wasp

Well I thought I'd share this, both for viewing pleasure, and interest. http://zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2558

Well, how was it? Did you get to have a look around some nice reefs?

Yes, it's in the garage. Feel way better with a bit more frag floor space.

Actually, brings to mind a memory from around 30 years ago when I did a stint as a commercial fisherman, working of Manganui, in the far North. In that business, sometimes you can get an unexpected windfall. One time another fisherman was down at the harbour to work on his boat, when he noticed a major school of pillies. He slung a net around them, and netted about 400 bucks, not bad when the average weekly wage would have been about 80 or 90 bucks.

Hmmm. Ten bucks for one! hundred bucks for 10!!! I've been down the rocks at night with a torch and seen them swarming in some places. Maybe I better get my net :lol: :lol: .

Can easily see 4 grand. I just set up 3 x 4 foot frag tanks, and even going totally cheapskate, plus importing some stuff, it's cost me around 1500 to supply the lighting. Going to cost a grand a year in bulbs also, if I'm lucky. Which brings up - Why do some people think 25 bucks is too much for a cultured frag?

6,500 is good, but looks ugly not sure if that is an issue. 10,000 will also do a good job, just costs a bit more. Can't remember Brian, was it you that went in with me on some 75 watt 6,500 k halides maybe a year or so ago? That could be good for this.

In other words it ends up inside the tank?

Not sure, but I wonder if it could be done by using an XX extra thick piece of glass, or toughened glass? However in Doc Holidays case he does not have that option as the tank is already built, and he needs something to work with what he has got. What's wrong with a corner overflow anyhows?

$15.00 too much? If there is someone here who is prepared to go down and catch a bunch of glass shrimp, take home and advertise on TM, and sell for LESS than $15.00, please let me know who you are. By the way it is not one glass shrimp. From what I've seen it usually works out at 10 glass shrimp for $10.00 minus fees. I think he is an enterprising guy. He will probably end up with a LFS, unless he moves on to greater things.

Hi Craig Bored? Nah not really! Just thought that from the first post on, the thread contains 1/2 truths presented as facts, jumbled in with some correct info and it's all hard to tell which is which. Decided the best plan would be to not respond, so the whole thing will drift off into oblivion, where it belongs. Cheers.

A guy came to buy some frags from me who had bought some of these shrimps & still had them in the car. He knew where they were from but could not be bothered to hassle & get them himself. I am not saying who the seller is, but it is a young person who has found a way to make some pocket money. I say good on him, if there's a market, go for it!

True. The weak point is top middle. (If no brace) The safest place is bottom corners, although perhaps harder to actually drill.

That's funny Chimera :lol: , it's a rule of reefkeeping, that no matter how carefully we design our tanks, after it is all finished we wish we could change something on it !

Good point Doc, however I'd go with what Suphew said 100%. What I set up is very little hassle, nothing in it against a non return valve. But the main things is, this is all about safety and "sleep at night" factor. Installing an anti syphon type air inlet is as full proof as you can get, whereas non return valves can be prone to get stuck open, you only need a little bit of calcium on it and it will leak. If you do a search on RC with a word like "flood", or similar, you will find that many of these events come back to non return valves that did not do the job, IMO anyway, it is better to design them out of the system.

Drilled returns are great. You just need to install something so that if the power goes off it will not syphon all the way down to the level of entry in the tank. What I have done is raise the return pipe, outside the tank, to above the water level, install a coupling at the high point with a small tube running off that goes to the tank, just below water level, but only just. If the power goes off, as soon as the tank water drops below this small tube, air is sucked into the return pipe and breaks the flow. Not sure if that is standard procedure, but it does work nicely. Twin outlet drilled holes are also good in that you can have a point of safety, ie, if one was blocked by a snail or some other accident, you still have the other working. You would need some means to detect if one was blocked, like the tank level suddenly went up 1/2 inch, or something like that. IMO, if you are going to the expense and hassle of sending the tank away to be drilled, get all the holes you think you may need, you can plug them if need be, but they will always be available for you.

If you are going to ask stupid questions and be an outright jerk, don't come to me for a serious answer. I'm not here to humor you.

As prevoiusly stated, there is a method used by some of the more advanced zeovit users to gauge iron. Trouble is, I doubt it will be accurate enough for a man with high standards like yourself Layton . However, some zeovit users actually dose iron seperately to their tanks if required, and use this method to gauge wether they have enough iron or not, so they know wether to dose.

Sounds good Reef, that is my own theory on TN also.

Can't help with that last bit Peter I wouldn't know. But don't throw your theory out yet, some good ideas there. I'm just wondering how HUGE this claimed HUGE amount is though. I know most zeovit tanks have reasonably normal amounts of iron in the water column. Perhaps more than many tanks though, which are sometimes iron starved. Hence algae growth when iron is added, if it is the limiting nutrient.

Some good thinking in those last few posts.

What lab? How much will it cost?

Anybody got any ideas on how to do the iron test? Layton can you elaborate on this mass spectroscopy that you believe is the easiest method. There is a way that some of the more advanced Zeovit users test for iron, but I do not believe it will be considered acceptable by the people who think zeovit poisons the tank. EDIT. I should say person, not people. I think there is only one left in NZ.

Can't answer the test kit question. However, it would certainly be an interesting thing to do. A number of zeovit tanks, compared to some other tanks. A MM tank would also be interesting. On the reactor question, I've been told if the flow is too fast it can cause cloudiness in the water, this has been a problem in the past. Not sure if there is any more to it than that. But the recommended flow rate now is 100 US gallons per hour, per litre of zeovit. However, when I first made my own reactor I in error had too much flow through it, around 4 x the recommended amount. This was remedied after a few months, however I did not see any ill effects from this.