Ira

Yes, it can be cured, but it will likely cost somewhere in the range of $1K per fish. A lot of what I've read says most peoples fish probably have TB. It only shows symptoms when the fish's immune system is weakened. So, the only thing you can really do is keep the fish healthy enough to fight it off. Though, as usual, all the information seems to be contradictory. Ranges from sources saying it's rare but will kill your fish within weeks to other sources saying that it's very common and many other diseases are actually symptoms of TB that have been misdiagnosed and it has an incubation period of 6 months to a year. I've decided to take the course that there isn't really anything you can do about it, a year long quarantine isn't practical, so just keep the fish otherwise healthy.

You know how in the movies how the lead male and female lead characters always jump all over each other just before the bomb is supposed to explode, the plane crash, the reactor explodes, etc?

If they're breeding fast enough to overload it, you're not dumping enough of them into the main tank to be eaten.

Which dwarf cichlids? Keyholes? Kribs? Rams? Apistogrammas? etc. Makes a huge difference. But, something like kribs and keyholes you're probably ok with 3-4, smaller ones like blue rams a few more.

I'm on a "Not cannister filters" kick. Which makes sumps pretty much the only alternative.

Tank that size I'd go with a sump run by a something like a pair of big fountain pumps.

Nice...I'll take 10.

Make the big planted tank a huge biofilter and throw a bunch of guppies in it to occasionally get their fry sucked into the main tank. Like a FW refugium.

Doc, if your nitrite levels are up to 100ppm your fish would be LOOONG dead. But, if your nitrate levels were that high, they'd just be feeling sick.

When I first started putting bird grit in my biggest tank I tested the PH every couple days because I wasn't sure how long it would last. I stopped after about two months of no noticable drop in its effectiveness.

50% weekly...Ok, been a bit slack this week...But anyone that says you should be doing changes like 15% every couple weeks is either an idiot or you've got a big, heavily planted tank with very little bioload.

Are they on the allowed list? I don't remember seeing them on it.

There was heaps of diatoms on the glass, but the snails have done a good job cleaning that up. All that's left is a few specks and lines where they've missed. Now...The rock...heaps of diatoms and some green algae in a few places.

They get to around 7-8" not including their tail, like fine substrate, eat just about anything, are relatively calm and unaggressive, although my two do like to chase each other a bit, they don't chase anyone else. Like a neutral to slightly alkaline PH. That's about it. They're easy to take care of.

To begin with, don't add cycle. I had a problem with my tanks turning cloudy after water changes and clearing up after a couple days. Never did figure out why and it stopped after a few months. Didn't seem to bother the fish much, so I wouldn't worry much.

I haven't had to clean any of the glass on mine..Guess there are advantages to having really crappy lighting.

U-shaped clips and...OH, I know what you mean. Yeah, those suck. The earlier ones are much better, nice plastic piece that mounts on the tank with the intake and outlet going through it. Don't know why they changed it. Stupid, IMO.

And if it doesn't work, you can still do a water change and get drunk...

I've had kind of a thought about that...I wonder if you can't get a good waterproof paint(Though, I think any polyurethane should be fine) you could maybe use cheap, thin glass inside just to waterproof it and the plywood is the actual structural strength.

I think TB causes bent spines too.

Ugh, Pacu, horrible fish.

Definitely don't dose the tank with anything. Anything you'd dose it with would likely be more harmful than the worms, they're probably harmless.

Hmmm, I don't think there's anything that can be guaranteed not to eat the fry when they're very young. Ummm...Something like Silver Hatchets probably wouldn't, especially since they'd hang around mostly at the top, the bristlenose fry more towards the bottom. Apple snails would be fine, and the eggs would probably be laid where the snail can't get to them.

All I've got is 1 striped Mystus 1 silver mystus 3 clown loaches 1 redspot pleco 8 bristlenose 1 pictus a handful of cories

Why would that work?