alanmin4304

Don't wish to be too critical of you ingenous theory but it does not take into acount the efficiency of the lighting system. Watts is the power used rather than the actual light output. A not very efficient system will use a lot of power but most of that energy will be given off as heat and only a very small percentage as light. Your theory needs to express the relationship between light given off and water depth (not a straight line graph) and to also take into a/c the type of light for the purpose (e.g plants need red light but there is vitually none at one metre water depth. I know nothing about light requirements for marines but they will be different as will the light penetration of sea water). Good luck with your continuing work. Einstein only came up with some of the theories.

Jaeger are top quality and top price. There is a button on the top which you pull up. If it is second hand it may stick a little initially and need assistance with a knife or screw driver. Place it in water of a known temperature for about 10 minutes with the button up then turn the dial until the dial matches the water temperature and push the button properly down. It is now adjusted correctly and you can make finer adjustments as required. I have a number of them and have never had them fail yet. Best on the market in my view.

He is not GM though, only SM (steroid modified)

They may be looking for the door to the bathroom

The advantage of the tabs is the vitually forever shelf life and the pre measured dose. The tabs are not that soluble but I would suspect that is mainly the carrying agent. I think a warning on the proper use of antibiotics and their use as a last resort would be in place. If the balance of nutrient that caused the outbreak is not corrected it will return.

They have a time (can't remember when it is) where they come ashore to malt and peoplr often thin they are sick or injured.

The only red plant I know of which will grow Ok without realy intense light is alternanthera reineckii roseafolia which is usually sold as red hygro. The rest are realy pot plants and will do better on your window sill. I would think you would need around 60 watts of flouros at a minimum to grow plants in 400mm of water.

I would be careful using liquid because it could have other aditives to make it taste better including sugar which may cause a bacterial bloom.

Why did you treat with acriflavin? It acts mainly as a bacteriacide and most people would use meth blue to stop the spread of fungus on infertile eggs to good eggs.

Kribs would be a good place to start. I have some that are crossed to rabbits going at the moment and you could expect 60-100 fry. Breeding them is easy it is selling them that is the challenge.

Brine shrimp flake in the mail today

I tried a wee while ago to get some from my local vet for control of cyano but the answer was a definate no. I was told that antibiotics had come under greater control recently and they could only prescribe for a particular problem with a particular animal. Antibiotics are prescription only and to obtain them has been a challenge for many years. Basically the rules have to be bent.

The female will be a lot fatter when conditioned for breeding because of being full of eggs.

That is a lot of difference but like most things with fish if the changes are very gradual things mightbe OK. To just take it from one straight to the other would be asking for trouble.

The other consideration would be the spread of light rather than a point source.

Even at 10 years it would still be twice the cost of replacement. What other advantages do they have?

Mine get spoiled and only get live food. I would suggest if they are used to the likes of flake that you keep them used to that as well as live food so you have that for a backup. I have brineshrimp flake that I got at a good price and could donate to such a worthy cause. If you want some PM me with your postal address and I will stick it in the mail. White worms are good food but need a cool place to survive.

I also grow plants emersed in an unheated glassehouse in summer (not economic to heat over winter) and I bring many plants inside over winter and grow them under artificial light. Some plants do well and others don't like it at all. Blue light keeps plants compact and red makes them scrawny. Still experimenting here so can't help a lot. It could be a goer if the quality of light out put for a longer period would help offset the setup cost. I note that flower growers are still using metal halides

I grow a lot of plants and am a little different to most on here in that I use what worked for me 30 years ago rather than what is fashionable today. My set up is generally 2x 4ft flouros (one growlux and one cool white )with about 10% of the wattage in incandescent. This is what the Germans were pushing 30 years ago. I have used daylight tubes for a year but was not too happy and have reverted to the old way. My lights are on timers 17 hours/day and the incandescants are on dimmers and go all the time. This set up will grow most average plants but not plants needing intense light (which I don't grow submersed because they croak for most people). The cost effectiveness will relate to the set up cost but also the replacement cost. I replace the flouro tubes about yearly. How long would led last?

Nitrates will not make the water acid, as it is caused by hydrogen ions and they are neutralized by hydroxyl ions from things like caustic soda or by reaction with things like carbonate or bicarbonate which act as buffers. You may be producing acid waste along with your nitrates however. pH is logarithmic so if it takes one drop of acid to turn water from pH 7 to pH 6 it will take 10 drops to go from 6 to 5 and 100 from 5 to 4. pH round 6.5 to 7.5 are very small differences and to try and maintain them is what keeps the shops rich and you poor. Fish are generally happy with constant pH and realy don't ike constant changes as people chase a particular and only theoretical pH. It is useful to have particular conditions when breeding but not so important otherwise. I keep killies in tap water and breed them in rainwater.

Chlorine will not raise the pH. Caustic soda is what is usd by local authorities because acid water very quickly corodes copper and brass.

If you condition them well then do a water change with cold water they will usually spawn next day as the tank warms up again. I used to breed them in bare tanks and use the babies as cleaners to clean up excess food from heavy feeding of other fry like angels.

Genes in angels are in pairs and black is a week gene in most fish. Breeders don't normally breed black/black because (depending on the genetics of the pair) you will get at least 25% double black offspring and they are very week. I use to breed black/gold to black/gold and you get gold and black/golds which are a nice looking and much stronger fish.

If it helps: I have a stand with 2 x 1200mm long tanks which are 450 and 400mm high. Total is over 4 times design floor load (water only) and they are still visable above the floor. It lies the same direction and accross two floor joists and the stand is designed to distribute the load over the complete footprint.

A live bearer is gravid with eggs until they hatch and are then born.