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Drilling an existing tank?


David R

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by useing a glass drill that we use in the trade, you need to get the tank under the drill and pack the other side so that presure can be applied for the drill piece to work. The chances of finding a drll machine that can fit a 2ft tank under it is small (mine would only take maybe 150mm) and the chances of breaking the glass are great. In my mind, you would be far better off trying to see if living arts system would work for you.

BTW, for drilling, the age of the glass makes little or no difference.

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Barrie, the only time I've seen glass drilled was using what looked like a router with a hole-saw type thing. Is that not normally how its done?

I'm not really keen on the idea of a PVC overflow like that, seems like a hard way of doing things, and much more potential for disaster if the syphon is broken. I think I'd rather go for a new tank than try set that system up on an existing one.

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Barrie, the only time I've seen glass drilled was using what looked like a router with a hole-saw type thing. Is that not normally how its done?

I'm not really keen on the idea of a PVC overflow like that, seems like a hard way of doing things, and much more potential for disaster if the syphon is broken. I think I'd rather go for a new tank than try set that system up on an existing one.

it is easier and safer than it looks :D

after getting parts took me 20 mins to cut and fit

syphon cannot be broken by pump stopping etc

drilled tank once with a piece of copper pipe and grinding paste took a long time and was bad on the nerves but it worked, found the overflow easier

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the way glass merchants drill tanks is with whats called a habit drill

The bit is a dimond ring that has water flowing through the centre of the bit to keep both the drill bit and the glass cooled.

There is a hand drill available but there simply isnt enough work for it to justify the $500 cost and its so much slower that there is not enough call for it

Im back at work from the 21st and your more that welcome to have a look

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living art what the lenght of pipe from each elbow on that system and size of the contaer use cheers ant ill try it.

the length is not critical, the main thing is to create a "U" shape to hold the syphon

syphon1bp2.jpg

needs to be at least 50mm under waterlevel

got the endcap and all parts from a plumbers shop

syphon2vc7.jpg

made the side box for ours out of glass

but anythhing deep enough to give you 100mm below waterlevel would be good

the outflow hieght from side box keeps the syphon secure

tried it on 2 buckets outside to make sure it worked

waihi isn't far from tauranga you should take a trip and see it in the flesh, so to speak

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ive just see that set up at living arts.and it reaily works and easy.nice one mark :wink:

also anyone coming to the bay of pelety should stop in and see all his set ups.nice works guys. :bow::bow:

also mark should listen to the apprentice a hes got some good idears and give him back hes coal :lol: :lol:

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Hi All.

Well, way back (35 years ago) we used to drill glass with a crude device that we made to do the job.

You could even use it in an ordinary everyday electric drill with variable speed to do the drilling.

We got a small piece of copper tube the diameter of the hole we wanted; we then got an engineering shop to "turn up" a mandrel to fit the inside diameter of the copper tube, and with a shaft to fit the drill ( about 8mm). This was then soldered (you could bronze it in) to the tube which then became the "DRILL" when the tube cut to about 25mm long.

The glass or tank was setup and a "PLASTICINE' dam was built around where the hole was to be drilled. This was filled with a mixture of "AUTOMOTIVE VALVE GRINDING PASTE AND WATER".

You then placed the "drill into the centre of the "dam" and began drilling.

This method still works today, but the glassiers find it easier and quicker to use the "Modern Technology.

Good Luck.

:bow:

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the minimun distance to the edge is recomended as no closer than 50% the dia of the hole.

To drill a hole, you need to have water around the hole. As amazon mentioned, build a ring around the area to be drilled and put water in it. A large rubber ring from one of the plastic places or silly putty could be used?

Drill the glass useing Carboundum (ps) powder as a paste and keep the drill straight up as you can break the glass if you move it around to much. As you get almost through the glass slow the downward presure on the drill or you can "break"through the other side causing shells and weakening the tank. Expect to spend a lot of time on this method.

To be honest, I personally would prefer to break the tank down and reglue it after having it drilled.

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cheers ant,

also what that fine gravel or sand in that cichlid tank.....{.gannets baby}

secert mix hehe :lol: :lol:

na its a mix of crushed coral sand, corlad balls, and agronite

back on topic now, its looks like there is alot of diff opinions out there i would say that breaking the tank down would be safer as barrie has said, but there will always be the renagaeds (sp) that wana try something new

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