Jump to content

Heater life


Deleatidium

Recommended Posts

I would expect a heater to last at least 10 years.

The heaterstats we have used have lasted quite a few years. If they are going to die they seem to do so within 1 to 2 years or keep going and going and going...

We have an undertank home-built heat pad with a thermostat which has been going about 10 years now with no problem.

The only other tank I have running has a heaterstat which must be at least 10 years old.

I doubt dearer ones last longer than cheaper versions. Indeed, the dearer ones can sometimes be so full of fancy circuitry there is more in them to go wrong!

Our heaterstats have all been run in a well insulated house so perhaps that makes a difference to their lifespan as they don't have to work so hard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most people seem to recommend replacing them every year or two. I don't think I would that often, they're pretty expensive. But I wouldn't want to go too long, too much at risk if they do fail and stick on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We are talking here about the cost of a heater against the cost of a tank full of fish. Is it really worth the risk relying on a heater that has worked for several years, or the thermostat for that matter, which can stick and practicaly boil your fish, which happened to me on one occasion.

Small low wattage heaters have to work twice as hard as bigger heaters to maintain an even temperature and therefor are on longer than a large one, so fitting a small heater in the hope of saving costs is foolish.

With the cold weather and sudden drops in temperature it doesn't take long for the temperature to drop in a tank if the heater fails.

In England during the winter months we used to cover our tanks overnight with old blankets to keep the heat in just in case there was a power failure (which occasionally could last for several hours) or a sharp drop in temperature. On tanks where the back and sides were not showing we would attach polystyrene sheets to conserve heat and reduce power costs.

In any event, it pays to have a heater and stat on hand, as procuring one in a rush could be a problem. :)

Regards

Pegasus (Bill)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The biggest problem with most heaters on the market is the contacts that open and close to apply power to the heater element. Since these contacts handle a fair bit of power, they tend to arc when making contact. Over time these contacts become pitted and at some point may weld themselves together when they arc which causes your heater to stick in the on postion. The obvious result is poached fish.

All my heaters have been modified to add a triac to the heater circuitry. With the triac installed, the contacts are only used to turn the triac on and off with very little power, which means no arcing. The power to the heater element is handled by the triac.

No high power to the contacts means no arcing, which means no contacts welded closed. The plans for this modification can be found in FAMA's For What Its Worth - Volume 1.

Virgil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few days ago my less than a year old Jager 50 watt heater that cost $60 and was heating a 30 L tank stopped going. On closer inspection the element had blown. Luckily only two guppies in tank at time. One died and the other now looks much happier in my 150 L tank. I am not impressed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There should be a warranty on the heater, 12 months from memory

Take it back to the store you purchased it from, if you dont have any luck there send Brooklands an Email... The should stand by what is reputed to be THE BEST heater on the market today

Cheers

/Bruce

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Added your link to the "Useful Links" Boban.

Must have overlooked it first time around.

Your remarks are uncalled for Ira and upon viewing the said site, yes, there are a few spelling mistakes, but the information given is basically sound. We all make typing errors, and there are many on these boards, but remarks of this nature about companies that rely on aquarists for their living are not needed on this forum.

Man, I hope that website is just a beta test, cause I would never buy or put much faith into a website with that many spelling errors.

This will probably cause another long discussion, but I feel as moderator of this section that you should either edit or remove your post, preferrably the latter.

Regards

Pegasus.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have done nothing to offend me so no apology is needed, and your "Opinions" as you put it are most welcome and valued to us all as long as they don't affect the livelyhood of a company like Brooklands or anyone else for that matter.

Your "remarks" were of a harmful nature, and this is the reason I asked you to remove your post, and I will do the same with my posts.

If you wish to continue this discussion please do so in the 2 hot to handle section as this is no place for a debate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ira,

If you would like test my work, each web page has the link at left bottom side "Validate Brooklands web site" to the W3.org. Try it.

Anyway, FNZAS forum is not a web design forum.

Welcom boban_nz, hope to see you here often.

I couldn't resist the challenge :wink:

http://validator.w3.org/check?uri=http: ... as.org.nz/

http://jigsaw.w3.org/css-validator/vali ... as.org.nz/

and you are right, let's talk about fish related things here.

Cees

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Cees,

Nice work :D but one warning on css :( . Line 133 . In addition, NN4.xx has a problem width code color: transparent for a table and td. Better option is “color: inheritâ€

Colour scroll+w3.org = sorry :-?

Ok, I am going to visit web design forum now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a brand of heater I've seen advertised in TFH that uses triacs. I don't know if it is available in NZ.

Virgil is right about the triacs. We use a slight variation of the triac at my work and they are ultra reliable. It is a good way to majorly increase the reliable life of a heater. The only big problem is making sure you get the same water seal once the heater is reassembled. You don't want to mess with water and 230V, -oooh nasty.

If anyone is interested in doing the mods, I can supply suitable triacs, - I'll even sell them to you at cost!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Finally I got myself to Wellington and took my less than a year old blown 50watt Jager heater back to Animates. I had the receipt and got a new 100 watt replacement. The price of heaters in NZ is odd. There are hardly any cheap ones and the difference in cost of different wattages is minimal to non existent. They had 100 watt Jagers at Animates and I asked if I could have one of those. They said sure but you will have to pay the difference. Thing is, the price was the same as a Jager 50watt and the guy thought that was odd but it has always been like that when I have looked at heater prices.

Is it best to buy the highest wattage heater that will fit in your tank or what?

How many people have two heaters in their tanks?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some people say that you shouldn't get more wattage than you need in case the heater sticks on it won't cook your fish. I guess they think you should have just barely enough to keep the tank at temp. I figure you might as well get the biggest if they're the same price, get your moneys worth.:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Ira

You said 'You might as well get your monies worth".

I dont think that if a shop sells you a 1000W heater for the price of a 50W one you'll take it. Because IF the contacts fuse, you surely fry the fish.

If you want reliability and safety, go for a quality electronics type. As Pegasus said, an expensive heater, even changed every few years is much cheaper and less traumatic than a tankful of dead fish.

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Suppose I am a bit of a pessimist over the winter months as I run two heaters in my tanks, one set at 76-78f and the secondary one set at 72-74f in case the main heater fails.

Suppose I'm taking the risk that they could both stick on full heat, but ....... :)

Bill (Pegasus)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bill

Chances are 1 in 1000000 that BOTH heaters stick. It does not matter how many heaters you've got. The point is , one should carefully choose the wattage. If you would live in the tropics where the temperature would be constant, you'll get away with a low wattage type. What you have to consider is the tank capacity AND how many degrees you want the aquarium to be ABOVE the ambient room temperature. A 1000W thermostaticly controlled roomheater will adequatly heat up a small room, providet the initial temperature is not too low. At 0 degrees you'll never ever heat up the room. On the other hand, the same type of heater has 10000W and should the thermostat fail, then hello lobster.

BFN Bill

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

trendy pets in chch are selling aqua vita heaters for $30 for 300 watt ,200 watt $25 100 watt$20,the owner said they where a cheaper range.i have one titaium or is stainless steel,not sure which but its heats very well ,much better than glass ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...