suphew

Is you return pointing down the tank? If so I would just try one pump at the other end and on a timer, this will give some randomish flow. If your return is going into a spray bar, or is small, etc i.e. not creating significant flow itself, I would add another pump also on a timer. I think most people that use pumps place them where they can be seen least and have best affect. It's hard to judge how your anemone will react to the flow and light, it will move itself to be where it wants, the best you can do is have an idea what it will like and try and create this where you want it to end up. Then cross fingers.

The shrimp in your sump will more likely be misid (sp?) shrimp not baby cleaner shrimp. While in the planktonic stage they would be free swimming, not crawling round.

Mine clean my hands to if I put them in the tank, saves on soap :lol:

Unless it is normal standard glass I'll be surprised if they can cut or drill it, cause it will shatter. I had a friend who worked in the glass business and he told me the cut/drill etc the glass and then heat treat it to harden it because once it's done you cant work with it. Boro-silicate may be different.

If you can take the female out and put her in the sump and the male back in the main tank (once he has recovered a bit), this will allow him time to get settled in and will put her on the back foot. I suggested this to a friend once and it would have worked really well, but his girl friend didn't like being locked in the basement

Oh and Gregb, you get my vote for 'you are a dick'. I quite like the off the wall humour at times on this site, but at least make it witty.

I have only been in the hobby since 2004, well after Reef and the others were importing (as far as I know) and just before Steve/Nick started, I have seen prices drop alot since then.

Impossible question to answer really because it depends so much on what you want to keep (more so than the size of the tank, to a large degree). There are a number of threads here where local prices are discussed, in theory it's possible to set up a very basic fish only tank for $500-$1000 but most people generally aren't happy to stay fish only and if you start off this way with very cheap equipment you'll end up having to replace most of it so you can keep corals.

Where in NZ are you laffnz? Water bottles wont work, they don't work are well as fans, and fans only drop the temp by 3-4 degrees, unless you plan on keeping the tanks room under 20 degrees you wont ever get it cool enough.

Oh and keep an eye on your corals, if they do die you dont want them rotting in the tank, I would remove them if they start looking bad

The glass smashed on one of my lights a couple of weeks ago, while I was at work, I turned it off as soon as I got home but I still lost a couple of hard corals and the leathers in the tank shead a couple of layers of skin. I don't think the type of glass is important but if you have the glass close to the light it needs to be able to handle the heat. The glass I broke was like the old style safety glass and ended up in lots of tiny bits. I'm not sure why your bi-colour would be affected and not the other fish but I guess they can get sunburn like anything else and the bi-colour is more likely to spend more time near the top of the tank than the shrimps or clowns.

Good luck getting my tank through customs...

I aways injected my CO2 into the start of the return hose, after the filter and motor. You don't need to use the motor to mix in the CO2 the trip up the return tube does the job nicely. However if you are doing yeast CO2 I wouldn't reccommend doing the filter thing, IMO theres too much risk of either water flowing back up the CO2 tube and causing problems or the injector acting like a venturi and sucking yeast mixture.

Yep look forward to some eggs soon. They will be laid on the rock that they are cleaning by biting. (assuming the male is interested in doing his part). The sad news is that the babies are impractical (and almost impossible) to raise due to their feeding requirements and in a community tank will be live food for the other fish and corals.

$193 sound ok to me, the wholesale rate (i.e. direct from the maker and the same price as he sells to shops) is $1 per liter + holes, yours is 270l (if my calulater is right), so that price with holes but not glued up seem pretty right to me.

I have alway had total success using kalk, if the rock is in the tank I give it a wee drop in its mouth which makes it pull back into its hole then cover the whole hole with kalk paste. If I can take the rock out I just cover the whole apst and let the kalk dry for a minute or so, so that it doesn't blow off when it goes back in the tank. I have yet to see one survive.

Pete at port nick glass in Wlg charges $1 per liter plus a small charge for holes (basically he rounds it to the nearest hundred or so to charge for holes). This is for standard sometimes secondhand glass. It doesn't matter what thickness glass or what shape etc you want.

You could try grinding up 1/4 of a dog worming tablet and mixing it with their food. This will kill and worms and parasites, I used to do this with all my new fish and the whole tank once a year or so.

Moving the water wont help the cycle at all, there is very little bacteria in the water. It will however make the switch over easier for your fish because the water parameters will be similar. But I would still acclimatise the fish to the new tank same as if they had just come from the LFS. Also don't move them all at once, even through you might have helped the cycle along by getting the filter going in your old tank the new tank will still not have as much bacteria in it as it needs for a full load of fish and the sudden increase in waste could cause the same problems as a non-cycled tank just not as bad.

Pies mite still have cyclop-eeze to sell, he purchased a box of tins to save $ but a tin lasts ages, I got two tins have been feeding around 1-2 times a week for 6 months and still haven't put a dent in the first tin.

I dont do water changes in my pond, thats what rain is for. If we have a long dry spell (not often in Wlg) I put the hose in on low for a hour or so. But my water is pretty green some people like clear water in their ponds, IMO it doesn't look natural and I don't want the hassle but each to his own. If you want clear water you really need to get a UV filter and add a big filter, a container full of standard filter media attached to the input of your pond pump will work.

You have to adjust the fish etc to the water anyway, just like fresh water. Even if you got water from the same place as the fish by the time its in your tank, the temp, PH, etc etc will all be different anyway.

I have about 1000kg on my floor now, that was built in 1846 (yes 18 ). Dont worry about it. The way I think about it 600kg = 6 largish guys, if you had a party would you even think about 6 guys and there girlfriends dancing, jumping up and down next to each other on your floor?? couse not, the building codes rates floors and something like 800kg per square meter. And lastly has any one ever heard of a tank actually going through a floor??

I got one of the first ones, I think that makes all the difference. They seem to have gone down hill.

I have been lucky enough to see both (Syd and Mel) with-in the last year, Syd is better, but mel is well worth the visit. Really the only disappointing thing with melbourne was the lack of corals in any tanks. They had only one small tank with mostly soft corals and a couple of clowns. Sydney has a amazing open top rock pool thing with a glass side full of coral. On the plus side for Mel they have a huge south pacific tank with sharks, snapper etc which is pretty cool, a (fake) reef tank with lots of fish and sea snakes which I haven't seen done before, and their jelly fish are 10 times bettter than Sydneys.