caserole

If you move the vac in a deliberate slow manner i'm sure they will bugger off, and siphon into a bucket and check for fry before dumping. There are many out there that have thrown the babyies out with the bath water only to see them as the gurgle down the plug hole :oops: to late.

COOL, Well done. :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: I have breed many species but you still get that felling when breeding something for the first time

Yeah it was good, Had heeps of fun, thanks KAPITI-MANA.

That means 1 thing then It is outside my species knowlage :lol: Hopefuly someone else will be able to help you.

WOW looks great :oops: What happened to the pic's?? :lol:

What kind of cichlid was it, There is Nanacara, a dwarf south american cichlid. This link provides a list to some nanacara, click name to see pic's http://www.fishbase.org/NomenClature/.. ... p=contains

yes it is ok to treat in main tank, just increase airation

:lol: I did say don't muck about If you temp is 27C just treat with Methylene blue 1%, treatment method is on the bottle. Do 30% water change per day with water at the same temp as tank and top up with Methylene blue 1%. Keep this up untill disease is gone + a few days. P.S don't miss the water changes, gravel syphon at the sametime every day or second day. This will help remove 1 of the cycles of white spot that can not be treated.

Oh no, @#$%^&* dearest Tana in red and black. Not in a MILLION YEARS even if hell freezes over will that come true. :bounce: :bounce: Tana rules, with Jerry a close second :bounce: :bounce:

The / an organism can be already there waiting for a weak fish or you can introduce it. I have a multi tank system, the uv helps alot but nathing is full proof after all people make mistakes Don't misunderstand what I just said I serive my uv properly every year and I would not be with out it!!!! Even if you do get a problem in one tank the uv will reduce the chance of it getting into another tank, I introduced white spot not long after I got uv in my filtration it didn't spread to other tanks. I did end up having to isolate that tank for treatment but better that then have 1000 lt to treat with large water changes dayly

I only use cold water from the tap. never worry about temp or conditioner. but then again I only do a 5 to 10% change per day. My prob is I don't chill the tanks enough, when ever I do the cory's splater eggs all over the place.

Hi back at ya Alice and WELCOME Sorry to here your starting with Guppys. Many people with a bad case of MTS started off with just a 2' tank of tho's guys. :lol: GOOD LUCK

Ryan said You could put a super fine layer of sand in the tank to help settle them down, remove it once they have spawned same time you remove the adults?? I don't remember you ever saying what temp you keep the south americans at but if its really hot 28 to 30C a barebottom tank should'nt matter, maybe a clump of moss in front of the spawning stone would help too.

I don't really understand Ryan. If you have a tank to grow the fry you have a tank to breed the adults,unless you can't catch them :lol: Sorry I have no ideas on how to move them with out major damage.

I recon you should go for it Wok after all what will Caryl do?? Hit you with her hand bag :lol: :lol: Think I'll run for cover now.

Tsarmina said It increases there metabolic rate = they don't last as long. Neons can live for years and years(5 I think but don't quote me) :lol: Thats why cardinals are recommened for discus tanks over neons.

You do have a proble there as neons like there temp between 18 and 22C. Increasing the temp to 30C to kill the W/S is quit a risk of cause you don't mention what temp the tank is right now. :-? Asuming the tank is around 22 to 24C I would increase temp to 26C treat with Methylene blue(not the green as it has been know to kill tetra's) with between 10% and 30% (same temp water)water change per day and top up med's, all salt does is produce body slim which helps but salt won't cure. Treat whitespot aggressively, there's no point mucking around!!!! GOOD LUCK

Yes you need less uv to kill algae were as what I do is kill 97% of all life form in the water before it hits the tanks making the chance of whitespot or what ever emigrating from tank to tank very low, imagine having to treat 4000lt for whitespot doing a 30% water change per day no thanks

I don't know whether 2watts per 1000lt is correct or not but uv will not work properly if the water passes by the bulb to fast not giving adequate contact time. The spec's on any potental unit will tell you what that is. I run a 40watt uv unit for 4000lt system with no prob's, but you really do need to change that bulb when it's due.

The problem I found with having a large tetra tank is the quantity of fish you need to make it look good, it can be expencive. I got around that by buying a pair of all the tetra I wanted and breed them to fill the tank :lol:

Not 100% sure.

just thinking about it, you say you got them with instead of hongsloi. If thats the case they are the the blue colour form as they were in the same system.

:lol: Thats a good idea Caryl, what would we do with out you see you on the weekend.

Sorry again antwan I know from breeding a few tetras not all need blacked out tanks. but theres a hole in my knowlage regarding whether rummynose need to be blacked out or not.

hmm do rummynose need there tank blacked out?? I know cardinal eggs and nyph are not light tolerant.