White spot on Discus

[Rodica]

Hi everyone

I really need advice as I doubt what I have been told to do could be right.  I have several discus, various roaches, gold nugget pleco and various tetras.  I noticed that one of my discus has what definitely appears to be itch.  I bought some Wunder white spot treatment and was told to dose the tank 1/2 the mount recommended not to upset my fish.  Was told that it would take longer than usual for it to go but it would go.  I am concerned it is not enough.  I have increased the temp a to around 30 degrees and did put together 12 tablespoons of tonic salt in water and poured some into the tank.  I decided not to put it all in as I was concerned about how my gold nugget would react.  Am I doing the right thing here.  The itch is quite obvious on my discus. Thanks for any help offered.

[gligor]

The best thing to do is to separate the discus into a quarantine tank and treat fully over there, as far as I know. However not everyone has multiple tanks, so that might not be an option. I would always be cautious treating the full main tank as I've read that the fish that are not sick will also react to the medication and it might impact their stress levels etc. That might be the reason you've been told to treat using half the recommended dosage. 

Edited April 3, 2016 by gligor

[Zimbaliza]

Maybe able to get away with the increasing the temp method for whitespot (being discus) they should be able to handle the heat?

some of the below stuff I found on the net, whitespot, normally only hits stressed or weaker fish...

some unless info below, save putting any into the tank.

Hope it helps, 

Increase temperature to 30°C/86°F. With tropical fish, an increase in temperature to 30°C/86°F is usually very well-tolerated. Since this temperature prevents reproduction of Ich, it can theoretically cure the problem by itself. So the first step would be to increase the temperature slowly, 1°C/2°F per hour until the correct temperature is reached. This temperature should be maintained for 10 days, and then slowly returned to normal. Some fish can tolerate higher temperatures. If your fish are more heat tolerant, try increasing the temperature to 32°C/89.5°F for the first 3-4 days to kill the Ich. Then reduce temperature slowly to 30°C/86°F, and hold it there for an additional 6-7 days, or until a total of 10 days have passed. Gauge the heat tolerance of your fish by observing their reaction.

Increase aeration. Increased temperature leads to increased metabolism, which enhances the fish’s immune response but also increases oxygen demand. Oxygen is lower in warmer water, so it is very important to increase surface agitation during the treatment to increase oxygenation. In planted tanks with CO2 injection, the CO2 should be turned off and extra aeration should be provided. Carefully observe your fish, watching for signs that they are not getting enough oxygen. If fish are gasping at the surface, you need to provide more aeration. Aeration can be increased by reducing the water level so the filter return makes more of a waterfall and splash, and/or use an airstone placed close to the surface of the water.

Do daily partial water changes. 25% daily partial water changes will provide several benefits: It will keep the water very clean, which will help fish cope with the stress of the disease. It will remove some of the trophonts and tomites. It will add oxygen. This author also recommends the use of NovAqua+ to condition the change water. This product is a dechlorinator and has several additional benefits that help fish under stress, including sealing of the wounds caused by the Ich. If the water changes seem to stress the fish, reduce the size and/or frequency of the water changes.

[Rodica]

thank you, I was going to set up a hospital tank, but after speaking with Amy from the Hutt pet centre, she agreed with my view that my 18 litre tank would stress the fish out.  I am wondering about a salt bath? I read instructions on doing it on a medium sized fish but not a large one, as he is a good sized fish.  He is the only one that seems to have the .itch problem.  Should I still do the water changes even though I have dosed the tank with the wunder stuff? Thanks for all your advice.

 

[gligor]

When I dose I normally do a 25% water change and then dose, then next day do another 25% water change then dose and so on. 

So water change first, then dose, rinse and repeat. 

I normally do 3 days of that, then 1 day 25-30% water change without dosing. 

[Adrienne]

Ich is opportunistic and is not common on discus as the temperatures discus are kept in 28 - 30 deters the parasite.   Ich is only treatable while it is in the water column - when you see it on the fish nothing you do will remove it as the ich is burrowed in under the scales.  When it detaches and drops to the substrate but before it hits the bottom and multiplies - that is the time to treat it.  Keeping your tank at 30 degrees, even 32 will speed the life cycle up to a 7 day one however your plec and loaches are not going to like it.  In getting rid of it you would normally vacuum the substrate well - not easy in a planted tank.  Once it has gone wait 14 - 21 days before you turn the temp back down to between 28 - 30.

To get rid of it completely you also need to look at the cause - is the fish being picked on by others, are the loaches stressing it - some loaches should not be in discus tanks - are the tetra too active for it - is it getting enough high quality food, is it eating well - are your tank lights too bright - is the tank in too high a traffic area.  Unless you resolve what has caused it, it is likely to return again.