livingart Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 must read http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/11/mini Part 2 http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/12/mini Part 3 http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/1/mini Part 4 http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/2/mini Part 5 http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/3/mini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueether Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 Part 1 is a good read, will get to the rest latter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gymmynzl Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Part 1 is a good read, will get to the rest latter great articles, was a little surprised to see they didn't use Hydrogen Peroxide, its reef safe and works very very well. Much better than copper. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted April 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Any articles on its use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gymmynzl Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Any articles on its use? yup, do a google search on "hydrogen peroxide Cryptocaryon irritans" and you should get a ton of results back. Every time I've got ws it has sorted it out and haven't had an outbreak in 6 years now, mind you i also haven't added new fish for that amount of time either. some of the fish are getting on to 14 years old Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 read another paper on developing a vaccine for it apparently recovered infected fish build up a resistance to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gymmynzl Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 read another paper on developing a vaccine for it apparently recovered infected fish build up a resistance to it Yeah which is cool, kind of like gardia in humans, but the resistance is only short lived about 6 months The articles you linked were some of the best i have read, awesome find. Ciliated Protozoa are one of the most trickily organisms to treat in both fish and humans ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 From memory the mucus layer prevent trophonts attaching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gymmynzl Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 From memory the mucus layer prevent trophonts attaching That would sound right. The Hydrogen Peroxide interrupts the free swimming stage, so if you catch it early on in the cycle it works amazing. Each time I've had the nasty WS, it has saved my bacon.. well saved the fish with other treatments like copper it always stressed the fish to dead, and the nice thing is the H2O2 is reef safe win, and win. There is a product out there called Aqua Medic, by PolypLabs, when used as directed it works really well, you should check it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gymmynzl Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 From memory the mucus layer prevent trophonts attaching Here are a few papers which i was talking about which you might like . http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa157 http://books.google.com.au/books?id=HqJ ... in&f=false and i have this Journal Article "The Application of Hydrogen Peroxide as a Treatment for the Ectoparasite Amyloodinium ocellatum (Brown 1931) on the Pacific Threadfin Polydactylus sexfilis" which i can email to u if u like Cheers Gymmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted May 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 interesting that brine shrimp nauplii consume dinospores Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted May 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 I have 4 temperate tanks on the one system 3 are 90 litres with 2 of those having young leather jackets in them, in one of those the fish have recurring whitespot in the other no whitespot. the only difference in the tanks is that one is full of sponges so i believe that the sponges are consuming the free swimming stage, Tomites before they can re infect the fish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gymmynzl Posted July 10, 2014 Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 I have 4 temperate tanks on the one system 3 are 90 litres with 2 of those having young leather jackets in them, in one of those the fish have recurring whitespot in the other no whitespot. the only difference in the tanks is that one is full of sponges so i believe that the sponges are consuming the free swimming stage, Tomites before they can re infect the fish. OK, so i have run a little experiment, a good friend of mind got whitespot in his tank so we decided to see what we could do to really treat these fish and his tank. We decided to use H202 and a QT tank.We had to set up a new tank with all clean equipment etc to make sure there were no parasite infection. We then soaked the fish in a bucket, no air supply into the water 75-100ppm of H2O2 for 30mins, prior the fish were quite "gaspy" and had visible "whitespots" , After taking them out and placing them in the new QT tank, with in 1 hour the gasping had ceased and the whitespots gone. I was quite amazed, we left his main tank free for fish for 14 days (which is a little short , but because the fish were in a small tank and the NH3+ kept going to high we decided not to leave for 28 days 3 weeks on, no sign of WS, no fish gasping. I have decided to soak all new fish i get in H202 prior to them going into the DT, my friend is stoked, and to top it off no fish deaths !!! I did a small gill biopsy and viewed under the microscope and there were no visible parasites. If the fish weren't in such a bad way to begin with i would have done a small gill clip prior and looked so no real "Science" but i can say it did work, and fast with no side effects. Goodbye copper, hello H202. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted July 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 Well done, I would consider that a win. Time to set up a bath for the leather jackets. Strength of H2O2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gymmynzl Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Well done, I would consider that a win. Time to set up a bath for the leather jackets. Strength of H2O2? I suggest that you get some 35% food grade H020, I used 2.9 mil (3) in 10l of salt water this should make it about 80ppm, I add it to the water give a quick stir and add the fish ASAP, leave them for 30 mins but keep a close eye on them if they start becoming overly stressed take them out. 80pp was tried with out stress on Clowns, damsels, Banghii , blue tangs all tolerated it really well. The research articles have tried up to 300ppm but that had 100% mortality rate, 150ppm had 0 mortality rate but this was on a fairly hardy type of fish. you need a high enough concentration to break through the slime coat on the fish G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gymmynzl Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 I suggest that you get some 35% food grade H020, I used 2.9 mil (3) in 10l of salt water this should make it about 80ppm, I add it to the water give a quick stir and add the fish ASAP, leave them for 30 mins but keep a close eye on them if they start becoming overly stressed take them out. 80pp was tried with out stress on Clowns, damsels, Banghii , blue tangs all tolerated it really well. The research articles have tried up to 300ppm but that had 100% mortality rate, 150ppm had 0 mortality rate but this was on a fairly hardy type of fish. you need a high enough concentration to break through the slime coat on the fish G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Thanks. Have dangerous goods cert. and cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gymmynzl Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Thanks. Have dangerous goods cert. and cabinet. let me know how you get on ? i might have to see if i can hit you up for some nano again the clowns are now big enough to be given to some people / sold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91 ZERO Posted May 3, 2015 Report Share Posted May 3, 2015 Eek, just noticed a few white dots on my Foxface. Nothing else in the tank has any (yet). The net is just over loaded with stuff and I'm confused. This is the deal: * I don't have a Quarantine Tank. I do have an old 40L aquarium, heater, and power head. I don't have a second skimmer. * Water parameters normal. * Have never had white spot in the tank before. We introduced a rose tipped anemone from a friend, and two clown fish from a pet shop a couple months ago. Maybe where it started. We have had the Foxface over a year. After read this, I was thinking: 1. Put warmed salt water and H020 into a bucket and bathe the Foxface in there for 30-45min. 2. Put salt water, heater, and small power head in QT, and leave Foxface in there. 3. Repeat each day with a fresh bath. Questions: 1. Where the heck do you buy food grade H020? 2. Will the Foxface be ok in a tank with no skimmer? 3. Do I have to change the water in the QT everyday? 4. Can the H020 solution be added straight into the main tank instead? - I can vacuum up sand and increase water changes if that will help. Thanks in advance Kris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef Posted May 3, 2015 Report Share Posted May 3, 2015 just leave it alone, might go away, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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