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cracker

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Everything posted by cracker

  1. cracker

    white spot

    BE WARNED THAT SOME OF THE KNOWLEDGE IN YOUR LOCAL FISH STORE IS LIMITED. IT IS BETTER TO CHECK WITH AN EXPERIENCED REEFER, SUCH AS ON THIS SITE. FISH STORES DO HAVE STAFF THAT JUST WANT TO SELL LIVESTOCK AND WILL TELL YOU WHAT YOU WANT TO HEAR.
  2. cracker

    white spot

    Comparing WS with MV, (Marine velvet). If you are unfortunate enough to add a fish with MV there is not much you can do except sit back and net out the dead fish and wait and see which are the strongest. MV kills fish within 48 hours and will kill a large number of species. I have been unfortunate enough to have had this also! When buying fish, it is important to make sure MV is not apparent, if you are not sure ask someone who knows. It is not worth the risk. If WS is apparent and you know you have fish in your system that are immune, it is not so bad, but MV is LETHAL.
  3. cracker

    white spot

    To get your tank supplied with ALL the fish YOU want to add, You WILL lose fish to WS on the way. be prepared, only the strongest will survive. It is nature.
  4. cracker

    white spot

    White spot is the worst issue an aquarist has to deal with. Stop parasite seems to work in a tank ONCE. The tank seems to become immune after the first dose. If you have never dosed it before it will more than likely work. This is from experience and from reading other peoples success/failure stories. If you have used it before in your tank, it probably wont work again. MY THEORY: White spot is EXTREMELY difficulkt to control and I believe you will never cure it until you STOP adding fish. Since aquarists are generally always adding fish, (Due to not having finished their setup, or due to replacing fish) White spot canmnot be controlled. White spot will vanish from a system only when you stop adding fish to it. You may be lucky and add fish without WS, but it is more common to add it, especially with clowns and tangs and a few other species. WS cannot be seen in the early stages and fish that are already immune will be carriers, but will not show ANY signs. MY ADVICE: Forget quarantining fish unless you are prepared to do it for a MINIMUM of 6 weeks. If so, you will probably be fine. THE REALISTIC WAY. Add fish no more than 2 at a time and wait at least 3 months between doing so. This will allow ALL fish within the tank to acclimate to the WS and battle it at their own pace. After this 3 month period, ALL the fish that are still alive will be immune and good strong fish. The ones that die were never strong enough for your system anyway. TWO STEPS FORWARD, HALF A STEP BACK. If you are wanting to add very delicate fish such as WS prone tangs such as Powder blues, Browns and Clown tangs etc, It should be designed that these are the LAST fishes to be added and if adding more than one of these delicate fishes, they should be added together. It would also be advisable to get them from the same supplier that have been in the same tank water as each other. This ensures they will not give each other WS if from seperate systems. Once these delicate fishes are added, it is possible to kill them very quickly by adding other fish. If you add another fish with WS, (visable or not), the new delicate additions will rapidly develop WS and more than likely die very quickly. In the ocean, WS can be diluted within seconds due to the mere size of it. Once in you tank, you are screwed until immunity takes place. THE ONLY SUREFIRE WAY TO REMOVE IT IS THROUGH IMMUNITY. The addition of garlic may help with speeding up immunity also, but will not CURE it. I have lost nearly 12 fish in all due to WS and have learned by experience. I hope this helps. Craig
  5. Mmmm... So adding iodine is a way to get both then?
  6. cracker

    UNBELIEVABLE

    Keep scrolling, you will be blown away.
  7. cracker

    UNBELIEVABLE

    I know some of you have seen this tank before, but it is almost impossible in my eyes. Does anybody know this mans english version? http://www.hausriff.ch/4534/108355.html
  8. I dont think it is any of those either. iodine is dosed not iodide. Not sure where you get the pottasium portion layton.
  9. That would depend whether it was Pottasium iodide or sodium iodide.
  10. so are you reverting back to 150 watt then steve?
  11. (better add the smiley or you might think im a nobhead... :roll:
  12. You dont need 400 watters then. My ACRO bank is directly under the 250 watt hallide and my tank is 600mm and they're doing great. You should come have a look you slackarse.
  13. Chim..... that has transformed your tank, I didnt realise you were only running 150's. Im running 2 x 400's and a 250. Awesome dude...you should notice a massive difference. Looks MUCH better.
  14. cracker

    Skimmer Decisions

    skimmer designs are calculated for certain size tanks. overdoing it pointless
  15. cracker

    Skimmer Decisions

    400 litre system... you should be running something small but with pulling power. deltec 1250 turbo will be perfect. Awesome skimmers..I run two. an AP is too big I reckon and a waste of money.....Im presuming it is more expensive...check with REEF, he will be able to tell you the difference.
  16. looking good chim. how do you keep the back so clean?
  17. But then again it will probably be expensive!! do you know what the price will be set at?
  18. I will be keen to try a kit out and test it. Pm me when available please. Cheers Craig
  19. My kits always read the same. (STR and Ca) Double check you are doing it right.
  20. I can get it for you, but it is very expensive to test for. NSW has the correct amount here in NZ. The depletion rate is minor.
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