Alan

What a huge threat to the environment they'd be. More idiot ideas to justify their sitting on a cushy chair. Alan 104

That statement makes me think of the cheese ad. It takes time, for a tank to break, but one day, it will, and with tragic results. Not only to the furniure, but to the inhabitants in the tank. But have you thought of what happens when the tank finally goes?? Glass shards absolutely can go flying, anyone in the way could potentially gets sliced up. Think of an inquisitive baby, tapping at a fish in the tank possibly with it's bottle. I had a tank 1.2 x .5 x .5, 6mm thick, braced both ends and centre. Went out to the fish room one morning, years after it was made, to find my prized 125mm silver dollar school all over the floor of the fishroom, the floor was flushed clean with a sediment of gravel now coating it, and the tank shattered, top to bottom front pane. There were large dangerous shards of glass pieces scattered about. The only good thing was that I wasn't near it when it went. I swore I'd never go above 450mm for another 1.2er, and then I'd use the Euro bracing. You were lucky this time Rogan, you may not be next time. If you have used the cross bracing as it was before, I'd suggest that you put a 50mm piece under each side of the centre brace, on it's flat, and up against the outside glass, this will double the area of glue holding it. Also, the centre brace can easily be broken with something dropped on it; to help prevent this, a piece of glass, 50mm wide glued underneath the brace, on edge, front to back, will act as a strong back for it. The reasoning behind both these, is that if the joint or brace fail while the tank is full, then a huge sudden stress hits the glass, and it will probably fail at a 45o angle from one of the remaining braces. Alan 104

and too many as well. Alan 104

You night owls. Good one Zoban, now all ya have to do is start breeding them. Good luck with that, and I'm sure you'll get help here with how to do it, if you of course need help. If you could do some pics of them, that would be real kewl, as Stu says, we have not got that species down this way. YET. Alan 104

DID YOU CUT THAT BRACE WITH THE TANK FULL??????????????? If you did you are bluddy lucky to get away with it. Drop your water straight away, if not sooner if it is still full. Alan 104

I wrote this for Northlandchic in her post. I'd still go for it with yours too Paul. I have never seen the C.delphax on any lists, but I have the C. melanistus. Alan 104

Looks like someone "made him an offer he couldn't refuse" Alan 104

When a body of water becomes green, it can then absorb a lot more temperature from the sun than it normally would. We all know what the sunny BoP is like, and you'd only need one GOOD day, and the temperature could have shot way over the top. That's my tuppence worth anyway. I know, I lost an outside tank like that, and the fish. Alan 104

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/prod923.htm Check it out here Alan 104

Way ta go Paul. You sure as hell don't muck around with taking pics do ya. Definately NOT C. julli. Alan 104

OK. I recall a cory breeder explaining the difference to me a few years back. Most of the "similars" that we see are either C.trilineatus or C. leopardus. He told me that the true C. julli have got "scriggles" on it's head. If you go to this site http://www.petresources.net/fish/catfish/cor_jul.html you will see what I mean by "scriggles" Hope this helps. As asked before, see if you can get some good head shots showing the marks Paul. Now if you go to this site http://www.scotcat.com/factsheets/c_trilineatus.htm you'll see that what I just said above is wrong. I really do think that the C. julli is the finer spotted one as in the last link. Alan 104

Yikes!! Don't go on Axelrod as a tru reference. I saw a pic of the Lace gourami UPSIDE down in his book. There are lots of other errors as well, but that was the most amusing. I use it as a general reference only. I would think Caryl with her B books, would be able to help out here. Maybe she could do a scan of them both and put them up here for reference. Alan 104

Another way would be to not feed them for four days or so, then try a LITTLE bit of the tubifex, it will pollute badly if you over feed I'm picking. Alan 104

I use an immersion heater, about 1000watt, for a heat up of a tank like that. Works well. But don't leave it while you're heating it with fish in. I paid the price and cooked my pacus. :evil: Alan 104

Are they the REEL THING or are they the irradiated ones?? If a fish has never seen a type of food before and it is use to flakes or woteva, then they'll stick with what they know and just have nibbles on the other and then maybe convert over to YOUR choice. Alan 104

Keep it nice please . Thankyou Alan 104

Is the hatch rate low because of those stupid little BS eggs baggies WITH salt?? Probably not stored correctly in the first place. Or has someone tried them out with "fresh" eggs stored in the frig?? Also with NSW?? Alan 104

Yep, my money is on a female. Note the rounded dorsal fin and the tummy shape. Alan 104

WHAT R U SUGGESTING Stu??? Na, bet you have a current flow from the male to female. My red devils did that from behind a grill, hence their names of Mary and Joseph. Alan 104

Radican Sword or Giant Radican Do a search on GOOGLE and you'll find it links with lots of others, quite confusing really. Alan 104

I agree with your sentiments of being a pain in the proverbial. One way to do it is to take off the brace, and use strips at right angles, on the top of the front and back, running legthwise. This will cut down the width of the top but at least it will replace that PITB cross brace. Personally, I'd take it off and not worry about it. Alan 104

Hi there Jim, nice to have met you the other arvo. I have converted a garden shed (State house type) into my mini fish room. When I moved it I put in a concrete floor with drainage in case of spills. Then as the years went by I realized the cost of heating could almost be eliminated by using some solar panels I just happened to have lying around. So I used PVC piping, about 30mm, id., and made a maze of it using differing lengths and elbows. This was placed on the floor that had a layer of 12mm polystyrene on it then 50mm of concrete poured over the lot. The theory is that during the day, the water circulating thru the pipes heats the concrete that acts as a heat storage that release it's heat at night. It has not been finished yet as I have found that with the killies, I don't need a sweat box to work in and with over 50mm of poly on the walls, and the fluros going I don't need to go onto that at the moment. But who knows, I may change my fish keeping ways one day. Alan 104

I believe that the reason for that is that they did not get the initial food from off the sides of the parents, similar to what the discus do, only angels are not so reliant on the slime for survival. Alan 104

I really can't understand that statement Sharn when you take into consideration that some killifish species live in their own small area, so therefore inbreeding all the time. Laying their eggs into the bottom of the pond then it drying out, raining and the eggs hatch, and then the siblings going for it all over again. Maybe in such a small environment of an aquarium that problem could arise. Alan 104

Have a look here http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Oddball ... dgeons.htm Alan 104