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Ammonia Problem or Haunted Tank? Help my little niece!


r0bbie

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Hey guys,

Apologies for the long post, I have tried to include as much info as possible. I have tried the search feature but it is currently out of order.

I have had my own tank for a while and have (luckily) never had a water quality issue.

Over the last few months I have been helping my brother set up a tank for the benefit of my young niece (who is very cute btw) as she loves to spend time looking at my tank. Initially everything went well until about 3 months he started losing fish. He has now lost almost all of his fish and has only 3 neons left.

I took my test kit around and have been regularly testing the water. According to the guide in the kit, the pH, nitrates & nitrites are all at normal levels. The ammonia on the other hand is out of control. Over the last 3 weeks it has been testing at between 6-8ppm. Taking avice from several websites we did regular water changes and used ammo lock to try and sort the problem.

Over the next 3 weeks we continued to test the water but with no change. (I know that ammo lock does not remove the ammonia but makes it non toxic to be removed as the tank cycles.)

Just recently with with still no change with another 2 losses and nothing to lose we decided to take a more drastic measure and did a full water change with water from my tank but straight away the ammonia measured the same as it did previous to the water change. Where is the ammonia hiding?

We have checked the tank high & low for any decaying matter or food that can be casing the problem but the tank is clean.

In its short prime the tank had only 10 fish (8 neons, 1 saimese fighter & 1 small bristlenose) which where introduced slowly over time.

The tank is a Jebo R338 which is one of the all in one jobbies with the filter and light built in.

ANY help would be very much appreciated here as I am at a complete loss as to what to do next. I really am starting to think the tank is haunted.

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OK i have a couple of ideas for you

When the filter was/is cleaned how is cleaned?

Also how much food goes into this tank?

Has the gravel been gravel vaced at all?

A fighter generally isnt a great idea with neons and I have noticed them eating the neons

IMO if there arent any Nitrites then the tank isnt cycling at all which would mean the filter is being cleaned under the tap

Also to much food will cause alot of ammonia

Id say now stop feeding them every day only every 2nd or 3rd

Water change every couple of days only 30%

Check water quality and when Nitrates are rising then its cycling

As you know Ammolock wonrt remove it it also will not change the results from your test kit

The majority of ammonia test kits convert all ammonia to free ammonia and then test it

So its possible to have high ammonia from a test and not have an ammonia problem

Whats the PH of this tank?

Brad

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Thanks for the reply. I will try and answer all your questions.

-The filter has not yet been cleaned. It is filter wool & noodles. Is there another media we should get?

-He feeds the fish every couple of days and only gives them the tiniest amount.

-We vacum the gravel whenever a watercahneg is done.

-The fighter seemed to be OK & was the 1st to die.

-The pH last I checked was 7.2

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How well is the pump working? I had problems with my little jebo at work and discovered the pump was only just functioning. In the end I changed to a UG filter and its been fine since. Maybe something dead is stuck in the pump?

Cheers

Jude

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the pump seems to be working fine & flow is good. Water is pumped up into the hood where it goes through noodles & wool then through a series of holes into the tank. Is there any additional media that I should be adding to the filter to aid the cycling process?

Is anyone able to answer why the ammonia would still be so high after a full water change? That is really doing my head in at the moment!

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Yeah, Ammo lock is definately the problem, your tank just isn't cycled at all. Try taking some of the media from one of your fish tanks and putting it in your niece's filter, it will seed the tank with nitrifying and nitrafying bacteria.

Herefishiefishie, not cleaning your filter in months is fine, the only time I generally clean mine is when the flow from them decreases beyond acceptable levels. The brown crap in filters is actually accumulated iron (and not fish crap, as you might think), I've been told.

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Yeah, I only clean mine when the flow is effected which normally works out to be 4-6 weeks.

I will take my used filter sponge the next time I change it out which is due in the next week or so.

Thank you are for your great advice. I am positive that you have made a big difference!

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The longer you leave the filter without cleaing it the less it will actually work

Once it starts to clog alot of bacteria will die off as there isnt much water flow through therefore starving it from Oxygen

Once it gets to the point it will stop removing ammonia from the water

Also Ammolock and such products will not remove ammonia from the water they convert it to ammonium which is non toxic to fish and the bacteria will convert this to nitrite still

Id start with cleaning your filter fairly often to keep it at a maximum level of filtration

Keep up regular water changes

This will work it self out eventually though i believe the maintanance of the tank will be the cause of the problem

Brad

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OK, I think we have a plan.

I have put a chunk of my filter sponge into his filter to give it a kick start

We will continue to do regular water changes (using stress zyme)

We will feed the fish every other day and only the tiniest amount

I will keep an eye on the filter. We hadn't cleaned it yet as it really wasn't that dirty and flow was definately not effected.

I will test the water every week. Hopefully I will see signs of progress when I test it again on Tuesday.

I have tested the tap water and didn't find anything unusual.

Have I missed anything?

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While your ammonia may peak at 0.5-1ppm during a cycle, just make sure it doesn't go any higher than this, and keep changing water until it lowers. The accuracy of most tests is to 0.5, so if ammonia is detectable, its considered lethal. Anything higher than 0.5 is considered 'fish lethal' according to most resources I've read. So if its detectable, its considered lethal, which is why its recommended only lower cost/hardy fish are used for cycling such as neons etc

For your ammonia to get to 6-8ppm I'd personally put my money on an ammonia based cleaner getting too close to the tank at some stage. I just can't imagine it getting THAT high without a cycle establishing unless you've been using Ammo-Lock everyday since the tank was originally set up. The fish would have started dropping off a LONG time ago if this was a gradual build up. Also I feed my fish about 2-5 times daily, so in your case overfeeding clearly is not an issue and even with a tiny $5 sponge filter a perfect nitrogen cycle would have started and easily maintained the tank in those conditions.

From your post above it sounds like you've done everything perfectly :) If your ammonia is higher than 1ppm definately do some larger water changes though, most of the bacteria is on surfaces of the aquarium and not in the water. A change in pH etc from fresh water will be less stressful than such high levels of ammonia.

I'm no professional here, if I'm wrong I'm sure I'll get shot down (I hope!!). Good luck with the tank!

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Yeah the test kit might be faulty

Though a Ammonia reading of 6-8 is very possible and a regular thing

I test water for customers and my own tanks around 20-30 times a week and the amount of times i have tested water that is higher then 5ppm ammonia is amazing and always they are losing some fish but not all

The PH of the tank affects the toxicity of Ammonia quite alot

the lower the PH is the the more ammonia is coverted to Ammonium which in itself isnt as deadly for fish though your test kit wont tell you which one it is

Ammolock will not stop the cycling process and bacteria can still eat Ammonium

If the bacteria couldnt eat it then every tank under 7 PH would not cycle

Brad

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With the tank you are talking about, if its the same as the custom ones here. The flow rate sometimes will not slow down as the water will just skim across the top of the filter material.

When I was selling these sort of tanks, we reccomended customers try a more coarse type of foam & if you have room add more bacterial products. eg; ceramic noodles, matrix & the like.

Ammonia reacts with water to form ammonium hydroxide

Yes Alan you are right, the excess waste... tends to form Ammonia Gas (NH3). Ammonia, in contact with water, forms Ammonium Hydroxide (NH4OH), a highly toxic substance. Its toxicity depends on temperature, pH, and water salinity.

As Brad said too; the more acid the pH, more Ammonium Hydroxide is neutralized and so the ammonia toxicity is reduced. On the other hand, more alkaline pH means more dangerous Ammonia.

Luckily, this substance is consumed by bacteria {Nitrosomonas} which in the presence of Oxygen transform Ammonia into Nitrite {NO2}, hence the need for good fish keeping practises.

Frenchy :D

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I don,t know but I would have thought the ammonia reacting with the water would raise the pH by the production of hydroxyl ions. If it locks up ammonia I would have thought it would lock it up tighter than that. I don't know, I have never used it and have no idea how it works, just curious. I am an old fuddy that avoids these additives and and tries to do things that will not produce an ammonia spike.

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Ammolock ( or alkyl ammonium chloride) when reacting with ammonia becomes alkyl ammonia (not toxic not soluble in water?) and ammonium chloride (not toxic). The hydroxide that was created when ammonia reacted with water becomes water again, so no pH change.

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