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Regular salt addition??


Wayne

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Wondering how many of us regularly use salt during water changes...

i've used salt all the time, around 1.5 - 2 g per L, n it's done wonders for me tanks.

It's cheap, safe, keeps certain protozoan n bacterial numbers low, aids osmoregulation n perhaps stimulates protective mucus secretion...

Although some scaless fish n catfishes r sensitive to salt, 1 g per L is generally safe for all freshwater species..

just wondering if salt at this dose affects the reproductive behaviour of certain fishes..i don't think it does, but correct me if i'm wrong.

n how much salt is there in a brackish environment? :wink:

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I have never bothered with salt myself although I know it is supposed to be beneficial. Do you add more salt every water change? I thought the salt did not 'go away' (can't think of the right word at the moment) so you only added it once as the concentration of salt would rise with each addition.

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1.5-2grams per liter. Hmmm...That actually seems like a hell of a lot. The last batch of aquarium salt I bought came in about a .5 kilo bag, I think. So at 2 grams per liter that would be almost the whole bag going into a 200 liter tank. My 400 that would be a little over a bag and a half. I'd think that would be FAR too salty for anything but a brackish water fish. Although, maybe the bag I'm thinking of was a lot more than half a kilo. I think the recommended max dose for treatment purposes is about 1 tablespoon per 10-15 liters...I'd go and weigh a tablespoon of salt, but I'm out.:( Wait, table salt should be close enough...Ok, 20 grams of salt per tablespoon, so that'd be about 10 liters at your rate and a little less than the max I just mentioned. Never mind me, guess the bags of salt are a lot bigger than half a kilo.:)

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yeah Ira...if u look at it that way, it seems quite a bit.

It's generally safe at 0.1% = 1 g / L for all species.

safe up to 0.3% for most species = 3 g / L.

some authors n meself have found 0.5% = 5 g / L to b useful in some emergency situations---osmoregulatory failure.

Salt baths are worse! u can go up to 30 g /L !! but for only 30 mins max.

usually use 15 - 20 g / L. they r extremely good for skin diseases. much safer than formalin.

Try rock salt instead of aquarium salt. it's far cheaper. can't remember the last time i got salt from the lfs....

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Batman said...

> Rock salt from supermarket saves you huge $$$$$$

I use regular non-iodised salt both for hatching brineshrimp

and as an additive for my killifish tanks. Some killies,

especially Nothobranchius species are prone to getting velvet

if there is no salt in their water. I add about 0.5 teaspoon

per 4L, double that if I see velvet on the fish.

Non-iodised salt is like a dollar a kilo or some such, from the

supermarket.

Andrew.

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yeah, but u 've gotta b careful with supermart salts.

besides iodine, a bigger worry is the anti-caking agent in some products..If it contains yellow prusside of soda--sodium ferrocyanate, it might release sufficient cyanide gas when dissolved to kill your fish.

Obviously, u've got a safe product Andrew :D

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Wayne said...

> .... u 've gotta b careful with supermart salts.

> besides iodine, a bigger worry is the anti-caking agent in

> some products..If it contains yellow prusside of soda--sodium

> ferrocyanate, it might release sufficient cyanide gas when

> dissolved to kill your fish.

And then Midas (so you moved to Hawera? :) said...

> most of the non iodised salts I have seen for sale only contain

> silica and this is to act as a free flowing agent.

Current fishy wisdom suggests the 'silicates' may be more of

a problem than the 'ferrocyanide'... Have a look at:

http://fins.actwin.com/killietalk/month ... 00545.html

I've never seen any problem and use generic 'Skellerup' or

'Cerebos' non-iodised table salt (which are, oddly enough,

made by the same company...). 2kg is under $2.

Of course, YMMV.

Andrew.

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hmmmm cheers Andrew, guess u learn something new everyday :D

i guess silicates may increase the amount of inorganic suspended solids in the water( it's usually clay n mud in aquacultures that r responsible), leading to problems like gill clogging as mentioned, n even clogging of biofilters. however, i still wonder how significant this is at the usual salt doses we use. Also, suspended solids usually have to b big enough to b grossly visible to exert a sig effect on the gills etc...anyone with more info on silicates?

I won't underestimate the dangers of YPS. It's in virtually every textbook, but i must agree i havn't heard of any toxicities associated with supermart salt use. Perhaps they're just not as widespread as in the past. U also need light to release the cyanide gas....another factor to consider.

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I've never seen any problem and use generic 'Skellerup' or

'Cerebos' non-iodised table salt (which are, oddly enough,

made by the same company...). 2kg is under $2.

Andrew.

These brands both contain "anticaking agent 551" (listed in the ingredients) otherwise known as silicon dioxide. Probably no where near enough in it to do any harm I would have thought though, but could be wrong. I've used it for hatching brine shrimp and never had any problems.

PS AJ, I've been here for two months now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers mitch...

yeah, calcium mainly increases the hardness of the water.

Some cichlids do prefer hard water n may benefit from it( probably fontosas).

Calcium is also important in osmoregulation across the gills.

But generally speaking, adding calcium probably does more harm than good.....too much calcium = v. hard water = calcium crystals in the kidneys..how common this is i don't know, but it's well known in salmonids.

tapwater usually contains enough calcium for most species.

anyone heard of solar salts?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

Regular salt addition? The only salt as such I put in, is ordinary supermarket sea salt. To make the water harder, I have extremely soft water here in Melbourne, I use saltcrystals from the LFS. Brought it from 3dGH to 23 dGH!! and a very stable pH (around the 7 mark). As far as 'calcium salt/pool salt' is concerned I don't really know if there are any additional chemicals in it. But I don't think that you can 'overcalcify' the tank water. A human should drink milk to increase the calcium in the body. Again, I don't think you can have too much calcium by drinking too much milk. The body absorbs only what is needed. The rest is expelled, the usual way. So if that poolsalt increases pH and has no ill effects on the fish regarding extra or dangerous chemicals, then go for it. I pay A$20 for 250grams!!! at the LFS.

John

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Actually, you can have too much calcium.

Yeah....that's the whole purpose of measuring GH.... hardness etc..species tolerance/preference .....some species r kinda sensitive to hard water...tetras for e.g

Fish do try to regulate calcium levels( physiologically speaking)....but if levels in the water r too high---say from adding pure CaCl into the water, the gills n kidneys might not b able to handle it. trout commonly get nephrocalcinosis--calcium crystals in the kidneys when reared in high Ca diets or hard water.......so it can actually b toxic, like virtually every other substance :D

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