herefishiefishie

Sorry Smidey pure fryeri do not have utaka spots at any stage. Juvi, mature, female etc. I am more inclined to go with firenzenz, litho cross fryeri are common unfortunately. Frenchy

If you are really concerned about it. Don't have to be. & you don't want to do extra water changes. & you don't want to increase plants. You can use a seachem product called purigen. Frenchy

Can't be an electric blue {fryeri}, they don't have utaka spots. Will say, that is a very nice clean looking electric yellow. Frenchy

I am with above comments. Check tank for dead matter, ie;fish. How often & how much do you feed? How often & how much water do you change? Do you use a gravel vac? How do you clean the filter? To me all the debris you took the picture of, is way to much. The ammonia has burned the cories gills & skin. The red patches/marks will be bacterial infection. I would be doing 30-50% water changes, every day. Cut back feeding to once every 2 days. Just flake & light feeds. Pellets are high in protein, if any are uneaten, water can go off quick. Frenchy

The eyes starting to pop out is usually linked with a bacterial infection. The red glow, if it looks like could be red marks, patches,{these can be bright} tends to be from bacterial infection too. In some cases the patches can be caused by parasite or viral infection. I would be accessing your water quality, therefore get it tested, for ammonia, nitrites etc. Start treating with an antibiotic. Then again if just one fish, I would probably just euthanase. Frenchy

Can't go by weight of tablet as amount of prazi would vary brand to brand. Most have which value of prazi there is per tablet. The dose rate I gave above, is less than what the dose rate is on the prazi bottle. Then again, what they say day wise is out too. I do a water change the day before I do the next weeks dose. No need for carbon, if fussy, then maybe at the end of the 3rd week. The thing with gill flukes the eggs hatch from 1-21 days. Depending on temp. They need to find a host in 8 hours or they will die. The comments above are right, there are varying species of each type of flukes. Gill flukes tend to be egg laying worms. Then you have skin flukes which are different, the book I have recommends using a different drug.The most common form of Skin fluke, Gyrodactylus is a live bearer. Frenchy

Good info on the prazi drugs. Even here with some of the prazi drugs aimed at fish. Some are not pure prazi. For gill flukes I treat every day for 3 days. Repeat weekly for 3 weeks. Dose rate 250mg/100lt. Thats comes from Gerald Bassleer. Works for me. As above, any chance of posting what he recommends for different flukes/parasites? As stated they all have different cycles etc. I would be very interested. Frenchy

Yeh but evil, you are probably lucky more than anything. It is the same as someone feeding bloodworms to tropheus & not giving them vegie matter. More luck than good management. Point is you should have wood & add some from of vegie in diet. Bloat is likely to be something it ate. You have to remember in this case vegie matter is given, but bristlenose will eat anything that hits the ground that it comes across. ie; if bloodworms reach the bottom. The other problem is the ammonia spike could of caused an internal problem. Just took a period of time for the catties to die. Frenchy

Just a thought... I was thinking it could columnaris too. Check pictures of that in google. Frenchy

As above will be fine for now. Frenchy

I bet I have seen the worst looking electric yellows. Apart from Brad, who has seen the same ones. :roll: It is not photo shopped, they are that bad, dull etc.... Now that I have seen the yellow in the opening post on a different computer. It just looks like a not so high a quality one. Frenchy

I agree with Ryan on all the ID's. The yellow looks a little suss, how big is it? Frenchy

You can try something a bit soft or more natural like melafix to help with the wounds. Just remember to keep the water really clean. The poor bugger will be prone to bacterial infections etc. Frenchy

Most of the zebs can handle their own. Most fish ignore electric yellows{lucky them} Peacocks, well depends if a male wants to flare up. Basically it comes down to the dominance of the fish concerned & if the others are small enough to be a food source. I have had to get rid of venustus out of set ups before as they became to much of a pain. Then re start with smaller ones. Frenchy

That is right Ryan. Problem is when people/shops sell zebras, mbunas as electric blue, or blue zebras etc they are not a pure cichlid at all. I have seen thousands of these fish over the years. The joys of people not taking note of the proper names, keeping mixed fish in tanks, therefore cross breeding etc. Shops will on sell them if they look nice, $5 is $5 after all. & some people are not particular, just want pretty fish. The problem is, electric blue is a common name in most places for Sciaenochromis fryeri. Which isn't even a mbuna. As stated here a hundred times before. You can only call your fish for what it was named as. Just a tip, try buying cichlids with scientific names, or if it is a common name make sure it exists for the fish concerned. When I first started with cichlids, I used to write down the names, then do research. Firstly, I found it hard to believe some shops with fish ID & compatibility with others.{some just want a sale} Plus it is hard to remember some of the names. Frenchy

I keep some in a planted 4x2x2 with tropicals, plants etc. I only do 1/4 water change every week. Don't know about the bare bottom being cleaner. Sand, gravel etc make for a larger surface area for bacteria breeding, therefore a cleaner tank. I use river sand, not as fine as beach sand. Most waste sits on top of that too, so easier to clean, plus it looks more natural. Frenchy

http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?p=259668#259668 Unfortunately see what I mean. Frenchy

Well the problem is you said... & Pseudotropheus sp. "Crabro Blue" is way off to those. Different genius, body shape etc again. The fish you just named I have never heard of being in NZ or Aussie. Judging by your pics, I fail to see the similarities. Body shape, striped depth of colour.... Frenchy

That may work Alan, all depends on the aggression or dominance in the alpha male. Some males are keen to just guard a small territory, others will constantly harass the weaker to death. In the case of Venustus, probably be death. They like a bigger area to call there own & are on the aggressive side of things to lets say a peacock as an example. Worth a try, sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Frenchy

The venustus has been touched up a far bit that is what the marks are. Add a little extra salt to his new home to increase slime coat production. Feed it up for a few weeks, should be fine. When re introducing, if you do. May be best when well, just to trade back to shop or sell on here. Re arrange the tank & try to introduce with a few newbies, dither fish or feeders to give the venustus a chance. Either introduce on lights out when you have the next day off. Or introduce first thing in the morning on a day where you can watch to see what happens. Frenchy

oh :-? Don't know. Never had them. Frenchy

I have had fighters on a shared system. In winter when one dropped ,it seemed to pass on whatever it had to the others. I am not sure what disease it is, next time I run into Malcolm{a former boss} I will ask him. Frenchy

Cheers mate, good to see you are here for more than just your good looks I am on g/f's computer, not allowed to have so much fish stuff saved on favs. :lol: Frenchy

Like I said the fish would of carrying, thus transferred from one tank to another when moving fish, or via plastic plant, or from the net used from catching fish in different tanks. Whitespot is very easy to transfer. I have linked a whitespot article from Florida Uni somewhere on this site. It explains the life cycle, the ease of transfer from tank to tank, fish transfer, nets etc. The ability to live in gills only, if body is healthy etc. Yep fish came from cold tank that is no good, you would think the shock of temp change would make them break out that day or the next, not 3 weeks later too. Frenchy

Maybe so they can catch out fish?!?!? Frenchy