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Rays 500 litre Temperate Marine


lotofish

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First things first.........

Tank you livingart and coldmarineguy for the inspiration and support in this build.

Time to shut down the planted aquarium and removed all the freshwater inhabitants.

TheStart_zpsdccbf23f.jpg

Next to plan the build:

Need a sump, the bigger the better.

Overflow system

Plumbing

Equipment e.g. pumps, protein skimmer, lights and chiller

Coral rock

Arogonite / coral sand

New testing kits

Found a very cheap 320 litre tank with a cracked bottom some time ago and thought it would be great for a sump on my 660 litre aquarium. After measuring it again I found it would just fit with 2mm to spare on each end under my 350 litre cold water marine aquarium, perfect :)

I repaired the bottom with 6mm glass pieces cut to fit the full area of the bottom, left it to cure for 5 days and then filled it and left it standing for a week. No leaks :thup:

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After emptying the tank I removed the centre brace to improve access into the sump. Then I cut 4 pieces of 10mm acrylic for the baffles and proceeded to glue them in with aquarium safe silicone glue.

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I them painted the stand while the glue was setting and allowed paint and glue to dry for 24 hours

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Next was hole drilling time for the sump and the aquarium.......

I drilled holes in the sump for the return plumbing and the drain plumbing and the same for the aquarium.

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Now the large holes in the top of the stand so I can fit the bulk heads

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Next with the help of my son we move the sump into place

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Plumbing time....

Bulk heads and durso standpipes (40mm fittings). These are installed at different heights so the lower one takes most the overflow water and the higher one takes the leftover and acts as a backup.

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Underside drain pipes with ball valves (40mm fittings)

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Return plumbing, Jebao DC6000 pump with 32mm tee split into two 20mm lines for both ends of the aquarium.

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Connected to bulk heads, swing check valves and ball valves

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Lastly black spiral hose up to the return nozzles.

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The sump filter stack experiment

Other than the coral rock I wanted to create a large biological filtration area in the sump and an easy to maintain mechanical filter. I designed a stacking system that allowed me to use bio balls, Poret foam and Synfil water polisher. In order to increase the biological area and make efficient use of the foam I made spacers out of 4mm acrylic to keep the foam pieces apart. I filled the gaps in between the foam with bio balls.

Bio balls

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45ppi Poret foam

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Acrylic spacer (60mm high)

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Bio balls

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20ppi foam

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Spacer

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Bio Balls

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Synfil water polisher

Step9FilterStack08_zpsecbefce3.jpg

10ppi foam

Step9FilterStack09_zps1713b8d3.jpg

Now the overflow box :think: :think: :think:

Need 4mm black acrylic, sharp power saw blade, router with 45 degree bit and a bending machine.

Only thing I do not have is acrylic bending machine so I had to make that with the help of Google.

First to cut a piece of acrylic 600mm long 480mm high to make a 300 x 150 box to cover the Durso standpipes.

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Next to cut the slots for the overflow combs but first I had to make a jig to hold the pies upright while I cut the slots.

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Then to cut a groove line for the bend

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Now to bend the acrylic

Mechanics of the bending machine was easy to make but the electrics was another story as I was not able to find the correct gauge Nicrome wire for the length of the machine and voltage. I did not want to spend $280 on a variac transformer and my home made variable voltage device kept on over heating the thin nicrome wire I had. Time for plan B, a temporary fix so I could bend this one piece. I used an old aquarium heater and stripped out the nicrome wire. I then shortened the coil of nicrome wire until it glowed a nice red when power was applied. Because the coil expanded significantly when it was hot I had to insulated the area between the wood so it did not burn the wood or have anything conductive against the coil. I glued strips of glass into the gap and set up the machine.

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It worked :-D :happy1: :happy1:

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Lastly glue the overflow box into the aquarium to cover the standpipes.

Step13Overflow07_zpsc73e47ee.jpg

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I made an overflow box during the last week, did the bending by using a butane torch to heat the acrylic and bending it over an edge. I did manage to kill my Dremel in the process, just managed to finish cutting the comb, glad it has a 5 year warranty.

Your tank looks like it's coming along nicely, I'm a little jealous of the size, I'm only doing a 110L saltwater tank with a 60L sump.

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Time for aquascaping with coral rock

Tools; hacksaw, wood chisel, hammer and reef safe epoxy

I used the hacksaw to cut the bottom of pieces so they would stand safely in the aquarium. In some cases a epoxied small pieces to the bottom to increase stability. I used the chisel to shape the coral rock so that several pieces could fit together and look like one larger piece.

Step14CoralRock02_zps5798d39f.jpg

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Finally I can get this aquarium running.

Equipment :

Return Pump - Jebao DC-6000

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Chiller - Resun CL-650

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Chiller pump - Jebao DC-3000

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Protein Skimmer - Bubble Magus Curve 7

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Wave pumps - Jebao WP-40 and WP-25

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Lights - 2 x Green Element MHX24 LED with timers

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Salinity & pH monitor - Water Quality Instrument 2771

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Aquarium and sump was filled with natural salt water collected 1 hour after high tide from Bucklands Beach. Just over 500 litres was pumped in through a pre-filter packed with Synfil water polisher.

Sea water measurements were as follows

Salinity - 34.4 ppt or 1.026 sg

pH - 7.97

Phosphates PO4 - 0.03 to 0.1 ppm

Nitrite NO2 - 0 ppm

Nitrate NO3 - 0 ppm

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Diary of the first 6 weeks.....

After I had completed the basic build and got the systems running it was time to be patient, allow equipment to run in and the tank to cycle. During the first 3 weeks I noticed the ammonia increase to 0.50 and the nitrites increased to 0.25 during the second week. Within the third week Nitrates increased to 5.0, nitrites decreased slightly and ammonia kind of stayed the same.

After 3 weeks things were going well and then it happened. After a long day at work I came home to find a pool of water on the floor, not a big one, probably only 1 litre. After 30 minutes of searching I found a problem, a leak from one of the bulk heads on the tank but that was very small and was dripping into the sump. Well that's a benefit of having such a large sump but still something I need to fix. So if that was not leaking onto the floor then it must be the sump. After another 15 minutes I found it. A small leak between the back glass and the right side. Bother I should have resealed the sides of the sump :oops: :oops:

Switch everything off in the sump, drain the sump, remove everything, clean with fresh water and dry thoroughly.

At least there was no leak from the bottom, touch wood.

Cut all the old silicone out from the 4 corners, cleaned with clinical alcohol and re-sealed. 3 days of curing and then a rinse out. Filled the sump on the 4th day with NSW. All systems are a go ....... phew.

Oh and I did tighten the leaky bulk head. Now I had to start again although the coral rock was cycling away in a 250 litre plastic tank so that may help some.

Next problem is that I had to be ready for some corallimorphs arriving in less than 2 weeks and the tank had not properly cycled yet. :shock: To try and speed things up I placed some volcanic rock from Musick Point in the sump that I collected below low tide and I was doing 10% water changes every 3 days. After a week I noticed a substantial decline in the nitrites and ammonia, both almost 0 and I measured phosphates which was around 0.03. Nitrates were between 0 and 5.0.

The day arrived and I received the corallimorphs. Before placing them in the tank I did a 50% water change. I also made sure I had a backup supply of 400 litres of NSW just in case.

A week later and my new inhabitants are doing ok including the 20 cats eye snails and 5 glass shrimp.

I am testing the water every 2 days and keep up with regular water changes. Any sign of a problem and I hope the 400 litres of NSW will resolve it.

See link to a quick video of the tank

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally after 4 weeks and some fine tuning the Curve 7 skimmer is running in nicely so it is time to build a proper stand for it out of acrylic.

Step 1 - Cut the acrylic pieces from some left over 10mm black acrylic

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Step 2 - Make the legs by glueing 2 pieces together at right angles.

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Step 3 - Glue the legs onto the base

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Step 4 - Done

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  • 3 weeks later...

Received some more stock over the last 2 weeks and have re-arranged things to cater for the new rocks. Also have a double helix fan worm, thanks LA. I have removed most of the brown sea weed as it started to take over some of the rocks so you could not see the jewels. After calibrationg my salinity probe it turns out that the SG did not drop as I thought it did. SG=34.7 :slfg:

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SG_zpsa8b46744.jpg

The problem I have now is that the salinity has taken a sharp drop after a 40% water change with NSW.

What units is that SG in? I'm surprised it would drop after a water change given that I always found the SG of local nsw to be too high, had to dilute it a bit. It was usually around 1.029 and needed diluted to about 1.025.

Edit: I should read ALL the posts before replying.... :sml2:

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I am thinking of adding sand to the tank now but not sure if it should be deep or shallow and what grain size.

I like the look of the 0.2mm - 1mm aragonite and I am favouring a shallow sand bed. The tank is running well so I do not think I need the extra bio filtration from a deep sand bed. Question is how shallow is shallow? 20mm maybe?

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  • 7 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

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