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tank design

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might as well start a new thread on this, i wanna start designing the new tank. i got some insane ideas for water flow, putting the theory to practice and whether it will work is another question and one i'll show via drawings later. i want to base this thread on designing the tank only - bear in mind that EVERYTHING will be designed around aquascaping. i have an idea in my head and have mocked up some drawings of how i want the aquascaping to look. i'll post this pic with how the closed loop will function later on. in the meantime, some questions...

1. what type of glass do you recommend for the front? (layton?) in priority, it needs to be scratch proof, clear and low distortion. low iron glass or something?

2. size im considering is either 1.8 or 2m long (need to measure up fish room), by 900 or 1m wide by 650mm height. the exact size will most likely be determined by the lighting configuration i used, but by initial thoughts are 4 x lumen arc reflectors in a square shape (either all 4 x 400W'ers or 2 x 400W'ers in front and 2 x 250W'ers near rear) then 4 x T5's down either side. like this (if it comes out!):

|| [ ] [ ] ||

|| [ ] [ ] ||

| = T5 (2 x 3ft down each end)

[ ] = reflector with halide

3. overflows - single or twin? im considering twin for redundancy. if single, back corner or middle?

4. i think i've definately decided on stainless steel across middle (like pies) combined euro-bracing (i think thats what its called, basically 4" piece of flat glass all the way around the edge)

  • Author

thanks, going back to single overflow idea to keep it simple now :D

one idea i had for flow is an integrated glass spray bar. this might be hard to explain so i'll chuck in a pic later :D Basically a glass box that ran along the back/bottom of the tank about 100mm high and 50mm deep and run along the length of the tank (between the overflow box and the other end of the tank) In the forward facing piece of the glass would be about a dozen or so 10mm holes, about 50mm above the top of the sand. At the back or at the bottom would be two 25mm inlets (water for the inlets would be taken from two other outlets under the rock work) Water would be fed into the glass box and push flow out the 10mm holes towards the front of the tank. the surface area of the 2 inlets is slightly larger than the surface area of the 10 outlets so the increase in pressure should be enough to cause a nice constant flow over the sand bed. the glass box would create a 'step' at the back of the tank, i would thinking of having that 50mm area as unusable and sliding a piece of perspex in there. that would allow me to put inlets into the back of the tank (as they are now) but have them stealthed by having the holes drilled in the perspex (dark perspex, dark coloured hansen plumbing).

im throwing all sorts of ideas out there at the moment, just trying to get some feedback. constructive criticism more than welcome so long as you can justify it :D im taking the good points and bad points of my current closed loop and trying to advance on them.

Glass could be a problem.

Even standard glass is expensive for a tank that size now. If you went with low iron, you'd either have to get two thinner bits laminated, or buy in some thicker sheets from overseas.

  • Author

big jump in price going from 10mm to 12mm i thought. would probably get 12mm for base, 10mm for sides. 10mm is sufficient, only going 650mm deep.

  • Author

large portion of that cost would be the starfire sheet wouldnt it? have you compared getting it priced in 10mm? who quoted ya that? layton, reef has 12mm low iron on his tank

Go you good thing - planning is everything.

Just for giggles I might try and design my ideal tank - building it could be a whole new story though. :lol: Space and bank balance may put the brakes on it but by the time I can afford to build it should have designed one hell of a tank :lol:

Keep us all up to date, chim

  • Author

Got a quote on starfire glass from Metro Glasstech in Chch. I asked for a price on 1800x650mm starfire glass in both 10mm and 12mm. They dont supply 12mm themselves but have another supplier in the North island they can onsell in 12mm. Prices include GST and edges polished:

10mm = $441

12mm = $738

For clean cut edges, save $80 for the 10mm and $99 for the 12mm

Quite a jump for 12mm. I think I will definately go starfire for the front panel and probably opt for 10mm

  • Author

using starfire for front only, no need for me doing sides and back if its an inwall. i think i'll stick with 10mm, lower safety margin but what the heck good bracing will certainly help.

using starfire for front only, no need for me doing sides and back if its an inwall.

Not a good idea, as using normal glass on the sides will reflect to the front panel.

  • Author

front piece only will be starfire, worth the $441 i reckon just to get that extra clarity. whats it worth for a piece of float in 10mm at that size anyway?

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