Getting Started

[Pegasus]

Hi Members, Sorry folks, I seem to only write l o n g letters.

I’m probably an old ‘fuddy duddy’ having only been involved with fish keeping/breeding/retail/wholesale/ and supply since I was eighteen, (I’m now 62)

Let me, as an ‘amateur’ ichthyologist just run through a ‘non chemical, non additive setup’ that served myself and many other millions in the hobby successfully for several decades long before all these chemicals and additives became popular.

Preparation was the key, and for us ‘oldies’ it was a container/s in the back yard that collected clean strained rainwater. This was our source of top ups, our new water supply, and often our source of live food, if the mossie larva or daphnia got into it.

We would set the tank up, fit the u/g filter, and then arrange the pre-washed gravel. Next we would fill the tank with our pre-aged water from our rain tub, bring it up to the right temperature, let it stand a few days, normally three to ensure the heat was constant and there were no probs. In those three days we would arrange plants and rocks, then perhaps introduce a guppy or two. The old PH testing strips from the chemist gave us a quick idea of the PH level, and if it was alkaline we would run a bit of peat in the filter bowl for a day or so to bring the level right. Basically that was it, with little or no stress to the fish. Our calculation for fish content was to allow 4sq inches of surface area per inch of fish, but with an air supply this could be increased. Water was never added unless it was exactly the same temperature as the water in the tank, and newcomers were never added until they were quarantined for ten days. Plants were meticulously examined for nasties and rinsed in a mild sterilizing solution before adding to the tank. All mainly common sense.

Each tank had it own net and tools, and nothing was ever taken from one to the other. Dipping of fingers or hands from one tank to the other was an absolute sin, and never done. Hands were washed before working on the next tank, and any drips or condensation were wiped away in case it/they dropped from one tank to the next lower one. A single drop of water can transmit a disease from one tank to another so quickly you wouldn’t believe. Water changes, (In my case) were done on a visual basis. If the water has evaporated ½†from its original marked level I would do a 30% water change, never every few days, and never more than perhaps once a month, and always using my aged water in the outside tub/s.

A balanced tank will keep itself free from excess toxins,

eg, the right water conditions, substrate-plants-filtration-and fish, any of which can cause an unbalance.

Water:

Too hard, too soft, too alkaline, too acid, all of which can be balanced without chemicals..

Substrate:

Too fine, (packs down tight) causing bad circulation, especially with u/g filters, whereas too large a gravel will allow food to reach inaccessible places with dire consequences. Food remains uneaten and quickly fouls the tank. Remedy, go for what’s right, not what looks pretty.

Slow deterioration

Badly selected rocks and substrates, (lime-based gravel’s, sandstone’s, corals, shells, ornaments,) all of which will change your tank conditions as they slowly leach or dissolve over time. That ornament or substrate may look great, but is it killing your fish?

Plants:

Too few plants, no hiding places for fragile fish causing fish to be bullied. Again, find out the likes and dislikes of your plants, for instance, most Crypts prefer dimly lit areas, etc. Shallow gravel will not produce good plants. Bank your gravel to the rear of the tank (at least 3â€) and plant accordingly, big deep rooted plants to the rear, small types to the front. As with your garden, they need feeding and something to get their roots into. The wastes from your fish may in most cases be enough food, but a good root structure and light are essentials for all plants. A ‘Plantab’ for aquarium plants slipped under the roots will assist flagging plants.

Filtration:

NEVER turn your filter or air off for any length of time, especially an undergravel filter. The bacteria buildup will skyrocket causing major probs instantly. Always have some form of air supply running if your tank is in the least bit crowded. Watch for fish lurking near the surface with open mouths, a sure sign of lack of oxygen in the water. (Not the Gouramie’s, Betta’s etc, who/which are surface breathers) For these fish ensure the surface is scum free by dragging a sheet of paper over the surface of the water occasionally. This will completely remove the thin film that sometimes forms on the surface of the water. Check each day.

Heat Distribution:

Fit your heater as low as possible in your tank and clear of the gravel, and if it is a separate unit from the thermostat place it at the opposite end of the tank. This will prevent cold spots in your tank and provide a constant temperature at all levels. (Heat rises, so if possible fix your heater horizontal rather than vertical position for better heat distribution)

Feeding:

Feed half as much as you think your fish need, and if its not consumed in under five minutes, you are feeding too much. An established tank will sustain your fish for a week or more without food, so don’t think you need to feed them every time you pass the tank. "Ooh look, they’re all excited at seeing me, they must be hungry…â€

In goes another feed, the third today. How often have you done or said this.

Never feed at night then turn the lights off and leave the fish in darkness, a major problem. The cory’s and koolies won’t mind, but your tank will suffer.

Small fish have small mouths, so vary your food type to suit them all. Give them a live food treat now and again, brine shrimp, micro worms, grindal worms, white worms, or even a chopped up earth worm if you have big fish. In time you will know their likes and dislikes. Probs with algae, throw the scraper away an get a couple of small Pleco’s. They’re fun, hardy, and adore algae. Snails… To me they are a damn nuisance, and have no place in a tropical fish tank, but the fish love them if you crunch them up.

Impulse buying of fish is fine if you know the fish, and of course is great for the LFS, (Local fish shop) but can cause many upsets and even tears if you don’t read first, so take an hour or so and read all you can before you jump in the deep end.

Lastly Fish: Read, read, read, The three rules of keeping fish. Learn every possible thing you can about where your fish comes from, its water conditions, its temperature limitations, the food it eats, the species it can live with, its breeding habits, is it a loner or does it school with others, and in general, its likes and dislikes.

Piranha’s and Neons have an adipose fin, and are distant relatives, but they definitely don’t live together, so read and learn all you can BEFORE you add that particular fish to your collection. (No comments on the Piranha’s please)

It seems a lot to take in all at once, but all this info is on this site just waiting to be read if you care to read and study it.

My philosophy is that “If anyone can teach me something I will listen, should it be a child, or a ninety year old,†so I am learning each time I read these boards.

We all lose fish at some time or other, and the reasons can be mystifying, but personally I feel that many of the losses on the boards are caused by either sheer neglect and not making ones self familiar with the fish BEFORE purchase, along with the possibility that many of the fish were actually poisoned due to the intake of chemicals, incorrect or too many water changes and such.

We can take a pill for a headache or an ailment, but if we take too many of them it will undoubtedly kill us. This will possibly cause a lot of backfire from the clued up aquarists, but I still feel that if you read up on your fish, get to know its habits and living and water conditions and the neighbours it lives with, then you are well on the way to having a less stressful and very enjoyable hobby. Many newcomers try it once and leave quickly after their first failures. We don’t want this to happen to you, so read the postings, consider your situation and your setup, then, and only then think (very carefully) about your next purchase.

Regards

Pegasus NZ (Bill)

[Caryl]

I myself have never put additives or chemicals in any of my tanks. The pH etc is rarely checked either. It is survival of the fittest for my fishes!

They are also only fed once a week (if I remember). This means I can go away on holiday without having to find someone to feed the fish while I am away and possibly overfeed them. If I am away for more than a week, I put the right amount of food required in a small container with instructions to my letterbox clearer and cat feeder to just tip the contents in at the end of the week. I also make sure all other containers of fish food are put away so they don't accidently grab the wrong one.

[Pegasus]

Must admit, I was quite worried leaving them for a week, but I returned to an absolutely sparkling clean tank, with no losses, so it can be done.

Good one Caryl

Bill (Pegasus)

[Caper]

NEVER turn your filter or air off for any length of time

What is considered "any length of time" Bill?

Everything gets turned off when I do a cleaning or a water change. The longest things are off is when I do the cleaning.

[Jo1]

Thanks for the very informative post Bill. One question.

The mild sterilisation solution for plants - what do you use? We regularly find small snails in the filters which are not visible on the plants and would love to eliminate this.

[Faran]

Water with a little bit of bleach sterilizes plants. Of course, give them a good rinse straight away to wash off the bleach and what-have-you before putting them in the tank. May lose a few leaves afterwards, but the new growth will be healthy and happy - and snail free.

[Aqua]

I've heard a very weak solution of potassium permanganate is helpful for removing snails etc from plants - but again, it needs to be very well rinsed so it doesn't kill fish!

[FindingNemo]

May I say this is the most imformative thing i have read and very helpful.

[Pegasus]

WOW Caper... You dug up a post that is over three years old

What is considered "any length of time" Bill?

A few hours would be fine.. but if left overnight the benificial bacteria would start to die off. You can of course leave it running in a bucket full of tank water if an emergency occurs.

Jo 1 asked:

The mild sterilisation solution for plants - what do you use?

As Aqua and BlueKim mentioned... potassium permanganate or a very mild bleach solution.

The LFS's sell a sterilizing solution that they use for nets and such.. but not sure what it is.

Thanks FindingNemo.. lots more info on my site if you find time

Bill.

[Caper]

Yep...still lots to read & learn on here

No...my tanks are never off for that long...so I'm ok then. As I've said, longest off...when giving monthly cleaning!

Thanks Bill!

[vapo]

How about a saline solution? Would that work to get rid of snails? If so, does anyone have an idea as to the concentration?

I must say, I wish I found this thread a month ago, when we were starting out. Very informative. Thanks Bill.

Cheers,

Vapo.

[Shelley]

Thanks for digging that post up.....Excellent easy to read information

[Pegasus]

Thanks everyone for your kind comments

Vapo asked:

How about a saline solution? Would that work to get rid of snails? If so, does anyone have an idea as to the concentration?

Not heard of that one.. but beware of anything that "gets rid" of something, as you will always be left with a cleanup afterwards.

The best "natural" method of snail erradication seems to be the "night time feed" method.

You place a piece of lettuce or cucumber in the tank and the snails arrive for a mass feeding, then the "bait" is removed complete with snails each morning.

They say it takes a few goes at this.. but it certainly reduces the snails each day

Clown loaches are said to love snails also, but are not the easiest fish to keep. They also make a good meal for any fish if squashed against the glass

Bill.

[vapo]

I was just asking as garden snails are averse to salt. It dries them out almost immediately, so I was wondering if a salt bath (then rinse) for plants before putting them into the tank would be appropriate to get rid of any unwelcome hangers-on. Perhaps I'll just give it a try. Yes our clown loaches will love the snails if it doesn't work anyway.

Cheers,

Vapo.