Joshie

It's not a fungus growing on the skin is it? I just wouldn't expect a disease to change from black to white unless fungal.

After having read this whole post, 2 things interest me. Firstly the link to ERMA website, FANTASTIC. BUT... why would ViaLactia Biosciences (NZ) Limited import them for "Purpose: Identification of genes involved in milk production" ?? What do these fish have that could contribute to milk production? Secondly, MAF destroyed them with concerns about GM/GE contamination getting into the food chain, or any food chain, yet if they're only destroying living danios, what happens to any other fish that have been in contact with the GM fish who could have eaten these fish while alive, or possibly eaten these fish after their death's (by causes other than MAF)? Let's face it, not every fish imported will have survived, and those that haven't survived will have had their bodies picked at by more than just danios. MAF like every agency has their flaws, and while this was a c**k for them, they are too late. Pandora's box has been opened, these fish will resurface again. People will secretly bred them for the simple fact that they're no longer allowed to. ** Also looking at the applications for import permits, a lot of these studies could be done on normal, every day fish. Great way to keep fish that are no one else can say they have aye, apply for a permit at work for "research" purposes! Yea right!

I know Stevenson's in Auckland used to, and should still do, Silica Sand, and possibly Mercer Sand was white. The Silica is VERY white. When using for a deep base though, watch out for "dead spots" where the water doesn't circulate through sand and poisonous gases can build up. If you still have trouble finding something, ring a few landscaping crowds. If you can find some, find out if they have it in bags already washed. Still pay to give it a rinse if they do, but most of the rubbish won't be mixed in with it.

I'd love to know myself, but I have heard Oyster shell grit for bird shops is usually a good alternative. Basically being crushed shells will raise pH, just more pale a colour than I wanted for my tank. for big setup's however, grit would be cheaper to obtain.

Any brand of silicone will be ok SO LONG as it's for glass, is CLEAR (i.e no colourant's added), has NO anti-mould agents, has to be acidic cure (meaning it will smell like vinegar while setting and cannot be cleaned up in water). Basically no frills and extras. Most of these will mention in the fine print suitible for aquariums.

Blockages will be reduced if using larger pipes. 110mm dia like he used would take a large "body" to block up, most leaves would get sucked through such a big hole too I'd imagine. If worried, get an extra hole drill for an emergency over flow in both tanks that was higher than the bottom of the bridge, connect the two overflows together so if something goes wrong the water will take an alternate route between tanks.

Problem with just killing everything is as all those bodies rot up you're water is going to not only be deadly for months, the stench from it would drive you nuts! Introducing bigger fish to get rid of them will only create a bigger problem later, how to get rid of the other fish. I'd suggest talking to MAF or else talk to local fire brigade, few beers, an opportunity to have some practice with their hoses and pumps. Or throw a big pump in there and spend summer watering the local fields. I suspect throwing in non-predacious fish like comets and pacu will only result in the gambusia teaming on them and eatting out their eyes.

For $10 odd dollars do they require the tank pulled apart or will they drill with it assembled?

Yea... Damn, hoped you wouldn't say that. hehehe So same as usual huh. Oh wells. The 4th one's started colourin, so here's hoping. hehehe

Help me please. Looking on the net I've found alot of conflicting info. Does anyone have or know someone who has these who can tell me what the deffinate sex differences are? I've got 5, 3 of which have coloured up the same, starting to get bumps on foreheads so assuming male, other 2 just starting to colour. Also know as "Cichlasoma" (Theraps) nicaraguensis or Hypsophrys nicaraguensis. I havce the Costa Rica colour varient, locally breed in West Auckland. Appeciate anyones help. Thank you

Go hunting in clean creeks and lakes, there's HEAPS out there. We've got coldwater mussels, shrimps, crayfish, several snails of shapes and sizes, plants, leeches. bugs and insect lavae. Just remember unlike tropical fish from different environments these are all from the same food chain and once all confined in a tank, many won't last more than a day or two. And the other thing is the bugs and lavae can change into unwanted types.

The biggest thing when first trying to keep them is to use the water from where you caught them. Eels will do incredible things to get back to the water they came from. After a day you could do partial water changes with the water you wish to keep them in. After the change you'll notice they move about more, trying to climb out etc, follow up with further water changes every few days when they settle down. Keep the water way way down from the top of your container, cause at first they'll try climbing out. Especially at night. Eel's have simular abilities to snakes when it comes to climbing things. Make sure you have a heavy lid as well. They have STRONG muscles and can push a lid off if not on properly. They eat meat and can get used to feeding from hand if a time routine is kept up, but unless you've got small ones I wouldn't try it while you're studying them. The meat doesn't need to be specific, they'll happily take cat/dog food, but since you're not keeping them longterm try to keep it as close as they'll get in nature. Small fish, worms, insects, water snails etc. As was said before, they project a slime when they're nervous or in new water. This is for their protection, but will make the water dirty. I find large gravel good, with large rocks they can hide under. Keep the tank/container out from bright light, they'll be more likely to venture out during the day that way. Hope this helps

That would be a resonable fee to pay. Amazing how cheap they are these days, 15 years ago a cheap/no brands/no warranty was around $100! madness!

hmm, definately interesting change. Does it appear white due to reflection, or does it actually discolour its self? Was applying it simple enuff? just brushed on?

Many thanks every1 for such fast replies. Ira: those thoughts were along the same lines of mine. John: How do you find them? (And i don't mean you just open your eyes and they're there! ) I was thinking of making a filter base up and pushing the return flow from a w/d trickle filter back into the tank this way. Any recommendations or fore-seeable problems? I haven't yet set up the trickle filter since the tank i intend to use to house it has no face glass yet.

There's a product available here in NZ called Pondpaint. Comes in 1ltrs; 2ltrs; 4ltrs and 20ltrs. Colours are Black; Grey and a clear (which can be tinted but i've no idea how toxic that could get). Coverage range from 6-8 m2 per ltr. Retail for a ltr apx $36. Doesn't seem overly expense and having a clear finish could turn out quite nice if you've used a nice finished timber for the tank it's self. If anyone's interested in more info I can put enquiries back through the rep.

hmm, i didn't think they were so pricey, i picked mine up from a regular little pet shop 3 years ago over in North Shore for $30 300watt. next time i'm out that way i'll see if he's still there, and check prices. How much do they usually sell for in a dedicated fish shop? shop around if they're more than $40

Looking through old TFH magazines (late 60's early 70's) nearly every 2nd add is for a Reverse flo U/Gravel filter. they seemed to be all the rage back then. Looking through shops etc lately they're no longer around, everythings back to the old classic U/gravel filter. Anyone know what happened to them? not so effective or unhealthy? Many thanks