Silverdollarboy2

Four 240L (one empty) tanks on a rack. Flowerhorn. Apisto Nijsenni, Otocinclus, Pseudomugil signifer. L177, L106, GBA.

I have 4 dwarf neon blue gourami.(1x male, 3 x female). 2 Bolivian rams, 5 julii corydoras, 14 neon tetras and 4 or 5 otocinclus. The Oto’s are shy so not sure if I lost any. All in a 215 litre tank. Looking at putting some fish into a 40 litre I have to get set up and thinking about getting a small pond for over summer to put white cloud minnows in. 

In our younger years (kids at home etc) we had up to 18 aquariums at one point with a wide range of species but are now down to one 4ft tropical with only Odessa barbs and Ancistrus in it (brown and gold) plus a 3m x 9m goldfish pond outside.

Free Rainbow Shark, is getting too large for tank
PUO Hawkes Bay

By hammered, it looks like the leaves have been hit with a small hammer so they have a more rippled (sort of bubbly) effect along the length than the standard surface of Java.
I offer this opinion after studying several photos of both plants, not from personal experience.

Some of mine 😎

Easy to build, cheap and solid as.
 

https://www.ocellarisclownfish.com/difference-between-ocellaris-and-percula-clownfish
Difference Between Ocellaris and Percula Clownfish
One of the most common questions from new clownfish owners (and even experienced reef keepers) is, “What is the difference between an Ocellaris Clownfish and a Percula Clownfish?” After all, one of the Ocellaris’ most common names is False Percula Clownfish. The differences are minute. However, the two fish are distinct species, although closely related.
It’s surprisingly common that people will believe that a True Percula Clownfish is a wild caught fish and a False Percula Clownfish is a tank raised fish. While this may make sense given the names, it is not at all true. Both Ocellaris and Percula clownfish may be found in the ocean or tank raised.
How Ocellaris and Percula Clownfish are Different
There are a number of differences between the two species. Let’s take a look at a few:


Dorsal fin spines: The True Percula Clown (Amphiprion percula) typically has 10 dorsal spines. These are the spines in the fin on the very top of the fish. The False Percula (Amphiprion ocellaris) has 11 dorsal fin spines. On rare occasions the A. percula will have 9 dorsal spines and the A. ocellaris will have 10. However, in general, the True Percula will have 10 and the False Percula 11. Also, the back part of the dorsal fin is generally taller on the False Percula (Ocellaris) than it is on the True Percula. Black outlines: False Perculas often have much less black outlining their white strips. Sometimes it may look as though there is no black at all, but there is almost always at least a thin black outline adjacent to the white stripes. The True Percula, on the other hand, usually has thicker black stripes outlining the white stripes on their body. This is generally true of standard clownfish, although colorations and patterns can vary greatly from one fish to another. Therefore, this is not a true test one way or the other. It is a good piece of evidence though, when taking into account the other differences. Eye color: Another way to tell the difference between the two species is often the color of the eye. On the True Percula, the eye shows more orange color to it surrounding the pupil. Conversely, the Ocellaris clownfish has more black surrounding the pupil.

Sphaerichthys selatanensis – Chocolate Gourami
 
 
 

American Flagfish - Jordanella floridae
 
 

I've just got to get past my 'it's overstocked!' instincts. I know the filters can handle more fish and aggression will be less with more but so many years of more typical community tanks is hard to shake!

Here's the video: 
 

Hi everyone, sorry for the long time between updates!
I've had the tank set up for several months now, The filters are setup with ~1 kg of Fluval Biomax, 1kg of Biohome ultimate, and ~0.5kgs of Ehiem Substrat pro. So biological filtration should be more than enough. I've hotrodded the Blue Planet filter so it fits the Biomax and the substrat pro as well as some decent sponges for 3 stage mechanical filtration (if anyone is interested I can give a rundown of what I did). The Ehiem classic has the biohome and 3 stage mechanical as well. Both filters have intake prefilters to (in theory) stop sand getting into them.
Anyway enough with the technical side, the fish are currently 6x adult Electric Yellow Cichlids that I got from a local guy who was selling all of his setups as he was working away from home. From what I can tell there is probably too many males for them to breed, but that's probably not a bad thing as I don't have another tank to raise them in. I also have a Synodontis Sruptus (Featherfin Catfish) who is awesome and growing fast. Aggression is a slight problem, I've had some fin nipping towards the catfish. I've been trying to get enough caves so everyone is happy and it seems to be working.
As for hardscape, I've got fine sand for the substrate which looks cool but gets everywhere! I've changed the rocks several times but I've settled of some local red chert (basically red flint) which I really like. I had volcanic rock to start but the chert looks so much better and is easy to rearrange for water changes. I've also got some wood which the catfish loves to hang upside down around.
As for the future, I plan to add one or two male peacock cichlids eventually, maybe out of strawberry peacock/Red Kadango/Butterfly Peacock.
I've got a video that I will try to upload.

Still going well, pothos has certainly removed a lot of nitrates.

Hey everyone! Share your FTS (full tank shot), let's see what NZ'rs are keeping.
I'll start.
My tank is a 450L home to 3 species of polypterus, 1 convict cichlid, 1 red oscar, and 1 Cuban cichlid.
Tank will eventually be a dedicated setup to a breeding pair of Cuban cichlids once I grow a suitable male to maturity.
I recently re-scaped it by removing a large piece of wood, adding the twiggy bits and getting a greater size range of stones to make it more naturalistic.
Keen to see other people's stuff!

You had better do a thorough search first and check if that was for a single fish or a pair 

I have no experience with apistos or rams but a quick search tells me apistos need at least 75L and rams need 38L minimum.
Not sure of their availability (been years since I have been in a fish shop) but have you thought of going brackish with Bumblebee gobies, Brachygobius xanthozona?
Not for beginner fishkeepers.

Mini fish profile - Dwarf Puffer      
 

Snail harvesting, was pretty low... and they are a pain to get in the big tank....
have found... they go crazy over mozzy's and daphnia, which is probably pissing off my tetras in the other tank!! am surprised, damn, they can move fast if they want to chase down something!
heres a couple of pic's... don't think they had come across daphnia before...they were a bit slow,  after they got a taste... damn... they are on a full hunt....
 
 
 

Carnegiella marthae - Blackwing hatchetfish

Just have a good look at a school of Marble hatchetfish in your LFS and if you are lucky some Blackwing hatchetfish could be there. If you are lucky you might come across some.

Rhinecanthus aculeatus - Picasso triggerfish and Acanthurus sohal - Sohal surgeonfish


Pygoplites diacanthus - Regal angelfish


Wyoming White Clownfish


Coral reef

Scroll to the bottom for details on how to order   The New Zealand Native Freshwater Aquarium
$25
2018, New Holland Publishers Paperback 208 pages Back blurb text: New Zealand’s unique native freshwater fish have been too long ‘out of sight, out of mind’, but they are surprisingly charismatic, intriguing, and bursting with personality. Difficult to observe in the wild, the fish are much more accessible and tangible in the aquarium, immediately becoming advocates for the conservation of their freshwater habitats. Native fish are an interesting and unusual alternative to exotic aquarium species. They are easy to look after in the aquarium thanks to this comprehensive and practical guide. Stella McQueen’s enthusiasm and expertise is evident on every page. This book: Discusses the species most suited to aquaria, with a strong focus on conservation and ethical fish keeping. Covers how to find, catch and look after native fish, with tips on how to identify different species. Provides an understanding of the fish in their natural environment, with suggestions for creating an attractive aquarium reflecting these habitats. Is for scientists, fish keepers and the generally curious alike. A Photographic Guide To Freshwater Fishes of New Zealand
$26
2013, New Holland Publishers 144 pages Paperback Back blurb text: Highly illustrated guide to more than 60 species, complete with distribution maps Compact, easy-to-use format; the ideal pocket-size travelling companion. Authoritative, comprehensive text describing key identification features. Stella McQueen has a postgraduate diploma in freshwater ecology from Massey University. She is the author of The New Zealand Native Freshwater Aquarium. Rod Morris is one of the country’s most talented natural history photographers and filmmakers, and is the author of several books on New Zealand’s wildlife. How to Order
Aquarium Guide $25 plus $4.50 postage TOTAL: $29.50 Photographic Guide $26 plus $3.50 postage TOTAL: $29.50 Order BOTH and save on postage, total cost $55.50 Rural delivery: please add $3.70. To order, make the deposit into my account: SL McQueen 38-9007-0097395-07 Reference: the start of your email address. Then drop an email to me at [email protected], noting which books you would like, your address, and if you would like your books signed. I am happy to just sign my name or address it to you or your gift recipient. I can also provide a receipt if needed.

I wouldn't as you might find you have one happy, even more giant, kokopu and no goldfish.

Probably not as the kokopu may be territorial by now