big (300w) Jagers, they seem to have better temperature controllers than the cheaper types, so the element will run more of the time when it's really needed. Thats how they can heat a bigger tank than a cheapo of the same wattage.

Either put all three in the sump, or replace the 200 with a Jager and it should help.

I have a single 300 in my 200l tank, although it's only set to 25deg it has no problem with room temps down to about 8 deg.

Ian

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the Jager 300 watt heater is rated to run a tank 600 to 1000 litres, this might be an option to explore.

the Jager 300watt says its rated for those litres on the box but no way it can do 1000litres

i run 3 of them to power my 1000litre tank at 28deg

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the Jager 300watt says its rated for those litres on the box but no way it can do 1000litres

i run 3 of them to power my 1000litre tank at 28deg

It's all really a matter of the dimensions of the tank, the glass thickness and the temperature of the room. Well, and probably if you have a lid on it or not.

I think Jager's rating assumes a MUCH warmer room than the average crap insulated, crap heated drafty NZ house over the winter.

And also more optimistic than most other heater companies too.

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I've gone and purchased a Jager 300 watt heater. Its too big to put in the sump because of the way the sump is divided so its up in the tank. Its in the right hand back corner away from the sump overflow which takes all the water out. The only thing is that its not in direct flow from the inlet spray bar. I've taken out the 200 watt heater and turned the 300 watt down to 30 degrees. The tank dropped to 26 overnight so hopefully this will help.

My tank caused a power cut here yesterday. Obviously the strain of keeping the heaters on caused the circuit to overload. Fortunately someone was home. Now its running off an extension cord to another power point until the sparky gets here. We don't own this house so they are going to see if the loading can be upped so it doesn't happen again.

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300 watts is very little power to draw, if it is working correctly there is no way it will trip out your power. Most fan heaters are 2000 watts.

Why did you take the 200w one out?? I always run two heaters just in case one fails plus if the 200w was having problems keeping up the 300w isn't going to be much better.

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Glad you got a heater those jagar 300W's are huge aye its awesome..

On your power board tripping out, most of them are rated to 10amps which means you can stick 2300W worth of stuff plugged into them and going at the same time.. Are you running alot of other stuff off that powerboard as well was it the powerboard or house fuse/cb that tripped?

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Was running a pump (2500 lph), 3 x 4ft lights, 1x 200 watt and 1x 300 watt heater on the double wall plug. On the circuit that blew theres also the stereo, tv, 2x computers, printer, telephone, and wastemaster. Apparently its rated 20 amps? It was the fuse that tripped not the whole power board.

Suphew - I have left the other 300 watt heater in inside the sump.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hi there,

bring this thread back to life :-)

I was looking up info on the jager heater and wondered if it would help me....

My tank is one of those corner ones with about 300L - 350L.... Its holding discus and I've found that over the cold winter days the current heater (300w tronic heater) cant hold it more then 27 degrees but its set to 30 degrees.... its always switching on / off....

I also discovered today that it "may" have a crack in it but i cant take it out to check yet as it would mean turning off the heater and letting the thing cool down (which is bad for the poor already cold discus)... also, i have nothing suitable to replace it woth (a 200w aquaone...???)

i'm sure its not cracked (fingers crossed) else it would have exploded by now right? but it looks like it and I figure I better be safe then sorry and check some time soon once i get some replacement....

anyway, so thinking if it does need to be replaced (or if i need a speare, which I have afew already but nothing which would hold the 300L tank at 28 degrees)... maybe the jager would do well...

The otehr thing i was looking at is how mush is market gimic and how much is real... for example, they talk about using this "special" glass.... is this any betetr then other heaters? how does it compare to those which dont use glass at all (i think its either stainless steel or some form of plastic???)...

anyone with any thoughts on this?

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Can't help with all your questions but here some answers

I also discovered today that it "may" have a crack in it but i cant take it out to check yet as it would mean turning off the heater and letting the thing cool down (which is bad for the poor already cold discus)... also, i have nothing suitable to replace it woth (a 200w aquaone...???)

It's important you check this as soon as possible, because it could be dangerous. You only need to wait a couple of minutes for the heater to cool down, the short time this whole operation will take (5-10 minutes) shouldn't see your temperature dropping at all.

i'm sure its not cracked (fingers crossed) else it would have exploded by now right? but it looks like it and I figure I better be safe then sorry and check some time soon once i get some replacement....

No heaters can crack and just sit there waiting to kill you. They wont explode, at most if the crack is bad the glass might come apart and fall off.

anyway, so thinking if it does need to be replaced (or if i need a speare, which I have afew already but nothing which would hold the 300L tank at 28 degrees)... maybe the jager would do well...

Use more than 1 heater, this is good practice any way in case your heater fails, two heaters should have no problems keeping your tank temperature up. Unless people have a number of tanks I don't understand why they keep a spare heater out of the tank, it makes far more sense to put it in the tank, even setting the temperature a degree lower than the other heater if you like so it only comes on when the other fails.

Have you added any insulation to the back (and sides) of your tank? A sheet of poly taped to the back can make a huge difference

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It's important you check this as soon as possible, because it could be dangerous. You only need to wait a couple of minutes for the heater to cool down, the short time this whole operation will take (5-10 minutes) shouldn't see your temperature dropping at all.

I'll check tonight.... My main concern was that if it was broken (or if I make it worst) then I cant put it back in to the tank... but I can totally see the flaw in this :-)

No heaters can crack and just sit there waiting to kill you. They wont explode, at most if the crack is bad the glass might come apart and fall off.

Good advice, I always assumed based on everyone elses posts that heaters would explode when they crack, else they would just stop working as they burn out....

with regards to insulation, will do that tonight... been putting it off for some time, I have the sheets and all but the pipes are in the way for me to correctly wrap the tank so I'll need to doscnnect the pipes... Sorry, I can see how slack I've been :-( committing time tonight

Also looking at getting another heater :-)

Thanks for the wake up call

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27'C is not cold for discus. They don't need to be kept that hot. I used to keep mine and breed them very successfully at 26-27'C. They also live longer and are generally more active and healthy due to the higher oxygen content at lower temperatures. You will be able to go several hours with no heater as well... You'll typically get 1-2 years longer life at 27'C over 30'C and the power bill is lower.

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