wasp

Well I don't have a very good knowledge of the redfeild ratio, I will admit that in this department Layton is my superior, I have never bothered to google it. Perhaps Layton could chip in here, he enjoys expounding on this. But in case he does not, the basics of it are, as apply to us reefers, that for nitrate and phosphate reducing organisms to properly function, they need some of both nitrate and phosphate. So, if one or the other is used completely, the other will stop being reduced. Redfeild has formulated this into a specific ratio. However, some reading I did showed that this ratio can vary depending on what specific organism is doing the reducing. Therefore, for me anyway, I do not get particularly hung up on exact ratios and particular numbers, I just bear in mind that a little of both is needed. However we should still target undetectable levels for both with our test kits, as there will still be a little present, it is just when they are well out of whack there may be a problem. One such scenario could occur if a tank with a DSB has a big phosphate level, but no nitrate. The phosphate just can't get reduced. Really that is as much as a typical reefer needs to be aware of, but for those with the time and inclination, further research may be of interest.

Layton this whole attack on me is based on your assumption that I misquoted you. Stop being so precious. I have already told you that I was not quoting you at all. Therefore it was not nessecary for you to continue the attack, but you kept going anyway, with post after post of it. Contrary to your claim I am trying to argue, I have been saying I do not want to be drawn into another of your stupid arguments, but you insist. You are so argumentative, bitter, and twisted, that you cannot even see this. What was deleted was because of your abuse, and the fact I complained to the moderator about it. As you, and the moderator know. You are obsessed with me. This is starting to look like harrasment. Get over it.

Layton I told you not to try to draw me into another one of your stupid arguments. What part of GROW UP don't you understand?

Wrong assumption AGAIN I was not quoting you at all. Like you have been told before, " it is not all about you". Layton you just trying to start another argument again as you do all the time. You have been warned by Warren, yet you say you "don't no why" (spelling again) the thread was edited. It is apparent Warrens little chat has fallen on deaf ears. I made it apparent that your terms of abuse such as ignorant, idiot, etc.. are offensive to me. Yet you then send me a pm in which you refer to me as idiotic YET AGAIN. I have referred this pm to a moderator, don't think you can continue your abuse and attempted wind ups of me behind the scenes now you have been told not to do it in public. And don't try to draw me into YET ANOTHER of your stupid arguments here, I draw your attention to the thread subject, Sargassum Trigger. No more of your wind ups please, GROW UP

Layton have a look for it, it will do you good :-? , although I think it may have been edited. Thanks Want a clue? Ask TM ( I think )

Keep it, you can use it to raise kh when the need arises.

Sounds like that may be the culprit. So it's a fresh water product?

Is it the pH up? What is that stuff?

ROTFL!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: Like all good Brits I am sure Ady will appreciate a joke!

Another thing also, the ceramic rings in your cannister will have water flowing past, and be kept fully oxygenated. The bacteria that live in these conditions eat ammonia, nitrite, but not nitrate. The nitrate eating ones require a low oxygen environment, and are found in the deeper pores within the liverock. If the cannister is performing a lot of your nitrogen cycle, it is likely your nitrates will be building up. Too much of this can be damaging to your corals. The remedy is to remove the cannister, provided of course that you have enough liverock to do the job. As for your currently high kh, best not to lower it with vinegar. It will slowly fall by itself if you just keep adding a little calcium every day. Might take a few weeks but best to do it this way. Although if you want to hurry things along some water changes would be fine, provided of course the water you are putting in has a low enough kh.

Well I'm not Cookie, but here is my take. In your tank, pH is determined mainly by alkalinity versus carbon dioxide. The more carbon dioxide in the water, the lower the pH. So you should keep the tank as aerated as possible. When there is too much Co2, pH can be raised by adding more alkalinity, that's probably what your pH up is, although i don't know. So the best approach is to keep alkalinity at a sensible level, often from 8 to 11, make sure the tank is properly aerated, and your pH will be fine. If pH is dropping incredibly low, and your alkalinity is in that range, it is likely you do not have enough aeration, it is better to deal with that rather than keep adding more alkalinity. Aeration is supplied by 2 main means, the skimmer, and surface agitation caused by the flow from your pumps. During the day, pH will tend to go up, because photosynthesis uses the Co2. At night pH goes down, as Co2 builds up. So how low is too low for pH? 7.8 is often touted as pretty low, but it is hard to say exactly because the ideal is 8.3, and things get slowly worse as it drops, there is no definate point you can absolutely say is too low. If you can maintain pH at or around 8.0 during the night, you are doing well.

My wrasse is very fat, wonder if that means it's a female. If I introduced one that may be male, would they hit it off? What do you think? It's only a 4 foot tank.

Only two things. You are adding something, or evaporation is concentrating it. Possibly also your test kit is wrong for some reason. Do you know your salinity?

Also TM, consider this. The statement was made "don't reduce your feeding to help reduce nitrates". However, we now have a number of people who claim their increased feeding has increased their nitrates. If this is the case, then if they returned to reduced feeding, presumably they would also return to reduced nitrates. That's my 2 cents anyway.

Good thought. Nothing like the personal touch. Shaneo while you're there should double check, with your own gear, all normal parameters plus salinity, temp, pH.

Couple of months, may be too early to see if the tank adapts, will have to check back in a few months I'll dairy the thread. But Fay when I looked at your tank you had a ton of fish in there already! Be interesting to see how you go.

Why not share the link so we can all enjoy this conversation?

There was a theory proposed a while back ( not mine ) that you can feed as much as you like, long as the tank adapts to it. For me, I go along with that to an extent, but there is obviously limits. Fay and TM how long have you had these triggers?

Pretty wet, like tea.

That's pretty cool! Do they hang out together or just for mating? Could you make a video of this?

Caused by the trigger?

Try putting in the absolute shadiest place possible for a week & see what happens.

Ouch! How long have you had it Fay?

Good to hear! There is so much anecdotal evidence in favour of vodka that I suspected it would fix the problem. As you said Puttputt the lightening of the corals is due to the nutrients being stripped. This same thing occurs with other products that strip nutrients such as zeovit. In the zeovit system, colour may be restored by feeding the corals with the nutrients they need. Anyhow, Layton did get one thing right, finding the proof WAS good for me! :lol: