mangolm

140 Litre tank with stand. For sale $150. Used condition. Some chips to the base of stand. Pick up only in Mt Eden. Total height 124.5cm. Tank measures h53 x w75.5 x d46 cm Photo is of this tank. $30 for 30 litre tank with glass lid also available. Box full of flourite dark available - $30 Two bags worth in here. Used. (I never kept snails, last used a year ago.) Also have a bunch of filters, air pumps, heaters, nets, water testing kits, flourite, Seachem additives(iron, prime, flourish, excel), melafix and pimafix and foods available for sale. PM me if you are interested in anything.

Thankyou. Its heavily planted so i struggle to keep nitrates in the tank even when adding nitrogen artificially. Its normal for me Ill put him down with some clove oil then.

Ram seemed to be off its food yesterday but otherwise healthy. This morning was acting normally. Tonight the ram was twirling when swimming and mostly hiding under the air hose. I have moved him to a breeder box within the same tank. His body is bent in half. His gills are redder than normal, and on the stretched side of the body the scales are raised. Photo and video supplied - should I quarantine him? He doesn't appear to have any external disease, and I worry that the move to quarantine may be too much stress for him, but I of course don't want to put my other fish at risk. Does anyone know what this may be or how to treat? http://youtu.be/S_K73tpVt5c I should also mention, water change done 2 days ago and water tests normal (0,0,0)

Make sure the fencing goes a little underground too. I was just talking today to a friend who had her rabbit successfully dig under (but thankfully returned home).

Also the small hutch shouldn't matter if they are let out for most of the day to roam the house/yard and are just sleeping in it. I agree that you will need a bigger one if that is to be where they spend most of their time, but remember that rabbits can get bored and need enrichment (boredom often means destruction, as with most animals).

Females are more expensive to spay than males are to neuter if cost is a consideration. Daily handling will make them friendlier - the more you handle them the more they crave it. Also remember that hay should compose 80% of their diet, followed by veges and then pellets, not the other way around as i know some pet stores tell customers I know with male mice their urine smells much more strongly than female - does anyone here know if that is the same for rabbits?

Do you have a filter?

Yeah, too expensive for my purposes. Thankyou anyway.

Hello, Ive been making wheat bags with dried lavender in them and have run out of the lavender. So, if anyone has any old dried lavender lying around which they wouldn't mind sending me (ill pay of course) that would be excellent. Even if it has lost its scent (it will smell plenty once heated). Thankyou

Well scratch that. Noticed he had fin rot on his pelvic fins where he was sitting on the bottom of the tank. Quarantined him. He has lost all colour and now 48 hours after quarantine is unable to swim independently. He also stopped eating. I'm not sure if the quarantine was the right thing to do Ive got melafix and pimafix for the fins which really aren't too bad. But given his other deterioration's at what point would you put him down if no improvement is shown?

Thankyou! He is already back to eating but still hiding and rather shy. Fins back to looking healthy as well. The bloody bit looks bigger and darker, but given the overall health is improving I'm guessing its just part of the healing process. No signs of infection on the gill. Do you think I should move him to a hospital tank or only if I observe him being more stressed or fighting with the other rams?

I have a golden ram who is very suddenly (as in this afternoon) showing signs of distress - he has withdrawn to the back of the tank, his dorsal fin is looking a bit ragged, he is slower moving than normal, still interested in food, but doesn't do more than investigate offerings. But most worryingly is that he has what looks like a burst blood vessel on the bottom of one gill. No other fish in the tank is showing any sign of weakness or disease, and none have any marks like this one has. The 3 rams do fight, but i have never seen any injuries, and they do not fight often (only when one invades another's chosen territory), and they tend to aim higher on the body, but I suppose it is possible it could be an injury from another ram. Water is A 0, Ni 0, Na <5. Water change last performed a week ago. Can you identify what this is from the image? What would you recommend as ideal course of treatment?

Can I ask why you're unsure?

Am i right in thinking these 3 are all males? Or is the first one a female with the shorter extensions on the dorsal (top) fin, even though the ventral fins are really long (they reach his/her tail when s/he folds them up)? Asking so i can even out the genders when i purchase more, and hopefully get some pairs. Does the shape of the tail have anything to do with gender or is one considered better than the other? Thanks!

I dont have an iron test kit so wondering roughly how much and how often i should be dosing iron for a 140L tank, medium-heavily planted. Some plants were yellowing which is why i bought the iron.

I have 5 fry from a pairing which have displayed this colouring (the other ~20 fry were all female) Im wondering what you guys think? The father is currently paired with another female in a separate tank. Anyway, wondering if you think the pairing would be worth pursuing? I think they are pretty but im inclined to be biased, given they're my fish and all Oh right, disclaimer: the fish was only in the glass for a max of two minutes because all of these ones swim too fast in the main tank to photograph in there.

Ive found aquaone pretty poor too. I have a tank maid (blue planet) in my community tank at the moment. I think i paid $38 and it has been great. Only thing i replaced is the carbon it comes with with a little bit of filter wool. Added the optional air line to the outlet and it pumps out a fine stream of bubbles as well - makes it really easy to see when flow starts to be affected because the bubbles stop. Its how I know when to clean it. Mines rated for 70L but i have it in my 140L and there have been no issues with regards to water quality. It is a planted tank though so maybe that has something to do with it. I intend to get another one soon simply so that if one fails...

I was only thinking about using it to rid the algae from one of the pipes/tubes coming off my filter. And possibly a once-off in a newly planted tank. Certainly not as a long term solution. My plants were all taking off so incredibly well i thought it would be okay to up flourish dosing to 2x weekly instead of 1x... i should have played it safe Live and learn

Does api algae fix actually kill the existing algae or just control/slow its growth?

Mine laid eggs in the 140l when i had silica sand, dug a little hole by a stone with their tails...and a guppy promptly ate the eggs. I switched to flourite soon after and while they are very active they dont seem to want to mate again. bit unfortunate. I have a 90cm air line and a tankmaid just for current and aeration - it blows out very fine bubbles. Have to keep turning the air tube down otherwise my water gets cloudy with air. I would love to set up a dedicated river tank, maybe with mountain minnows as well as the borneos, but my BF and my apartment have reached their limit...

If it doesn't settle you could try either doing a series of water changes (cover the sand when re-filling to avoid stirring it up more and don't siphon the actual sand this time) or packing your filter with cosmetic cotton which i found cleared the dust from my flourite up really quickly due it being very dense. Because cosmetic cotton is often bleached i would then recommend a large water change and to switch back to your regular filter media before adding fish. But generally these things are just a matter of patience. Highly recommend you grab a test kit while you're at the shop tomorrow, at a bare minimum for ammonia to ensure the tank is cycling properly and so that you know when you need to do water changes while the tank is cycling. You could also ask them or someone you know with a healthy tank for a bag of water they have rinsed out their filter in. This will help to give your filter a head-start with bacteria. Make sure to ask if any fish are being treated or sick and not to buy from any tank which share the same water or filter system as those being treated/sick. If they say they don't know, ask them to find out or ask to speak to someone more senior.

Thanks Adrienne, SaintyChelle - mine have also tried but don't seem to like Flourite for it. I love them and they seem happy enough in the tanks, if not breeding that I would like to increase my numbers.

Is anyone breeding borneo suckers in NZ? particularly in Auckland?

Im in the CBD/central auckland. A few months ago the pH out of tap was 8.6 so i test it regularly but it always drops to the same 7 (just changes whether or not I age it before doing a water change)

I haven't used any chemicals to lower it just thought it might happen using the peat and oak. Out of the tap my pH is about 7.6 which drops to 7 and stays there indefinitely. I might try half Pure Dew if this attempt doesnt produce any young