deeveus

Quick flick of the tank, click on link to download. http://209.245.59.183/Gimme/15716072/96 ... I_0645.AVI

I've personally done it to fresh before with just eliminating the salt content seing is consists of quite a lot. Get rid of that and there is no reason why you cant use it like I did. I'd use tank water from water change if you can in cycles unless you want to use aqua plus on it like I did. It worked and 6 months later the fish are still alive. I believe a small salinity content is good for the fish.

LOL!!!! For the bigger ones, you can borrow my electric reel which plugs into my boat below.

Some cities in Japan and the U.S have crazy speeds with some people getting 10mb per second downloads. Thats a decent movie in minutes. With my 2mb I can grab a movie in about an hour at about 700mb.

Yeah, but if that person has thoushands of dollars to build a tank like that, a couple of grand would be nothing.

2mb adsl

LOL, seems he isn't very good at answering questions either.

Sorry I took so long chimera.

The anemone is being fed a mussel. Over the past two days it was eaten 3. I have no idea what it is called, it was sent with my crays when I purhcased them. Round flat objects? I presume you mean greenshell mussels?

Full pics will come tomorrow, mrs has my camera and she's out. I am storing the live mussels in the tank, keep them fresh for when feeding time comes around

Feeding:

Heater is still in there, and when it was setup was holding all the wiring going into the tank.

Indeed Ira. A auction determines the market price of such and there is plenty of people online on trademe to determine a fair price. If you can't pay or aren't committed to a sale, then don't bid. It's as simple as that.

Just watching them again, and they are acrobats over the rocks, amazing how they can move so fast over them. Also notice a little play, with one flying half way up the tank a couple of times.

Crays are in the tank, and so far I have noticed a huge amount of activity more so with the lighting system off. However, talking with my supplyer on the phone says that if you feed them at the right time, the will however change their cycle's to suit as they are deemed scavangers. Pics are all taken at the same time which shows both crays and the coral after 11 hours of being put in the tank. Will be more updates as I add to the tank.

Yes indeed Pies, he has surely lost his game... literally

More photo's of the cray fish tomorrow when they arrive.

Very nice indeed. I miss keeping neons but my bala shark was eating them, or atleast thats where I thought they were going. Bala shark was fine for about 6 months, then they disappeared one by one, after replacing the neons a couple of times, I gave up. Nice tanks mate, like the landscaping in the african tank. Thumbs up.

Hey Chikan. Thanks for the advice, I am to do a 20litre water change per week and my tank is 130litres and with a trickle filter and protein skimmer. I was a little unsure when he said that 20 litres would be ok. P.S Have you got any pics and recommendations of communities?

For cray's: Crayfish Holding instructions Aquatic Enterprises ltd Ó. Introduction. Crayfish are oceanic animals. The marine environment they live in is rich in oxygen, low in ammonia, nitrite, CO2 and suspended solids. I use these parameters and they are well within the survival range. Parameters outside of these ranges will stress the guys out and they may not show signs of stress right away. Water Quality Parameters Parameter Range Temperature >9 <19 pH >7.9 and <8.4 Salinity Between 32 and 36 mg/L Oxygen 80% saturation Nitrite (NO2) <0.1mg/L Nitrate (NO3) <23mg/L Ammonia (NH3) < 0.5 mg/L Temperature The temperature these guys live in is close to 9C in winter and a high of 19 in the summer. This animal is extremely robust if you have a chiller. If you do not have a chiller unit keep tank out of direct sunlight and away from heaters and fires. They are not like tropical fish and can be sensitive to temperature spikes. Gradual changes are better. Temperature changes in the ocean are gradual. Salinity Ensure you slat water source is not close to any fresh water run off if you are using sea water. Try and collect the salt water from clean source. Fresh water can sit on the top of sea water if it has been raining heavily so deeper is better. Try and avoid sediment. Salts can be purchased from pool shops if you intend making you own. The measurement ppt is the same as mg/L and means parts per thousand. Knowing this can help in your calculations of water salinity levels. The best tool for measuring this is a refractometer (makes the job easy). If mixing your own salt water with town supply you will need to make sure you either use rain water or get rid of the chlorine component. Chlorine can be removed by aerating or using chemical sodium thiosulphate. pH, Nitrite, ammonia pH, nitrite and ammonia test kits are available from most pet stores. Ammonia and Nitrite can be a lethal combination if they occur together. If your tank is new your water should be changed regularly in the first couple of weeks. Oxygen Oxygen is very important. Equipment for this expensive so as a rule of thumb you need to make sure you have plenty of water movement. When water becomes warm the fish need more Oxygen because there will be less in water. Dissolved Organic matter The water should be changed before it becomes brown and foamy this is a sign water quality deterioration. Overfeeding will help cause this. Feeding Crayfish farming in new Zealand currently relies on fresh mussels for the diet. Mussels are considered a complete diet for crayfish though they may vary in condition seasonally. Some prawn pellets are used successfully in their culture but should be supplemented with mussels at least once per week. Oily fish are also a good protein source. Substrate Crayfish are cryptic and prefer to have hiding places. Clean rocks can be placed in the tank so as the animals have a place to hide. Try and create some water movement around the tank so that there are no dead spots for the water to stagnate. Tank size Your tank size is not as important as your water quality monitoring. Literature values suggest that 0.15kg/L can be held. The small animals are about 25g (0.025 kg). Obviously it is easier to maintain water quality parameters in a larger tank. I would suggest a minimum tank set up of 20 litres and an under gravel system and an airlift pump. Have plenty of Air if you have no protein skimmer. Final note The above guide is designed to aid the aquarist in caring for their pet. If all the water parameters for this pet are met there is no reason the pet shouldn’t live for thirty years or more. As a general note if in doubt change the water. If you have all the tools for measuring parameters there is less doubt. Be good to your pets and good luck.

Cheers for the input. Learned by myself further, a detailed email from the provider of my crayfish. This is how he operates his holding systems and breeds in these environments: Paua Holding instructions Aquatic Enterprises ltd Ó. Introduction. Paua are oceanic animals. The marine environment they live in is rich in oxygen, low in ammonia, nitrite, CO2 and suspended solids. I use the listed parameters below and they are well within the survival range. Parameters outside of these ranges may stress the guys out without showing signs of stress right away. Water Quality Parameters Parameter Range Temperature 9 -19deg c pH >7.9 and <8.4 Salinity Between 32 and 36 mg/L Oxygen 80% saturation Nitrite (NO2) <0.1mg/L Nitrate (NO3) <23mg/L Ammonia (NH3) < 0.5 mg/L Temperature The temperature these guys live in is close to 9C in winter and a high of 19 in the summer. Salinity Ensure you slat water source is not close to any fresh water run off if you are using sea water. Try and collect the salt water from clean source. Fresh water can sit on the top of sea water if it has been raining heavily so deeper is better. Try and avoid sediment. Salts can be purchased from pool shops if you intend making you own. The measurement ppt is the same as mg/L and means parts per thousand. Knowing this can help in your calculations of water salinity levels. The best tool for measuring this is a refractometer (makes the job easy). If mixing your own salt water with town supply you will need to make sure you either use rain water or get rid of the chlorine component. Chlorine can be removed by aerating or using the chemical sodium thiosulphate. pH, Nitrite, ammonia pH, nitrite and ammonia test kits are available from most pet stores. Ammonia and Nitrite can be a lethal combination if they occur together. If your tank is new your water should be changed regularly in the first couple of weeks. Oxygen Oxygen is very important. Equipment for this expensive so as a rule of thumb you need to make sure you have plenty of water movement. When water becomes warm the fish need more Oxygen because there will be less in water. Dissolved Organic matter The water should be changed before it becomes brown and foamy this is a sign water quality deterioration. Overfeeding will help cause this. Feeding Paua farming in New Zealand currently relies on artificial food imported from Australia or natural seaweed diets. Keep the food refrigerated to protect the vitamins. Generally the feed should be presented in the evening so as nutrient components don’t leach out of the food. As a guide when feeding, their should be little food left over in the morning. Around 2% body weight per day is the recommended dose. Two or three pellets to start with should be fine. Clean old pellets out every two to three days to maintain water quality. Substrate Paua are cryptic and prefer to have hiding places. Clean rocks can be placed in the tank so as the animals have a place to hide. Try and create some water movement around the tank so that there are no dead spots for the water to stagnate. Large flat rocks are good for Paua. Sometimes they are a little to good at hiding. Handling Paua Paua have no blood clotting mechanism so can bleed to death if cut. When handling paua use a non serrated butter knife. Alternatively if you are fast enough you will not need a knife. Slide the paua rather then pulling at it. You will get better with practice. Final note The above guide is designed to aid the aquarist in caring for their pet. If all the water parameters for this pet are met there is no reason the pet shouldn’t live for thirty years or more. As a general note if in doubt change the water. If you have all the tools for measuring parameters there is less doubt. Be good to your pets and good luck.

I take it you guys sell fish for a living and want to write off a percentage of your powerbill?

No, it would not be 18 all the time. During the day when no one is here, it would be quite cold - old house - no insulation and very drafty. This should balance the temp.

Good idea, will be quite interesting once your bill arrives to see what kind of power your tanks are using. I myself has always wondered.

Hey pies. The person I purchased them off says that they can survive in temperatures up to 25 degrees seing as that is paua's spawning temp, as for a cold Dunedin's house, temp shouldn't be a problem. Ofcourse it will be monitored but I know people who keep cold marine here in dunedin and a chiller has never been needed.