henward

yeah, considering getting one. but maybe not, not sure.

thats right i have to replace my filterwool ever 2 to 3 weeks when i had full capacity. i had fine filterwoola t the top, and bio media two bottom. but now, i think once a month replace filter wool as the tank doesnt get anywhere near as much poo. depends. how ryan runs it, he doesnt put fine filter pad so it will do the bio filtration and course filtration of debris but fine particles will be around. me, i have an obsessionw ith clarity - so i put fine pad. to change it, i just lift cover replace wool and shut, i can do one fx5 in 1 to 2 minutes literally. i dont wash sponges for at least 4 to 5 months, maybe 6y months if flow is still good after filterwool is replacxed. as for bio media, i rinse the bio media with the old tank water (to not kill any bacteria) to dislodge debris after i clean the course pads in it, so every 4 to 6 months i overhaul the canister filter and fully take everything out. low maintenance is my thing

What is the purest white oscar, not much colouring on it? is there such a thing as a no pigment oscar?

yeah, the system took me 10 mins to set up and 6 bux lol so i guess took the easy way out:d its cool to see the effects at night. i will video a day and night vid. i dont think my camera will take good vids at night though

i recently installed a DIY moonlight. all i did was use my exo terra reflector and a 12w energy saving bulb that turns on after lights out. i covered most of the bulb so its a small light - looks amazing, a yellowish moon like tinge, you can see most fish sleeping but th eplecos come alive, as well as the TT eel and the ghost knives and nocturnal fish! now i can watch my fish day AND night :bounce:

i have 3 fx5.... LOVE THEM! :thup: i find that i fill the 2 bottom trays with bio media (if you use eheim efi substrat, use a stocking back) i have had osme slip into the impeller and slows down the turnover, doesnt damage just slows it down as it gets caught anyways. if you use noodles or similar, no problems. then the top tray i just put a 30cm by 30cm size filterwool.... i cut in half and fold each piece into halves . this works extremely well for me, keeps water extremely clear by putting bio media at the two bottom, you will find it slightly slows down the turnover but with the amount of media, it counteracts that effect anyways with maximum conversion.

what is the frontosa temprament? just wondering say just 1 in a tank

The very top is mechanical. all mechanical debris should be removed as much as possible before entering the second chamber. the second chamber should be purely bio filtration. so the water passing thorugh should be AS CLEAN AS POSSIBLE. of course its not perfect but after the mech stage, whcih is at the top to make it easier for cleaning and removal, the bio follows. the mechanical and bio filter media is contained in waht is called THE TOWER. The SUMP itself is for heaters, return pump and dosing what eve ryou dose, etc. and also can contain extra bio media, judging by the size of your second chamber, you filling that with bio media will be sufficient, even half that as you have 4x aqua one 1200s. the key is this before the water flow flows through the mech filter, it must be diffused or else it will only push crud down into the bio media. a course sponge (whcih you already have) and a filter wool sponge whcih you also demonstrate you have will suffice, but you will need something else to diffuse the water coming donw from the tank. That should be a tupperware or i personally use SYSTEMA blue containers with holes drilled. its cheap, its not crispy plastic and can be drilled and durable. I will show you tomorrow - text me 11 ish

i would approch this differently

i want a white or albino oscar, but dont know mcuh bout it. any oscar avail in nz taht have little to no colour./ what type should i get, i want it to look white/albino. any oscars breed to look for .... some reds are fine but i had one that was 99% orange-red. i want it the other way round, speckles of colour is fine, but rather most of the body is white/albino

anyone here used it? does it work? ia m trying to train my Vip Red into eating pellets, and just wondered if its worth buying or just continue to pellet train normally?

yeah but there is to be a maximum 10degrees difference with ambient temp vs desired water temp though my garage is insulated, its still cold, it snot in the house. tahts my problem. i think my problem is also that i have 2x 1200litres in one system. when i get rid of my other 1200litre fromt he sysetm, the temp will be pefect and easily managed

your aro is just stressed. from the move, maybe new tank mates and new tank. i would suggest the following 1) black out back, and sides, leave only the front. if youw ant the sides to be clear, then take off cover later, let it adjust first. 2) sitting on ground is stress for aros, all aros sit when stressed or scared. i would seei f anyone attacks it and remove them 3) bright light can affect arowanas, plants to hide under would or coudl work but in my opinion, they also see outside whcih can stress them out. like a small red light can stress them out, or sun shining through from outside in can do so and spook them. from my experience, bright lights can also help stop them from easily seeing outside. jsut like us, if its bright inside and dark outside, we cant see out, if its dark inside bright outside we see out. somaking it bright inside, can stop them seeing outside and almost not notice the outside as much. 4) water params. you moved to a bigger tank, hows filter capacity? checked water params? severums can be very active, might jsut need to get used to them. apart from that, maybe just time will heal its confidence

thats right ih ave 4 of them. no choice. water volume dictates it.

yeah good idea. will do that.

yeah i found hat int he past too. it did slwoly lose accuracy. i think hats why they let you re calibrate it. ill et another thermometer. but i have all my thermometers saying the same thing even analogue ones. ill have a look, i may take one heater out and put it into a bucket of water and see what temp it brings it up to and calibrate from there.

yeah, temp is dropping, use to keep it at 28 no problem not its about 26 to 27 during the days. i really want the temp to be 28. i find that is better for my set up. i may re measure water and just move each individual heater up a notch problem is that i dont nkow which heater needs more moving up the temp, i may move one and the other may not needi t. thats why i was thinkingo f calibrating all of it.

yeah may try that then. need to bring temp up back to 28

my 2x 1200Litre has 4x 300w jagers. last year, it heated to 28 no problems. i hae a feeling that they have been uncalirated. in time i know heaters do that, well i found them to do that. how do i calibrate jager heaters? i dont wanna just keep pushing temp up on the heaters and adjust manually like that. or should i? if someone knows details instructions of calibrating - best method, need help!

i tried tracking him down but no luck! i would buy a shovel nose with no hesitation!

still settling in, ill get a vid soon. if its eats tomorrow, ill take a vid. it ate today - not as much as i wanted to but a good amount. ill take a video if it eats tomorrow.

i see, interesting

white looks more natural to me but is there a scientific reason for blue? like reptiles cant see red or something...

im looking at all the LED and deepblue has a small one whcih is suitable. but why is it always BLUE lights? is there something special about the blue colour that fish dont see?

why blue light? not a dim white or yellow light?