Feelers Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 Thought I'd ask if anyone preferably in Christchurch has a drill bit tht fits the description? Gotta get the holes drilled, the durso built, - and plumbed. Then I'm set! Oh yeah I now have a kick ass stand, - built larger than my ghetto tank, in case I feel like upgrading Pics soon. I had a look on tradme, I'd rather not have to buy one. One thing that did occur to me - anyone wanna goe halves on these puppies? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 313265.htm $27 each instead of ~$42 seems like a good deal. Will both 42mm and 45mm be acceptable? Surphew was 2mm all that you needed to widen the hole? 45 isnt getting too big to be a problem is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 You will need a 50mm hole to get a 40mm hansen through. You will need a 30mm to put a 20mm hansen through. You can use a dremal to hone the holes bigger if you need to, but its a major hastle (drilled 4 holes through my freshwater bow front on Saturday). Good luck, take your time... Pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feelers Posted March 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 Alright, so flow through the durso is probaly gona be in the 5000-7000lph range, and I want to know definately what plumbing I should use. The measurement system doesnt make any sense - it's hard to figure out what's required in terms of internal/external diameter. So for this much flow - how big should the internal diameter of the hanson fitting be? Surphew said he uses 32mm pressure plumbing - which needs a 42-45mm hole. Chim said Can't remember for the 32mm ball valve. Although according to my post in July '04 here I used 35mm holes for 25mm ball valves and that had a good 3-4mm each side to spare from memory. So, to be on the safe side I'd add another 8mm to the ball valve size to cover thread width and some room to add silicon. I want to go with hanson fittings, is this pressure plumbing? Sorry I know squat about it. Are their any benefits to pressure pipe? Would non pressure pipe break or something? Another option is I can drill right through the bottom, since my stand is metal bracing, although I think I'm keen on the durso idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanksman Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 You can use a mix of hansen fittings and Marley pressure pipe no probs 8mm bigger sounds OK. be safer at 10 by the time you allow for thread tho. There is plenty of sealing capacity on the hansen tank fittings, silicone just adds to the safety. Hansen fittings and alcathene are pretty good at handling pressure however I would only use the tank valve and the next fitting is a Marley (the white stuff that you have to glue) There are fittings that enable you to transfer from the hansen back to pressure pipe which is what you want to be using in the bulk of your plumbing - primarily as it looks tidier than the old cockies alcathene pipe. But alcathene would be up for the job as well. With the Marley plumbing you must get it set up how you want it first go as it is glued and rigid. The only way to change it is to buy new plumbing or the fittings you need to make modifications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 Alright, so flow through the durso is probaly gona be in the 5000-7000lph range, and I want to know definately what plumbing I should use. The measurement system doesnt make any sense - it's hard to figure out what's required in terms of internal/external diameter. So for this much flow - how big should the internal diameter of the hanson fitting be? i'd say 32mm would handle it, maybe go 40mm to be safe. i run 32mm out of my tank and do 4,500lph and it handles no problem. Surphew said he uses 32mm pressure plumbing - which needs a 42-45mm hole. Chim said Quote: Can't remember for the 32mm ball valve. Although according to my post in July '04 here I used 35mm holes for 25mm ball valves and that had a good 3-4mm each side to spare from memory. So, to be on the safe side I'd add another 8mm to the ball valve size to cover thread width and some room to add silicon. I want to go with hanson fittings, is this pressure plumbing? Sorry I know squat about it. Are their any benefits to pressure pipe? Would non pressure pipe break or something? so as myself, suphew and pies have all said, drill your holes 10mm bigger than the hansen fitting. i think all hansen fittings are 'pressure' rated. its the plumbing that you need to ask about, non-pressure or pressure rated. pressure rated is thicker piping than non-pressure. make sure you get pressure rated glue too, as there is a pressure and non-pressure rated plumbers glue. non-pressure piping would probably be ok, but for the risk its not worth it. i use 40mm downpipe (non-pressure rated) from my tank down to the sump but use 25mm pressure-rated plumbing for the return and closed loop. Another option is I can drill right through the bottom, since my stand is metal bracing, although I think I'm keen on the durso idea imo there is little difference. through the bottom is out of the way but at the back is easier access. you wont see the back of your tank anyway so whatever is easier for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duke Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 I am looking to drilling 2 x 50mm holes in the back of my tank which is on order with Greg. He does not have a 50mm drill so I will need to look at options. Keven has 40mm hole for his overflow and a 8000l/hr pump and he had to turn it down because the overflow could not handle the water flow. This is the reason I am going with 50mm holes and 40mm piping. Would be a pain in the ass to try and make it bigger when it is too small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 i'd say 32mm would handle it, maybe go 40mm to be safe. i run 32mm out of my tank and do 4,500lph and it handles no problem. There is no way a 32mm hole can do 7000 litres an hr. I put about 7000 through mine and its 40mm. Feelers are you planning a MASSIVE tank? 7000 through the Durso is excessive. If its just a small tank 5foot or less, you will run into some big problems with noise and microbubbles. Because your sump will be smaller (mine is 7 feet long, so its no problem) you will have 7000 litres and hr moving through this too. The water will be sloshing around like crazy. Suphew has this in his tank and its pretty frustrating, he need a much bigger sump or less water movement through it. Pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suphew Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 My return pump is a UP7 so I guess I'm getting 6000-7000 or more LPH down my over flow, I'm using 40mm pressure pipe for my return (all my other plumbing, loops etc are 32mm) think the tank hole was 50mm. When I dremaled out the holes for the 32mm fittings I only did enough to be able to get the fitting through, I don't think you need to have the extra space, the seal is made with the flats of the bulkheads don't know if silicon in the hole sides makes much difference (can't hurt of course). How big is your sump? I'm using a standard sized 4 foot at the moment and think it is too small for the amount of water flowing through it, it's like a river in there and I can't get rid of the micro bubbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetskisteve Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 Duke... Kevan has rectified his problem and is running his UP7 at full bore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feelers Posted March 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 My tank is 1270L x 570hx 400w. Sump is 900 length x 300 wide x 430 high I have a up7 too. I have thought about the problem of too much flow, - I was thinking about something like this..... This way I can remove a bit of head height and have control of the flow. I'll try to find my original plumbing plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feelers Posted March 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 Here's what it'll look like - any problems with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 I think mine is 32mm and I have a guesstimated 4000 LPH(6000something lph pump) through it...And at that point it's getting pretty noisy. I'd say that's hitting the edge of practicality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joze Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 couple of hints: there is more than one type of alkathene, from memory is blue strip and red stripe, red strip is more expensive, stands up to a higer pressure and is uv treated, blue stripe is not treated and will break down and quickly. Get quotes for pvc pressure pipe - for example locally its $27 a metre at the plumbing supplies and $2.50 a metre from the pool suppliers - for exactly the same pvc pipe. Same goes for fittings. Shop around. Each time you put a bend in you will reduce the head by one foot, there is somewhere on the net a calculator for this. If in doubt, talk to the pool guys, they have installed pumps and filters in all sorts of things and situations. You would be suprised at what they know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 Ira - if your still using the tank I made, your hole has a 20mm (30mm drilled) hansen fitting through it. Pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feelers Posted March 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 Cheers guys!!!, good tips alright , so I'll be going same as surphews - good to know that it can handle the same pump as mine. 40mm (can you confirm this is the internal measurement?) pipe , meaning I'll have to drill a 50mm hole. Thats a bloody huge hole! I'll go buy the fitting first and then go from there in picking a suitable drill bit. Is building a durso to fit this going to be easy? And do you guys think a redundancy is necessary? - There isnt that much water in the return section - ~40L, so it wouldnt be a major flood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suphew Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 Yep the bulkhead and tap are 40mm, from memory the durso itself is made from 50mm down pipe, this is because it is in the tank so doesn't need to not leak and 50mm pressure fittings cost heaps. The lower half of the return is all 40mm pressure pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feelers Posted March 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 So with the up7, according to the box it has 32mm(external) pipe fittings - how am I supposed to connect this to pvc? Did you use those hose clippy things? Arent you supposed to keep the diameter the same the whole way up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suphew Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 I use 32mm up and 40mm down. Yeah the connection is a pain, I run mine in the sump so am not that worried, basically I heated up some clear flexible tube and jammed it over th clippy thing, I then got a 32mm fitting and jammed that in the other end. I used the dremal on the 32 fitting to put some groves in so the tubing is less likely to slip off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanksman Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 It is the intake side you don't want to choke. restricting the outlet side is OK. Does the LP7 look like this? http://www.azponds.com/images/pumps/laguna_pump.jpg If so does that hose connection fitting unscrew revealing a male thread moulded from the pump? or is the hose fitting part of the mould? It looks like it comes off meaning you could use a pvc fitting that has a female fitting off the pump thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feelers Posted March 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 Thats the one, That whole top bit comes off- see where there's a grey bit on the left, it unclips right off, leaving an upright unthreaded bit with a little o-ring near the top. If that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanksman Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 Yeah it's hard to put into words Oh so it's a clip on job? Might have to have a workaround like suphew suggested. Unless you took to it with a die? I am sure I could wreck it for you Maybe a plastic specialist might be able to convert the hose connection piece into a threaded male? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feelers Posted March 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 Another quick question - my tank is 575mm tall, I'm trying to workout what glass thickness will be required for the durso. I think the tank is 10mm, or 12mm, but am I correct in thinking that 6mm will be thick enough? The majority of the durso section will be full with water all the time - so the pressure will be roughly even - just wanted to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feelers Posted March 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 Oh yeah - I'm beginning to start to think about my lighting - gonna DIY a hood (well try to - last time I did this I bought $110 worth of wood thats sitting in the garage :evil: ) Anyways, since this is for an octo tank(well, and other things that may or may not get eaten) real lighting isnt required - but perhaps you guys have some suggestions for what would look cool? I really like the blue colour of the t5's - (my tanks 1300 long will they fit?), and I dont wanna spend much. So any ideas? Ohh and I just realised my Wharehouse moonlights are not gonna be very helpful - octopuses vision is heightened in the blue part of the spectrum- meaning it would be like blasting daylight at him, Bugger it. :evil: One cool thing is if I get red "moon" lights, I can see it but it cant see me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 Durso wall thickness is unimportant. I have used glass on my first tank and it was 4mm. I use perspex now, and I use 5mm because it was what they had, would happly have gone down to 3. My 2nd tank used 10mm perspex and its too think, so i'd reccomend 5ish, easy to work with. Pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 Those Trade Me prices are pretty good, my 35 ml one cost me close to $130.00. Wondering if I got ripped off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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