Totara Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Oh and yes, I dont have the background on yet. I have done this very out of order so I need to attach the background next Dont judge me too harshly, its my first tank Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Your above hardscape is a good start but it lacks order and hierarchy. Start with a large stone that reaches around 2/3 the height of the tank followed by a smaller stone to provide tension. Then place an even smaller stone to compliment the largest stone. Your focal point should be 1/3 of the way across the tank for it to be pleasing to the eye. This guide here is very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Your above hardscape is a good start but it lacks order and hierarchy. Start with a large stone that reaches around 2/3 the height of the tank followed by a smaller stone to provide tension. Then place an even smaller stone to compliment the largest stone. Your focal point should be 1/3 of the way across the tank for it to be pleasing to the eye. This guide here is very helpful. Ok thanks, I will take that into consideration and change the tank around a little bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Oh and yes, I dont have the background on yet. I have done this very out of order so I need to attach the background next Dont judge me too harshly, its my first tank Will I strongly recommend spray painting the back of your tank black, it looks MUCH nicer than those stock backgrounds. Also, you've already bought it, but personally I think sand looks much nicer than that gravel. White or black silicone sand are boss :bggrn: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 ou've already bought it, but personally I think sand looks much nicer than that gravel. White or black silicone sand are boss :bggrn: He'll have better success growing plants in that gravel than in silica sand though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexyay Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 I strongly recommend spray painting the back of your tank black, it looks MUCH nicer than those stock backgrounds. Also, you've already bought it, but personally I think sand looks much nicer than that gravel. White or black silicone sand are boss :bggrn: Another option is to get some black plastic from Bunnings which is used as a liner for plants - I've found that it doesn't reflect and thus makes a great black background without destroying the tank (in case you want something different for future use) - you just have to find a clean way to tape it on (I just have mine cellotaped on as I use it mostly for pictures and the cellotape doesn't bother me). RE: Cycling, might I recommend either using another person's filter media or doing a fishless cycle? I know it can quite a few weeks but the only fish that *might* be able to handle a cycle would be the tetras - BNs aren't great in cycles and really skyrocket the ammonia, and honey gouramis can be quite sensitive to bad water. My favourite and imo most hardy are thicklipped - I've never been a fan of dwarfs Dwarfs are good but note that they are prone to disease and sensitive to water quality. Some say Honeys are pretty similar but I have only "babysat" one for a few months and had no issues but haven't had enough experience/input to tell you otherwise. Those three (honey, thicklipped (often called "Red Honey") and dwarf) are probably the only options suitable for your tank size. Another option would be a betta - again they're sensitive too so best added after the complete cycle. A member from here would probably be happy to do a small filter material trade so you can have an instant cycle - add the tetras the next day and keep them only for a few weeks. I personally wouldn't keep a BN in anything under 70L (remember, they can get pretty big! And poop a LOT) but other options would be pygmy corydoras, otocinclus (my favourite, but definitely add at least one month after cycling as they are very sensitive fish) or a small species of fancy pleco (some only get to 10cm - always check the L-number to see whether it's suitable or not) - HFF often have smaller fancy plecos available. Hardscape is good but like Sam suggested some taller rocks would look nice - it's always good to create height in a tank especially when you only have "pup" plants which aren't quite big enough yet. I like the java fern idea etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 I think people misunderstood me, I already have a plain black background. I just havent attached :3 I am heading to my LFS in about 10 minutes to get some Java moss and 3 fern cuttings. I cant wait to show everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Entry #5 - 23/02/2014 Didnt make it to the store for plants today, but I did redo the hardscape and added on the background - enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Move the two rightmost rocks to the right just in front of the heater and the left pile about 5-10cm to the right too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Move the two rightmost rocks to the right just in front of the heater and the left pile about 5-10cm to the right too. Ok, I will play around with it. I got my API Freshwater Master Test Kit today, here are my test readings: Low pH: 7.6 High pH: 8.2 Ammonia: 0.25 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: 0 ppm The pH seems really high, I will take it to a pet store and get it tested to check. Am I right saying that it is high? Thanks, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camtang Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Nelson tap water is pretty high. From a email I got from NCC a few months ago pH 8.2 – 8.6 TDS 110ppm Nitrate <0.066 ppm GH 92 ppm (as calcium carbonate equivalent) Calcium 17 ppm Magnesium 12 ppm Chloride 6.8 ppm Sodium 5.2 ppm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 So would you say that the test by me was accurate? And if so, will that pH heavily restrict the fish I can get? Should I get some pH down? Also I have redone the rockscape to what I think will be my final design, I am very happy with it. Pic will be up soon. Thanks, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camtang Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I wouldn't touch PH down, try putting some wood in the tank.And if you gas off your water first you could put some in the barrel as well I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I wouldn't touch PH down, try putting some wood in the tank.And if you gas off your water first you could put some in the barrel as well I guess. Will my Live Plants bring it down? Or maybe peat somewhere? Also what do you mean by gas off your water? Thanks, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexyay Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Ok, I will play around with it. I got my API Freshwater Master Test Kit today, here are my test readings: Low pH: 7.6 High pH: 8.2 Ammonia: 0.25 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: 0 ppm The pH seems really high, I will take it to a pet store and get it tested to check. Am I right saying that it is high? Thanks, Will It typically won't limit your fish unless they're sensitive low pH fish - but most captive-bred fish are good in pHs that high, you just have to acclimatize them slowly. Otherwise a small amount of peat in your filter or on substrate will work, but you have to be careful during water changes to not cause too much of a swing. Regarding swings, I probably wouldn't let your tank go below 7.6 if you aren't buffering any new water. Driftwood also lowers pH. Note that peat/driftwood can turn the tank water yellow because it's the tannins released that reduce pH your tanks pH will probably drop as it matures anyway too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Ok I wont worry too much then. On that note, due to the indecision I have been facing around the first fish in the tank, can everyone recommend one fish they think would look good in here, and be a good first fish. Thanks, Totara Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Changed the hardscape to what I think will be the final design - please note the tall rock is hard to make out in this photo. Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Recommendations on fish are difficult, because different people like different things! Live bearers are the easiest starter fish: Swordtails, mollies, and guppies. Neon tetras and other tetras are really easy and hardy. Some swordtails/mollies can have nice freckled colourings, and tetras are always a good addition for some color (neons are just abundant and cheap, but can be prone to diseases due to how they are tank bred these days). Whitecloud minnows look nice and are quite hardy as well. All of these are relatively cheap and good for cycling a tank. DON'T overstock, get only a few fish at the start (3-5 swords/mollies/guppies or 4-6 neons). If you buy a product called "Nutrafin Cycle" it will drastically speed up your cycling process, in some cases you can be fully cycled in as little as 1-2 weeks. Later on you could consider leopard/zebra danios, paradise fish, corydoras catfish Otocinclus are a good first fish for maintaining algae, hardy and easy going. Just will need to feed them some blanched courgette, algae wafers or sinking bottomfeeder pellets as you won't have any algae yet. Later on you can consider getting a dwarf community cichlid, something like a bolivian/blue ram or dwarf gourami. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I already have Nutrafin Cycle, and I have been using it according to the bottle for the past 3 days. Now that I have finished the 3 day adding cycle does that mean I can add a fish? The reason I ask is I cant get how the bacteria can survive for the 3 days afterwards without anything adding ammonia etc. If so shall I add a fish on tomorrow? (The 3 day cycle ended)? Thanks, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoFishing Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 you can put your first fish in as soon as the water is the correct temp, which yours should well and truly be by now. Just start off with the cheaper fish so it's not too expensive if you lose any of them. But to be honest, sounds like you are doing a lot of research and it is now time to just bite the bullet and put some fish in. 5-6 Neon's are always a good start if that's the type of fish you are wanting. Live bearers are also good, but they can overpopulate quite quickly if you are unlucky. So just go for it. You will be fine. :thup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 you can put your first fish in as soon as the water is the correct temp, which yours should well and truly be by now. Just start off with the cheaper fish so it's not too expensive if you lose any of them. But to be honest, sounds like you are doing a lot of research and it is now time to just bite the bullet and put some fish in. 5-6 Neon's are always a good start if that's the type of fish you are wanting. Live bearers are also good, but they can overpopulate quite quickly if you are unlucky. So just go for it. You will be fine. :thup: Ok then On Wednesday I am going to pick up fish(s) (Wednesday is the earliest day, as I want to have added the plants first). Are Neon Tetras reasonably hardy? I thought I read somewhere that Tetras are generally pretty sensitive. Thanks, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I think I may go with a Bristlenose, and dose some Nutrafin Cycle immediately after putting him in. The reason being as he is a poop machine, the bacteria may struggle to deal with the initial ammonia, but after it matures and can handle him well there will be a really good colony going. Is my logic sound here? Thanks, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoFishing Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 If you are at all worried just do more frequent water changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camtang Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=60689&hilit=aging+water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 What exactly do you mean by that post? All I see is that it is better to use a Dechlorinator (Which I have done) rather than letting the Chlorine naturally leave the water. Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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