slash Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 http://www.trademe.co.nz/structure/auct ... d=38841011 Do u think this can hold a 450L tank? , or should i cut its legs off so its more weight destributed? My tank size is 172cm x 50cm x 52cm Iam looking to cut the top off so the tank will fit in flush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluetom Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 I think its fesable. I would cut off the legs and put some 4x2 inside the cupboards vertically to add extra support. Looks nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slash Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 only one minor problem, the width of my tank is 50, but the table is 48, do u think i can add a sheet of mdf (15mm) over the table top so it works?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wok Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 yep cut the legs off and put some extra supports inthe middle of the doors. Mdf will do the job nicely. I have done that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluetom Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 You might find if you cut the whole back off it is acutally 50, There may be no need for MDF however if there is that sounds fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Glue and screw a cleat under the shelf at each end. These joints are only end-glued and dowelled, and are too weak for what you want to do, unless the cleats suggested are added. Alan 104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slash Posted October 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 what exactly is a cleat ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Didn't you take wood-work at school?? A cleat is a narrow piece of wood, prolly about 25mm to 50mm wide, 25mm thick,and approx 400mm long, not "L" shaped, rectangular. and running under, and hard up against the underside of the shelf. PVC glue, and screw, this to the walls of the table, and the glued to the underside of the table-top. It will then make a better support for the ends of the table-top. Also make sure to add more nails to the back cover of the unit. This (the backing)acts as a brace for the unit. You'll need extra fastenings on the whole perimeter of the backing, as well as the walls that go thru from front to back. Failure to do this, could result in the whole thing collapsing in a sideways, diagonal movement. Alan 104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toughchicken Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Failure to do this, could result in the whole thing collapsing in a sideways, diagonal movement. No one wants this to happen!!! You could also use steel cleats, but that could be an over kill, and you would need to screw fix it. The only benefit is that it’s less likely to be visible when opening the cabinet door, as the cleat is 'L' shape. It also wouldn’t have to run the full length of the corner that you would be fixing it to, using two cleats at each end around 50mm wide with four pre-drilled fixing holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiverJohn Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 the only thing i would suggest woud be extra supports in the middle. The span between each end and the single support in the middle is about 85cm. IMO that is too too wide... If you took out the center support, replaced it with two (or 3) supports at about 50cm centers (or 43cm if you go for 3 supports) you might be better off... use the doors and put one at each end. Shelves (or drawers) in the middle and your all done! And add the cleats as suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiverJohn Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Hey #2 thought - ok so i am bored! And i am in the process of making a stand for my 5 footer ( wish i had a pic would make explaining much easier!!) Alan correctly metioned the back acting as a brace to stop diagonal movement of the stand. You questioned if you needed to so anything about 15mm extra width... Is the back made of quite flimsy material? Hard board? If so you could replace it with a backing board of 16mm material which will add strenght and give you your extra 15mm width! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HandS Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Thats wat i was thinking John, kill 2 birds with stone..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slash Posted October 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 so adding something like this on the sides? i didnt get the part about the having the backboard extended ? the big Thick lines being the 6x4 wood(or is it called cleats?) to give more support ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slash Posted October 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 or would this vanity, which would work better, i thought the vanity because of the top surface being the granite like surface , what should i go with? Remove the sink and replace with wood? http://www.trademe.co.nz/structure/auct ... d=38804328 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toughchicken Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 or would this vanity, which would work better, i thought the vanity because of the top surface being the granite like surface I think that you will find its custom wood under that surface. I wouldn't trust it. Personally. For what you want to do, I would go out and get it custom done in a steel stand with plywood insert. Once it has a clear coat, it won’t rust. Then when you have the funds fix any exterior surface you want, e.g. kitchen formica, ply wood, timber veneer. (currently I’m getting two steel custom stands made) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluetom Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 custom wood is really strong, just don't get it wet. Floors are made for it and thats says a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toughchicken Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 custom wood is really strong, just don't get it wet. Its the not getting it WET part that worries me... haha :-? Particle Board is for flooring. Custom wood (MDF) Kitchens etc... both don't do well with water! Weet-bix anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slash Posted October 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 how much did it cost u for the steel frame? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 I have an old kitchen sink unit for a 1350 x 450 x 450 tank Yo don't need to fill in where the sink or basin is But watch that there is no little upturn on the edges to stop water overflow, of the vanity. By the way, the CLEAT goes under the other top. Re-read my other post Alan 104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toughchicken Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 how much did it cost u for the steel frame? ? The cost, I can't help you with that as I will get both of mine constructed for free. A commercial building I drew up needed a lot of steel work for a steel portal frame. So when I talked to the custom steel people, they helped me out with a couple of stands. So I will have to give them a box of beers, or something of that nature. Sketch something up & go out and get some quotes, then you can get the design you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slash Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 for my house floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slash Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 also how much weight can a wood house hold? ,as iam not sure iam going to go under my basement(well notreally as its jsut the ground) and place big supports , shud this work fine? iam gona put like a big plank of wood on the ground, then place about 5 or 10 6x4 vertically (over this is another big plank of wood) so would be something like this Tank is about mayb 60 or 70kgs now ? And its a 450L tank, + gravel manyb 20kg + Table mayb 80kg?? Total about 600kgs Would this work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 Try more like 100-150kg+ for the gravel depneding on the depth and type... My eight foot tank (2400 x 820 x 670) has 750kg of gravel in it. I know there is exactly this much as I bought 20 x 25kg bags of it and used 15 of them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slash Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 this is the type of gravel avilab http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living/Pe ... 714023.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slash Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 Try more like 100-150kg+ for the gravel depneding on the depth and type... My eight foot tank (2400 x 820 x 670) has 750kg of gravel in it. I know there is exactly this much as I bought 20 x 25kg bags of it and used 15 of them... yes but ur surface area is 240x67 = 16080cm2 mines 170x50 = 8500cm2 16080-8500 = 7580cm2 8500/16080 = 52.86%, your bottoms surface area is 52.86% bigger So might a 70kg bag do ? iam not sure, just made some stuff up to compare sizes lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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