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After 11 years it was time to move


SteveA

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The tank since 1994...

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The space it left...

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Getting ready...

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Old carpet ready for the odd teething trouble.

It Arrives, 90% the volume of old tank but 98% of surface area...

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Having survived the slide down the concrete stairs....

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Tight corner...

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Last corner...

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Going In...

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Done...

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Thanks for the help boys.

Going...

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Still to do (in order):

- Add automatic evaporation replacement similar to old tank

- New electric supply (sub main, check meter, 3 RCD outlets)

- Move electrical equipment outside room

- Move skimmer and sump outside room

- New light system (probably going from 4 to 5 400W bulbs.

- Program up Moeller control relay to manage the thing.

Steve

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Oh, yes - a few details...

One small coral (favia) physically lost during reef rebuild.

No other fish or coral losses apart from the odd branch (about 5, and not counting a few tips) that needed to be epoxied back in place next to their parent colony (fragging can come later).

The rock was transported in 2 x 200L drums fill with it and tank water. Many of the most delicate corals (including foliaceous montipora) were transported on top of the rock in these drums and this proved the least damaging method, in fact no coral was damaged at all during transit in the top of a drum. All other rorals were transported wrapped in wet paper towels in styrene boxes and these were the ones that lost some tips.

God it took along time to get the animals accross.

Steve

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nice dude! an 8 footer by the looks? i like this pic of ya acro!

He managed to loose 3 x 1.5 cm tips, that didn't exist when that photo was taken, near the base. This one went in paper towels.

Tank is 2400 * 1000 * 650.

Steve

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Looking good Steve, bet you had a busy weekend aye!

Was good helping you put the tank in, but looking forward to viewing it up and running.

Time to set up the stereo and start enjoying yet???

Craig.

P.S. if you need a home for some of those broken tip's, I'm sure I can find some space :wink:

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Tank looks great, I like the aqua scaping.

I would personally go 8x250w.

I found that getting a better spread of light is more important than brightness.

Been disappointed with my 4x400w, more light than previously but no benefit upgrading to 400w.

All my corals are doing well under the 400w but when they are away from the light they are not doing as well. So I am going to change to 8x250w.

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looks like a very succesfull move, the tanks looking great already other than the cloudy water.

how long did it take all up??

Pic was taken about 10 minutes after adding the sand. Had a drink in hand by the time it cleared and taking a new pic didn't seem so important at the time.

The main move took from midday Saturday (30 April) to 04:30 Sunday (01 May) morning. Tank was pretty much up and running with lights and skimmer by Monday evening. Took two days to dismantle old tank and stand into a skip.

More details:

- Eight corals (1 monti, one seriatopora, 6 acro) were transported into a tank at another site on the Thursday prior.

- On arrival, rock went into main tank and corals and fish went into spare 600L tank beside it. This let me build the reef structure without worying about the animals.

- Animals existed, quite hapily, without filtration or lighting in 600L tank till Monday.

- Corals brought home from other site (except 1 acro and the seriatopora - which I had dupes of) the Saturday after the move.

AND, having followed a few threads about the circulation systems many of you guys are now using, I am thinking of fitting one of these to the tank..

HamiltonJet.jpg

Steve

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Time to set up the stereo and start enjoying yet???

It's still far too noisy for that. Once I get the spur for the Hifi installed (same time as new tank wiring) and all the equipment, particularly the plumbing, out of the room I will give it a go.

Most of the small tips I just biffed (rather too buggered to wory about collecting all but significant branches) but there are plenty more still waiting to be plucked if you need the odd new colony. I actually did more damage removing corals from the old tank than transporting them or putting them in the new tank.

Steve

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Tank looks great, I like the aqua scaping.

I would personally go 8x250w.

I found that getting a better spread of light is more important than brightness.

I'm actually very seriously thinking of going the other way to two 1000s that move along the tank. I have already written the program for the Moeller to control this.

The problem with more bulbs is more cost. A 250W bulb is not generally only 62.5% the cost of a 400 and the drive gear isn't scaled in cost either (then, of course, is all the crap above the tank). I suspect 2 x 1000 will be a lot cheaper than 5 x 400 over an extended period and , if they move, will probably do a better job.

Even if I stick to 400s I still plan to make them move.

Steve

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I suspect 2 x 1000 will be a lot cheaper than 5 x 400 over an extended period and , if they move, will probably do a better job

moving lights? now that would be an eye sore. aesthetically would this work? do you mean moving constantly back and forth or over a period of time? I havent seen the sun do this in the last 31 years (oops, did i just give away my age? :D ) but maybe it would work...?

i got dedicated 20amp circuit for ALL my marine kit which is WAY overkill. still, it was easier that way coz we were re-wiring the house anyway! :wink:

btw, nice pic pies, whats wrong with your hands? doing a little dance mate? :lol:

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Something to think about when getting your new powerboard setup, I talked to a few electrical suppliers about timers that would handle MH lights. It seems to be luck of the draw if you get a timer that will handle the load for long. I know Pies has had success with the pudney timers.

But anyway you can get high current relays that fit to your power board they are the only thing the electrical wholesalers would guarentee could handle the start up current long term.

Just some thing that might be worth looking at since you have the option unfortunately it wasn't an option for me.

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moving lights? now that would be an eye sore.

Not at all. They will move along a rail/track inside the light hood and the mechanism won't be visible to anyone who doesn't have their nose poking into the gubins. They will make 3 or 4 moves (4 or 5 different positions) during the course of a day and then return to their starting point after lights out (can't remember exactly how many moves I put in the programme now).

i got dedicated 20amp circuit for ALL my marine kit which is WAY overkill. still, it was easier that way coz we were re-wiring the house anyway! :wink:

The whole tank will be on circuit, using 6mm cable, capable of driving a stove/oven. Off this will come three seperate feeds. I have borrowed a drum of 6mm cable to do the tank and two HiFi spurs and I only have to pay for what I use.

Steve

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Something to think about when getting your new powerboard setup, I talked to a few electrical suppliers about timers that would handle MH lights. It seems to be luck of the draw if you get a timer that will handle the load for long. I know Pies has had success with the pudney timers.

But anyway you can get high current relays that fit to your power board they are the only thing the electrical wholesalers would guarentee could handle the start up current long term.

Just some thing that might be worth looking at since you have the option unfortunately it wasn't an option for me.

Been there and managed to chew thru even some high quality (theoretically, expensive anyway) German timers. The older timers were better, they just make shit ones these days. I now just use two ordinary timers that switch on solid state relays - no MH is going to stress those babies.

Steve

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Chimera - Lots of people using lighting systems on rails. I looked at it, but don't have the skills to get in running.

Reef - Why not stagger the 400s, front back front back etc like on mine. I like the 400s more than the 250s, but its a different tank so hard to know if it has really made much difference. The bulb replacement cost of 8x250 is why i didn't go this way in the end. My acros grow anywhere in the tank, and my tank is 950 wide.

SteveA - Need to pop over for a look first hand, looking awesome.

PS: Whos that good looking fella in all of the photos? ;)

Pie

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PS: Whos that good looking fella in all of the photos? ;)

Pie

Shirley did take another photo or two with you in but I hesitate to put one of them up here being that this is a family show. :o

Drop over any time. Will be out tonight till about 19:30 tho.

Steve

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Not at all. They will move along a rail/track inside the light hood and the mechanism won't be visible to anyone who doesn't have their nose poking into the gubins. They will make 3 or 4 moves (4 or 5 different positions) during the course of a day and then return to their starting point after lights out (can't remember exactly how many moves I put in the programme now).

Steve

Gotta agree with steve on this one. If it was hidden it would be an awesome idea. Almost like the sun being at different angles at different times of the day (in that the light intensity hitting different areas would be varying).

I guess the mechanism would need to be pretty quiet though.

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