wasp

Absolutely as long as you can get to it. Krama was over a few days ago & I killed some sps coral with boiling water while he watched. Had a milli growing into another acro that I'm trying to grow, and nearly touching I know the milli will sting it. So broke of a bit of milli for Krama & then killed around what was left of it on the rock in the tank, with boiling water, to make sure it won't just pop straight back up & sting the other one. With a small tank that is pretty chokka I use boiling water quite a bit to keep things in check & protect stuff that needs it.

As stated, they are harmless, but they gradually take over. If it were me i would get rid of it now. To do that, turn the pumps off, then snap off & remove with tweezers or similar. Then the little bit that's left kill with a turkey baster with boiling water. If you really want some you could put on a seperate rock. I got some from a shop a few years ago, regretted it ever since.

I usually test mine just before dosing. Actually I do it straight after the weekly water change, each monday, as the NSW I use may vary. There is a calcium reactor so levels are normally about right but if it's out I dose the required amount, and forget about it till the next water change. If you want to test afterwards you don't have to wait too long a few minutes is enough.

Running a fan? My 200 litre uses 2+ litres a day, but if the fan comes on 4 and up not unusual.

Andrem, what you describe is fairly common for a new anemone, until it finds a place to its liking. Especially if it is a bubble tip. What sometimes happen is the shipping process and getting ripped off its rock repeatedly etc it has been through, is to the anemone like it has been attacked by a predator, and is living in an unsafe place. Its reaction is to go hide somewhere. When it does this, if you straight away move rocks to expose it, the anemone goes "oh no not again!", and immediately moves of again. You need to let it settle where it wants, then give it a few days, minimum, before making any adjustments, then only make them if they are nessecary, and do it slowly. If the anemone is not in the place you want, it can be shifted, but later. In a few weeks or months, when the anemone is fully expanded and looking happy, you can consider trying to move it, best way is move the whole rock, and into similar conditions of light and flow, so it doesn't even know it's been moved. My own anemone has found a rock it likes, and has been moved with its rock a few times, even to different tanks. But I always put it in similar light and flow, it just carries on & does not seem to notice. Ady Uk, don't beat yourself up too much over the anemone some of the ones in the condition of your pic are just going to die and NOTHING you can do will change that. Next time you get one, only buy one that is not bleached, and you will find bubbletips are among the hardiest, although ALL anemones can be very high risk when first purchased. Some of them turn out to be as tough as old boots, while others just wither away & die, regardless what you do. Just to explain some more about cannisters, the environment inside a cannister is highly oxygenated as you constantly have new water passing through it. This helps bacteria that eat ammonia, and nitrite, but bacteria that eat nitrate will not do well they need a low oxygen environment. Nitrate eating bacteria are often found inside liverock, where most of the oxygen has already been used by bacteria living on the outside. So as the bacteria in your cannister consume ammonia and nitrite, but not nitrate, tanks with a cannister for biological filtration often have elevated nitrate levels. Easily solved, remove the cannister and leave all filtration to the liverock, nitrate levels will almost certainly fall. Don't chuck the cannister away though, you may want it for purposes such as running carbon or phosphate removing resin. But using a cannister for biological filtration in a reef tank will mostly do more harm than good. LFS's will often run them, or some form of aerobic filtration, because with their constantly changing bioloads, the aerobic filtration is faster to adapt, and remove the ammonia and nitrite which is much more dangerous than nitrate. But for long term good health of a stable reef system, you should aim to also keep nitrate as close to zero as you can.

Yes do use it, it will do something, especially if you use some vodka. A good starting point for vodka is 1 ml per day per hundred litres. Your Dad may not have an issue if he knows it's all in the cause of science! :lol: No chance of scoring a nice skimmer as a Christmas present?

Yes it is, you have a little baby one in one of your pics, that big one is how it will end up, (if it gets some more light) and they even get quite a lot bigger than that.

Evil I checked out your album, corals are coming along nicely. Looking a little light starved though once you get some more light things will be better. Some means of nutrient export such as rowaphos ( for example ), would do wonders for the tank also, probably pay to do that before adding more light, just to make sure no algae starts growing. That's unless you are going to get that good quality skimmer which would take care of the nutrients.

Would work, my son is going to do exactly the same in his cichlid tank.

Check CatBrats fish pics. Whatever camera he's got! http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/2-vt15 ... l?start=15

Yes, the clarity of that fish is great! Nice to see all the fine detail .

CatBrat what is that orange coral near the top left of your tank?

Actually I don't know about your photo skills Puttputt, doesn't look as good as in real life.

SSHHHH....... :lol: :lol:

Yes JDM didn't know your tank looked so good! Just wish i could get such a nice one of mine! Smaller pics seem to work but whole tank just doesn't seem to work

I'd be interested. Why are you thinking of doing the denitrator first, UV still a way off? You might not even need the denitrator.

Should point out I don't know crap about UV's :lol: , I was just asking

Thinking about that gap thing, does it matter if the gap is big & therefore it does not kill everything on the way past? When you think about it, SOME of the water will pass close to the bulb, and so presumably get the full effect. As the sterilizer does not nessecarily get every drop of water in the tank anyway, it would not matter that it does not sterilize every drop of water that passes through it, long as it gets some of it, being the stuff that passes close to the bulb?

Probably I wasn't doing it right, I think my fluidiser was allowing some to get into the water column. Actually the buildup in the pumps was calcium carbonate, I used to run a high alkalinity in those days. But while I used Rowaphos it had a brown colour to it. Never caused my acros any problems though as i made changes slowly.

Yes, used carefully Rowaphos is an excellent phosphate remover but it can be overdone, or done too quick. You're right it can clog pumps, one of the reasons I stopped using it & went to zeovit as a means to reduce nutrients. But I still think Rowaphos is a great product, just not too much at once, don't make too much change too quickly, as with many things reefing.

No not confirmed at all. That's why I think it's a bit premature to state that it is iron. There is just not enough solid information to make that assumption. Specially since others including myself have done similar with no problems. But it MIGHT be iron, therefore the contamination should be eliminated & see if that helps. I'll be interested to hear back from Joe Blogg though how long till his tank comes right. Perhaps if we see things starting to go bad, one thing to check would be all the pumps.

Well that's a useful tip, I bet a few people get caught with that!

Interesting comment about the millis, they are funny corals, in my tank they sometimes do the opposite to the other sps. Well let's hope it was the iron & phosphate, at least you've identified it & can effect a resolution. Be interesting to see if Chimeras tank can turn around if he removes the iron contamination. Although it's still not certain Chimeras problem is iron, just hope it is.